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Hasn't Apple always offered a VESA mount version of the iMac?
They have, and for awhile the link has been more prominent (long ago it was quite well hidden).
It didn’t use to be a separate model. You used to be able to remove the stand from the standard iMac and attach a Apple VESA mount adapter in its place.
I have an older iMac with a 3rd party VESA adapter, which holds the iMac through a circular hole in the back of the original stand. I actually prefer this because the foot of the iMac functions as a little shelf below. I usually set my phone or occasionally an external drive on it. The adapter has the same metal finish so it looks like it could have been an original part.
Would it have been difficult to just have one model with VESA screw holes and a removable stand? Or just not within Apple's aesthetic preferences?
This model in particular has a big focus on the back of it looking good, and vesa mounts are pretty ugly.
With the older models there was actually a way to unclip the base and replace it with a vesa adapter (purchased separately). When they came out with the bulging design with the thin edges they dropped this in favour of a CTO option.

So it's just a continuation of established practice.

It’s a perfectly flat back. Why couldn’t it be four screw holes and nothing else?
Because this is a computer that'll be used as a POS terminal or some place where the first thing you see is the back of the computer.

This is why aesthetics matter, this is why they released multiple colors.

Most of the POS terminals I see are mounted. Presumably that would be the first thing you cover.
I feel like here, the same as with the new Macbook Air (https://www.apple.com/macbook-air/), the 2-3 column website has no place anymore. The 2 right models here are the same except for the SSD size, which you can change anyway in the next step. The CPU can be made easily a choice as well in the tech spec choosing page.

It made sense with different-size screen for example, or when the matrix of incompatible choices could be too complex (e.g. large screen cannot have the smallest SSD), but at this point it feels like things would become a lot better if instead you just had a single product page and picking the specs here.

Wait, iMacs come in different colours now?

That's.... tacky

Maybe you weren't around for the first (bondi), second (rainbow), and third (flower) generations of iMacs? This is heritage.
Honestly a little surprised they’ve been aluminum color so long.

Are these painted or anodized? Those are not anodization colors I’m familiar with, which could in theory be part of why it took a while.

My first mac was a blue first generation iMac. It doesn't mean that I don't think a colour anodized, modern flatscreen isn't tacky.
M1 is superb, but I just bought a second-hand iMac 27” from 2017. 5k display, max 64 GB of ram, 512 GB SSD, etc. Great value for money! Basically you get a good computer with the price of 5k display.
How much is is this second iMac?
The prices may vary depending on specs and country, but here typically around 1000 €.