Can someone comment from a personal experience how justified is the jump from $500 Creality CR10 to $3.5K or even $5K printer that seemingly uses similar principles?
I have never used a multi-thousand dollars printer. I own a CR-10 and a Prusa i3 MK3S+ though.
The CR-10 is fun to tinker with. When everything is in place and the printer is properly tuned, it prints well. My main usage for it is less printing parts I care about and more tinkering and learning about the printer itself though, as it's not very reliable (some are, some aren't - I suspect it's cheap because of poor manufacturing and QC).
The Prusa, on the other hand, rarely requires any maintenance apart from the normal stuff -- checking belt tension, replacing nozzles, cleaning the print bed, etc, and with less frequency ensuring that all screws are tight and doing a bit more deep cleaning. That's it. It prints well every time. It's both a pleasure and a bore, since I can just send stuff to it and it will chug away without intervention.
Their support is stellar as well, and everything they do is open source. Most consumer printers you see around are considered i3 clones (from the original Prusa).
I don't know what a few extra thousand $s will give you. I imagine corporate-level support, etc. For the hobbyist, you can't go wrong with Prusa.
They are now taking pre-orders for a larger, CoreXY printer. I'm trying hard to justify not shelling out for one.
It really is amazing what Josef has done. He’s made FDM printing just work. I own a MK3S+ that I self assembled and in hundreds of hours the worst thing that has happened is the filament getting tangled and crashing the print. I love the dog fooding principle he follows too - his factory in Czech Republic is just an enormous Prusa farm.
This is one person whom I don't mind one bit that he's getting rich (at least I think he is; hell, I hope he is). His money comes from excellent and actually open/free hardware designs and software.
I've used some really low price printers, a prusa and then some 10k ultimaker S5 printer. The low price ones can be hit or miss and may require more maintenance every now and then. They might not print as well as a prusa. I've had a prusa for a good year so far and have had to do no maintenance on it. It's basically set and forget and it prints great everytime. The 10k ultimaker had a few extra features like a humidity controller spool holder (which I don't think did much) and some proprietary nozzles. The 10k printer is very much set and forget but it also can break and error out and you have no idea what is wrong. The proprietary nozzles are like $120 each. I'd say the 10k price tag isn't worth it. I've used it in a university environment and I'd rather the school bought 10 prusas than one 10k ultimaker. That way, we'd have more students using them.
I started on a FF Creator Pro clone, then added an Ender 3, then built (and heavily modified) a SecKit Tank.
I recommend people start with a simple off-the-shelf printer. (Ender 3 on the cheap end, Prusa on the expensive end).
Automatic bed leveling is a huge quality of life improvement IMO (Prusa comes with, can be added to others). Other factors are size, speed, and filament range (temperature range, part cooling, extruder and drive, dual extruders, enclosure, enclosure heating).
I’m a tinkerer and don’t mind modifying printers. If I’m printing a random ABS part, it’s still going on my first printer. If printing a large part, it can only go on the SecKit. For a random PLA part, it’s going on one of the Enders. If I need two filaments (at once), it can only go on the FF, etc.
If you don’t own a printer now, start with an Ender 3 and a PEI spring steel sheet or a Prusa. If you start with the Ender, I’d also add auto bed leveling early on.
If your usage indicates the need for a more expensive printer, it will reveal itself and by the time it does, you can keep the cheaper printer, sell it for 50%, or cannibalize it for parts.
I've used more expensive printers for work (primarily Zortrax), and have owned a cheap Tevo printer and currently own a Prusa. I'm fully of the opinion to just buy a Prusa. FFF/FDM printing is at such a point that there are few performance differences between printers other than speed unless you are printing more exotic materials. More expensive printers aren't any more reliable than the Prusa in my experience, and cheaper printers typically end up as projects to get them printing reliably and safely.
I absolutely love my Prusa i3 MK3S+. I've printed almost 900m of filament since August, almost all of it going into tabletop minis. Sure, you can tell they're printed, but they still look good.
I bought the assembled version because I'm good at losing screws. I immediately made some stupid decisions and factory reset everything. Fallout? Took something like 10 min to fully auto-calibrate and get up and running again. It was magic.
It took some trial and error in the slicer to get the support settings where I wanted, but this thing just pumps out whatever I give it now.
PrusaSlicer is also really awesome. It doesn't do tree supports like Cura, but it auto-fixes pretty much every model related issue on load. A lot of the other slicers I've looked at either don't work on linux or can't deal with model issues from online .stls.
I have a Prusa i3 MK3S+ and am currently building a Voron 2.4. I looked at the Prusa XL, but I’m going with the 350 x 350 Voron Build instead. Mainly for the experience of building one, but also because I wasn’t to impressed with the new Prusa.
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[ 5.1 ms ] story [ 45.6 ms ] threadThe CR-10 is fun to tinker with. When everything is in place and the printer is properly tuned, it prints well. My main usage for it is less printing parts I care about and more tinkering and learning about the printer itself though, as it's not very reliable (some are, some aren't - I suspect it's cheap because of poor manufacturing and QC).
The Prusa, on the other hand, rarely requires any maintenance apart from the normal stuff -- checking belt tension, replacing nozzles, cleaning the print bed, etc, and with less frequency ensuring that all screws are tight and doing a bit more deep cleaning. That's it. It prints well every time. It's both a pleasure and a bore, since I can just send stuff to it and it will chug away without intervention.
Their support is stellar as well, and everything they do is open source. Most consumer printers you see around are considered i3 clones (from the original Prusa).
I don't know what a few extra thousand $s will give you. I imagine corporate-level support, etc. For the hobbyist, you can't go wrong with Prusa.
They are now taking pre-orders for a larger, CoreXY printer. I'm trying hard to justify not shelling out for one.
This is one person whom I don't mind one bit that he's getting rich (at least I think he is; hell, I hope he is). His money comes from excellent and actually open/free hardware designs and software.
He's the kind of hero we need.
I recommend people start with a simple off-the-shelf printer. (Ender 3 on the cheap end, Prusa on the expensive end).
Automatic bed leveling is a huge quality of life improvement IMO (Prusa comes with, can be added to others). Other factors are size, speed, and filament range (temperature range, part cooling, extruder and drive, dual extruders, enclosure, enclosure heating).
I’m a tinkerer and don’t mind modifying printers. If I’m printing a random ABS part, it’s still going on my first printer. If printing a large part, it can only go on the SecKit. For a random PLA part, it’s going on one of the Enders. If I need two filaments (at once), it can only go on the FF, etc.
If you don’t own a printer now, start with an Ender 3 and a PEI spring steel sheet or a Prusa. If you start with the Ender, I’d also add auto bed leveling early on.
If your usage indicates the need for a more expensive printer, it will reveal itself and by the time it does, you can keep the cheaper printer, sell it for 50%, or cannibalize it for parts.
Yeah it's not open source hardware, but attach a Pi to it with OctoPrint, and it's a great low-cost way to get in to 3d printing.
I bought the assembled version because I'm good at losing screws. I immediately made some stupid decisions and factory reset everything. Fallout? Took something like 10 min to fully auto-calibrate and get up and running again. It was magic.
It took some trial and error in the slicer to get the support settings where I wanted, but this thing just pumps out whatever I give it now.
PrusaSlicer is also really awesome. It doesn't do tree supports like Cura, but it auto-fixes pretty much every model related issue on load. A lot of the other slicers I've looked at either don't work on linux or can't deal with model issues from online .stls.