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Economist authors are trying especially hard with puns these days.
Yea they are not bad, but cod do batter.
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This is about herring, not lekkerbekjes / kibbeling :p
Aw you really missed a chance there: you could have deplored their fishing for puns.
HN's comments section can be very carping.
I've always felt that there's a time and a plaice for fishing puns.
Economist authors have always been big on puns and word play. It's one of the newspaper's quirky charms (as is its instance on calling itself a newspaper and not a magazine).
The name itself is also quirky old-timey: 'economist' had a different meaning when they started. (If memory serves right, it meant someone who economises and figuratively what we'd call a fiscal-conservative today.)
Well, the headline rhymes, which is clever, and maybe a bit too on the nose, but...

> "Mr Vollaard’s study has blown the lid off the sealed world of Dutch herring. Fishmongers who long suspected the judge of bias towards Atlantic now say the test is rotten."

No puns there.

> "But the charges of belangenverstrengeling (conflict of interest) have left the test’s reputation for impartiality gutted."

Wait, is the definition of "pun" just that you're using words with a double meaning? Rhyming "funny" in place of the original word isn't the main example of the art?

> "No food is more loved."

Okay, I haven't been to the Netherlands in like 400 years, but I know this isn't true.

-Rotten - both in use for fish and tests

-Blown the lid - Herring comes in caskets

-Gutted - obviously fish-related

Pretty smart writing!

> Gritty tart biting!

^ So to be clear... That wasn't me making a pun, right?

Nope, not in the majority's book - you need to pass a bar of topical cleverness in order to qualify as a pun.

Though, anecdotally, I've seen the type of wordplay you demonstrate referred to as a pun among English speakers in South East Asia. Where do you hail from?

Los Angeles, descended from early 17th century Dutch colonists. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I must admit to feigning confusion about the definition of puns; I was keying into the original commenter's complaint that the author was trying too hard on the pun front. So I quoted examples of what I thought were exemplary wordplay (i.e. not particularly forced puns).

I am totally confused about your comment. What are you quoting? Who wrote "gritty tart biting"? I don't know what the phrase was meant to convey but I wouldn't consider it a pun.
> Okay, I haven't been to the Netherlands in like 400 years, but I know this isn't true.

A hyperbole perhaps, but it is very popular here.

> […]and accompanied with a pickle.

I think that's just in Amsterdam. Chopped onion is pretty much standard though.

I had no idea. Funny, beacause down with onions, long live the pickle.

And I concur : there’s a lot more truth to the supposed popularity of the herring than of, say, clogs or tulips.

Source: born in Amsterdam.

I have taken a longer than minimum layover in Schipol (AMS) just to enjoy the herring at the airport eatery (Happy Fish I think it's called).
> Well, the headline rhymes

How? That does not rhyme at all (unless my english sucks that much).

Come on, you even missed "red herring!"
> Wait, is the definition of "pun" just that you're using words with a double meaning?

Yes, that’s pretty much by definition a pun (though it’s usually required to be topical). For instance, Google gives us:

“a joke exploiting the different possible meanings of a word or the fact that there are words which sound alike but have different meanings.”

Paywalled
Opening in incognito mode works. Sites like these are pushing us to do our entire web experience in incognito mode.
I use Firefox containers for this. They’re not incognito, but they allow opening more articles in my main window.
huh, I did not know that - finally, a use [for me] for them!
Deleting cookies for the site worked for me.
Good lord, the author is having way too much fun with this article.

>Smell them and weep

>herring-tasters of erring

>the Dutch were shocked when accusations surfaced in November that there was something rotten about the national herring test

>Mr Vollaard’s study has blown the lid off the sealed world of Dutch herring.

>Fishmongers [...] now say the test is rotten.

>The judge and Atlantic say they have been smeared, and that the statistical evidence is a red herring.

>But the charges [...] have left the test’s reputation for impartiality gutted.

Par for the course for the Economist.
The British press in general is obsesses with word play.
True, the Economist usually keeps their wit a bit more in the background, like Jane Austen.
There is nothing better than a good pub, especially in not very serious subjects
Also very British.
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When Tom Petty died there was no obit but in the US section the article subheadings were each taken from one of his songs.
The title alone is priceless.
Not mentioned in the article but the winner of this test had an apartment above his store conveniently rented to...you'll never guess...

I don't have a cat anymore so I don't really miss reading newspapers.

> Two who received low ratings have vowed to sue the Algemeen Dagblad for defamation.

Interestingly, that same newspaper (AD) also runs another highly popular test about: oliebollen (fried snack mostly eaten on or just before New Year's eve). Being first (or even top 5) on that test means huge queues (loads of customers).

From what I read about that test it's a blind test. Meaning: the testers do not know where an "oliebol" is from. It's quite strange that there's such a big difference in the setup of these tests.

AD also has a test for fries. No clue how that test is setup (blind test or not). I tried a place they rated a 9 score and it was good, but was NOT worth a 9.

One year, the fries from a place nearby were rated as one of the worst (second to last, if I recall correctly). I always thought they were fine.

We went to try the worst-tested place when we happened to be in the area, and _those_ were genuinely terrible.

I'm also skeptical about how constant the quality of the fries from one place will be. If, as I suspect, there is a large amount of variation over time, this test is useless and more like a lottery.
Not sure why you'd expect that much variation - a good fry shop can make consistent and distinctive frites day after day. I don't know what all goes in to making them like that, but I've experienced it first hand...
The frequency of cooking oil change has a large impact on the taste of the fried food. Some places will keep using the same oil for a few days, only filtering it each day. Fries from a day when the oil is changed could be great while 2 days later they will taste crap.
Last week a woman who sold oliebollen and later discovered it was an undercover customer stepped up to the guy and demanded her goods back because everybody knows these tests are stupid and bring down a lot of hard working people in the name of selling newspapers.
So did the review say "they wouldn't let me try it, presumably because its terrible. 0/10"?
If you want some real fries, come to Belgium cause we invented them. You can literally find one on almost every corner here.
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I like Vlaamse frites (Flemish fries / Belgian fries) including the sour touch. You can get them in The Netherlands as well though amidst the countless of "normal" and French fries stores. They're also very easy to make yourself, even with an airfryer. I like them with green pepper sauce, also easy to make yourself. Dutch stores I can recommend Manneken Pis in Amsterdam center (therefore a bit more expensive) or Reitz in Maastricht at the Markt square.
> In the Netherlands haring must be lightly salted for preservation but otherwise raw, dipped in minced onion and accompanied with a pickle.

For the uninitiated this is the best way to eat them, as it is effectively Dutch sushi.

Opinions differ here. It's said that onions were added to deflect the salty taste, as much salt was used in the old days for preservation. As we now have deep freezers and shipments on ice, there is no or less salt used, so no need for onions. I've also heard stories that onions where added to deflect the smell and taste of old herring in the olden days.

Some people still like it with onions though, but I'd prefer without (and also without pickle)

The pickle is a regional thing. In Rotterdam we eat them just with onion. I was surprised to discover about the pickles when I got one in Amsterdam.
Limburger here. Had no idea that pickles were a thing at all, I also thought it was with onions.
In Amsterdam, Purmerend, and Volendam you'll get the question "ui 'n zuur d'r bij?" [1] in an almost incomprehensible Volendams accent. I got zero credit though; my accent ain't from that region.

Instead of going for the volume deal like 4 for price of 3 I recommend to eat one with bread and water. Else they're too salty and you'll be thirsty or get stomach issues. YMMV.

[1] "onion and sour with it?" where sour means pickles.

Nitpick, but sushi is about the vinegared rice. You can have vegetable sushi. The raw fish is "sashimi".
Something is rotten in the state of Denmark? Hamlet strikes again!