I feel like the biggest hole, companies operating bins claiming that they will recycle clothes while they will send them to third-world country to be landfilled or burned, isn’t addressed in that law.
More good stuff from Europe that I hope will radically change
markets.
Quality is a huge issue. It's changed my shopping habits because it's
often better to simply go without than to buy cheap rubbish that lasts
a week and causes you more inconvenience than if you'd never had it. I
mostly buy vintage things that can be repaired now.
In the UK brands like Marks and Spencer used to make clothes that
lasted. Now they sell the same appallingly made sweatshop stuff. They
still have their famous returns policy, and honour it, but I'd rather
have something that lasts than something I can take back when it
breaks. Guess they have a procurement issue because quality is
uniformly low. Same with cheap electronic goods; pointless locked-down
IoT cruft that cannot be repurposed or fixed and is landfill fodder
straight after unboxing.
We're drowning in cheap manufactured goods whose short lifespan and
overhead (transport and disposal) dwarfs its functional utility.
As much as I share your sentiment, my daughters disagree.
They buy quality handbags, jewellery and jackets, but everything else is a consumable. They do share their clothing amongst each other and a couple of close friends, but otherwise will hardly wear a combination more than once (outside that is).
Here I am, buying all my cloths in 5 fold, since I do not like matching different items.
Lets be honest: your daughters are a victim of the cheap fashion brands and their succesful campaigns to brainwash people into thinking you need to have new clothed every week.
they are victims of social media influencers, who encourage this behavior
unsustainable and wasteful consumption
the reason fast shopping exists, kids can’t afford new fashion item every week, but SHEIN and others make it so cheap and nice looking that makes this behavior possible
Maybe, but the social media influences I've seen are just as much victims as anyone else. The difference is they've embraced it more fully and figured out how to make money off it.
I wonder if consumable fashion is mostly a women's clothes issue??? I see this narrative told often, but I bought a couple pair of carharts and a few pair of jeans, a couple flannel shirts, and own 6 or 7 gildan cotten t-shirts. All of these I have owned more than 3 years and use one or two times a week. The t shirts are also my gym shirts. I have two pair of running shorts that have lost an almost unbelievably long time given the fact that I wear one or the other almost every day.
None of my clothes look like they need replacing anytime soon. Except for socks, which for whatever mystery known but to god periodically vanish. My wife's clothing situation much more resembles your daughters
I'm curious if other men here have cycle through clothes continously, and if so, how?
It's disingenuous to pretend that women aren't way more affected by this, from the material women's clothing is made out of all the way to social factors
I haven't bought a new pair of pants in over five years, the ones I have now have held up rather well. I buy new shirts maybe every year or two. Many of my shirts are over ten years old.
My wife would love to have the same arrangement with her work clothes. I think part of the problem is that women's clothing is made to not be as durable, although I think it could be. Most women would probably be happy to wear a fancy scarf over something basic and call it a day.
There doesn't seem to be a good standard for women's professional work attire that isn't at risk of soon falling out of fashion. Because it isn't 'designed' to last for six months it doesn't.
> I wonder if consumable fashion is mostly a women's clothes issue?
It’s an open secret that it is. It’s less of an issue for men because they are simply less subjected to fashion. Just look at what is considered formal attire for men and women. I can survive at the office with a rotation of three suits and ten shirts. That’s impossible for a woman.
I also think this is not at all a gender-related issue - if any, an age related or a zeitgeist related one.
When there is no more fast fashion, people will just look in their wardrobe instead of shopping site xyz. And instead of "look what I found on xyz", they will say, "look what I found in my wardrobe".
After a short time of friction, this fast-fashion behaviour will be unlearned. Especially if the new situation applies to everyone, so there is no peer pressure going on.
The trend I have seen with clothing brands is most often once they become popular, become a recognized "brand name" - often because of their high quality, good design, and relative affordability. Then the economies of scale "engineers" of business folks start to scale it by reducing costs (less quality control, lower quality materials, etc) to maximize profit per unit sold - milking the brand as quickly as possible to extract as much as they can as soon as they can. This leads towards killing the brand or where it just becomes at par with whatever the status quo ecosystem allows based on environmental costs like mall rental space, etc.
Executives seem to know or are making the bet that brands may not stay popular for long as it may be fad buying and not a sustainable trend, or they simply know they can make more money individually/selfishly if they use these tactics - and hire people who use these tactics; why make $15+ million over 20 years when you maybe could milk a brand to death and get $10+ million in 5 years?
What I wonder is though are there potential pitfalls of this for consumers?
Have they or anyone done a study on cost changes, e.g. will costs increase substantially in short-term but perhaps that is more than made up on the tail end with the durability?
Did they publish a list of known poor quality textiles, I imagine that would include such things as low thread count for the textile and perhaps for stitching as well?
Does this impact certain styles of clothing that say due to their sheer nature?
This happens in other industries as well. Mass-market beer comes to mind. The solution, as I see it, starts with owners demanding long term stability in earnings; and a broader quality over quantity philosophy spreading generally.
This would horrify some friends. But mass market beer is a very predictable and relatively inexpensive product that 95% or whatever of the market likes. I do not and am grateful there are so many alternatives that didn’t exist a few decades ago. But it’s not a low quality just because us beer at least somewhat snobs prefer something different.
No, I mean that they started out with a product and gradually watered it down, as it were. The ingredients being used have changed over the years from natural plants and water into powders and potions that are... chemically similar. The product can still be legally called beer, but it is not the same anymore.
There are a few excellent UK-made brands out there, although it's on the expensive side it's definitely quality stuff that lasts : Mackintosh, Drake's, Barbour (depending on the price range), Sunspel, Private White V.C., John Smedley, Colhay's etc. I'm personally a huge fan of S.E.H Kelly.
And of course there are still the venerable shoe makers of Northampshire which in my opinion remain the best industrial ready-to-wear shoemaking in the world (with a few exceptions, namely Carmina and J.M. Weston) : Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Church's, Grenson etc. I'm myself a regular Crockett & Jones customer as they make the only size + width combination I've found in ready-to-wear that matches my feet really well.
Of course it's a rather militant way of looking at clothing and it's all pretty expensive stuff but :
- Frankly it's affordable if you've got an engineer's comp.
- It keeps its value well on the second-hand market.
But then if someone hears what a pair of Edward Green shoes or SEH Kelly coat costs they’d look at you like you’re insane.
PS my C&J Islays are probably my favourite boots, and I’ve got a ventile raincoat from Private White. Some day I’ll def buy something from SEH Kelly, although most of their stuff might be too warm for Spain.
You've basically got it right when it comes to marking. All the brands I've mentionned, and really all the reputable clothing / shoeing companies, have a production cost that's around 50% of the retail price. Add in all the miscelanous costs and the final margin isn't that high. For the largest of them "marketing" is having a few stores in key areas (London, Paris, NY) and a stall at some events.
If you take that formula and input marketing, you've got luxury companies : great craftsmanship at inflated prices.
In the UK I still think Marks and Spencer (M&S) offer quality clothing at reasonable prices. They don't compete fully with 'fast fashion' prices but they have been affected by competition from other fast fashion retailers by offering their own 'value' lines.
If you avoid the cheapest clothing lines at M&S, their mid-priced clothing is generally of longer-lasting and better quality.
For example, you can buy organic cotton chinos and jeans in the price range £25-35 (approximately $35-45/€30-40). These are reasonable prices given the premium typically charged for organic clothing.
Yep, it is an odd comment because M&S have a relatively good supply chain. I think people assume that if anything breaks, it must have been made in a sweatshop.
In reality, the reason why "fast fashion" exists isn't related to quality at all. You can buy t-shirts that cost £3 that will be as long lasting as anything 10x or 100x the price. I am not sure how people think t-shirts are made, there isn't some hidden secret of durability known only to companies that charge a lot.
The reason "fast fashion" exists is because most retailers provide terrible value for money. Fast fashion charge significantly less for clothes made in the same factory, with the same materials and labour. That is it.
So it is unsurprising this is occurring in Europe: luxury goods manufacturers there successfully lobbied for exemptions from Russian sanctions, they are a formidable lobbying force in Brussels, the aim of this is to stop competition from non-EU manufacturers (particularly from the UK and China). Classic EU. If you can't win, cheat.
If you want to do more about this issue, just improve recycling...that is it. Done.
This is all part of a larger phenomenon I like to call the "Amazon syndrome".
The quality standard for products seems to be incredibly low nowadays. I see people happily buying whatever cheap Chinese junk Amazon dropshippers sell, for a "low" price that's usually 4-5x the price of the exact same item on AliExpress. Reviews are overwhelmingly positive because most people don't care about actual specs or functionality and give 5 stars as long as it's cheap and it works, even when the product is marked up by the dropshipper and leaves a lot to be desired.
Reputable brands that used to make quality products now need to compete on price in a sea of "good enough" garbage, and many of them choose to do so by outsourcing manufacturing to the same Chinese factories that make the no-name stuff. Midrange products disappeared entirely and now the choice is between disposable landfill and ridiculously expensive high-end items.
As someonce in a Reddit thread (?) once said: "The product that retails for $500 costs $5 more to manufacture than the low-end equivalent that sells for $20. If you try to find a middle ground and spend $100, you end up with the $20 product in a nice box."
> Reputable brands that used to make quality products now need to compete on price
I don't think it's just that. Many people (like myself) stopped buying "reputable" brands because they have betrayed their reputation. Nowadays when buying electromechanic devices even when putting 10x the price i have no clue if it's going to last more than 2 years (minimum warranty in EU) and that's a fucking awful problem.
In my view, we need 20+ years warranty (minimum, i personally would argue for 50+) on all products mandated by law, then we can start to see some improvement. This is a public policy problem and as much as i hate the EU institutions they are the only entity i know doing anything about this very serious problem creating tons of waste/pollution.
Quebec, a province in Canada, passed a law a few years back. Essentially, the language states that the product must last "a reasonable period of time" for its usage case. This is the new province wide, legislated warranty.
Buy a washer, are a single man, use it once a week? It breaks in 15 years?
Covered.
Are a family of 8, wash 2x daily, it breaks after manufacture's stated warranty? Probably, not covered.
This helps, because it stops parts that are designed to fail due to time, instead of usage, from destroying the product.
There are a few government agencies which will help you with this too, instead of going to court, by merely a form to fill out.
> Are a family of 8, wash 2x daily, it breaks after manufacture's stated warranty? Probably, not covered.
That sounds fair, until it's not. It's perfectly normal that a washer as a whole fails after 15 years: the thing is the belt is the only part that should fail and it should be easy to replace. Like with IT parts, manufacturers go to great lengths to ensure parts are incompatible with one another and hard to replace.
Most electro-mechanic devices i've seen fail in the past two/three decades were due to electronics: heater thermostat (not the IoT kind, the dumb kind), washing machine program selector (also dumb kind), etc. Likewise in auto industry it was reported that most vehicles being recalled in the past years in USA were due to electronics failing, not mechanics.
I personally find that outrageous and bet everyone would be better off if consumer products had standard bodies mandating use of specific interchangeable parts (like we have for electric/USB sockets or lightbulbs), and if it was illegal to sell hard-to-repair products (no glue breaking the device when you tear it apart).
Mandating a >20y warranty and duty of available spare parts is in my view the path of least effort for regulators: it will significantly raise the overall price of pushing out new incompatible models. Manufacturers would only release a device once every decade once they have achieved some significant efficiency/usability gains, instead of releasing parts-incompatible new designs for bad products every month just to profit. If you add in some standards regulations dictating interoperable formats for specific parts, that would start to look like an eco-friendly user-benefiting regulation.
Of course amateur industry like Pine64 needs to be exempt from such regulations to allow for innovation, but customer devices are a currently a nightmare destroying our planets and ruining our lives and wallets. I applaud Quebec for taking those steps, but they simply won't cut it.
PS: How is IoT even legal? In 99% of cases, it introduces unnecessary complexity and fragility, and in most cases has glaring security concerns.
"It was illegal to sell hard-to-repair products (no glue breaking the device when you tear it apart)."
To please the 'mah free market' types, we shouldn't make it illegal - we should ship broken good back to the manufacturer and have them disasemble the device into pristine materials for perfect recylcing. Breach of recycling laws shiould be a criminal offence - if I litter on the streets, I can literally go to jail, so why is a company above the law in this regard? (and so many others)
It will be so expensive to do, the effect will be the same
As long as everyone is arrested for not recycling I am pleased. So if anyone puts one of these products into the trash rather than mailing them back to the original manufacturer they should be jailed.
Right after we execute whoever invented resign codes, so that I have to check which part of plastic packaging from the super market uses which exact type of plastic, and have to cross-refrence if that plastic is reprocessed by my particular local authority.
After that we have to get the people that get government subsidied for reprocessing, but their reprosessing is to ship our plastic illegally to poor nations where they are dumpled in the ocean
For most consumer appliances, it’s vastly more wasteful and energy intensive to run them for 20 years than to replace them at ten. That’s true for cars, refrigerators, washing machines, and obviously IT.
That’s because energy efficiency does tend to improve.
The lack of appliances that last this long is itself a result of better production: if you have some large number of components, each one must have a 50 year expected lifetime if you want a chance for the machine to work for even a decade.
It’s improvements in precision and knowledge of materials that tightened down the variability for individual components, making it possible to construct something that is likely to survive the decade, then see everything failing at around the same time. Cutting down on over-provisioning in this manner obviously saves resources and costs, as well.
> For most consumer appliances, it’s vastly more wasteful and energy intensive to run them for 20 years than to replace them at ten.
That might be true in terms of CO2 and energy efficiency, although the only sources i've found on the topic gave very opposite results. But no study that i know of accounts for pollution (waste water and polluted surroundings of extraction sites, refinement sites, assembly sites, and "recycling" sites) so i'm tempted to argue that anything we don't manufacture is better for the environment than better efficiency.
> The lack of appliances that last this long is itself a result of better production: if you have some large number of components, each one must have a 50 year expected lifetime if you want a chance for the machine to work for even a decade.
I strongly disagree with this interpretation. First, because industry routinely employs bad parts and bad design on purpose (planned obsolescence, eg. televisions placing heat-sensitive capacitors near heat sources). But also because an individual part failing is in my view OK as long as this part is standard and easy to source.
There are some environmental/logistic concerns if you want to repair old devices given the gazillion incompatible spare parts they each use. But if they all used standard parts, we could and should have repair shops run as a free public service to avoid throwing stuff away. This in itself would do more for the environment than any "green new deal" would ever do.
The mechanism I described isn't one to disagree or agree with. It's math: For <x> even parts with chance of failure on any given day <y> (including some variability <z>), the expected first failure is at some point long before <y>, because
P(no parts fail within the first two years) =
1 - P(<y>)^((number of parts) * (number of days))
Improvements in <z> have a huge impact here, quite obviously.
Sure but its fine for individual parts to fail if the manufacturer will repair/replace that part. Spares of easily user-replaceable parts can even be included with the product, like spare fuses often were.
It's not necessary to achieve zero failures, but it creates incentives for manufactures to use higher quality parts.
I am supportive of setting minimum lifespans for certain classes of products and to expwct manufacturers to be liable for that performance.
it is not the main point but requiring the manufacturers to repair an item after 50 years cannot be done.
the factory that built that refrigerator heat pump from the 70' is unlikely to still be making it.
as of today it would be already a big improvement if the was a law saying: "if a part is no longer produced or sold by the IP owner then it is legal to recreate and sell clones of that part"
> the factory that built that refrigerator heat pump from the 70' is unlikely to still be making it.
Yes but why? Why do we have 400 different models of heat pump for every fridge out there? I can understand that once every decade or so a new tech comes out that's worthy of developing parts from. But even then the new parts could be retrofitted into existing designs.
> "if a part is no longer produced or sold by the IP owner then it is legal to recreate and sell clones of that part"
That would be a huge improvement. What would be an even better improvement would be to abolish so-called IP entirely and to mandate actual durability for all parts sold. Think about lightbulbs: the parts/socket are standard (no IP involved), every factory can produce them, and yet we still have crazy bad durability.
> The mechanism I described isn't one to disagree or agree with.
And yet you failed to account for the embodied energy in building the product and the fact that maintaining any appliance or equipment requires repairs. So there is quite a bit to disagree with.
It is much more wasteful to build a product with no methods of repair, noting that a large number of components will statistically fail due to variability of tolerances or usage patterns.
A 50 yr product requires maintenance, replaceable parts and access to documentation. All of these are lacking in our modern consumer environment. You can blame this on complexity, or designs towards sleekness or what not but the truth is that product failure after a short amount of time (planned obsolescence) creates a reoccurring customer base, and the ability to pass off cheaper parts that don't need to be able to handle removal (glue vs. screws, etc.).
What you provided isn't (just) maths, it's a modelling assertion: that failures are independent from part to part, and independent from day to day.
I'm skeptical about your first assertion -- think of the effect of a power surge. I don't agree with your second assertion at all, from my experience of cheap devices that fail not long after their warranty expires.
> vastly more wasteful and energy intensive to run them for 20 years than to replace them at ten
I recently bought a new washing machine. It is twice as efficient as the old one that broke down irreparably after 12 years.
I chose it by summing machines' cost, and the projected cost of each one's electricity needs going 10 years in the future, if prices go up by 10% per year, and picking the cheapest total one.
The cost of the machine itself ended up being 1149 RON, and the cost of the electricity would be 938 RON, which is almost the cost of the machine entirely.
So it is indeed important to consider efficiency and updating an old machine, and compare with what you have.
As long as the improvement in power efficiency keeps up, it will not make sense to keep an appliance for 50 years. But once that improvement stops, so does the reason for replacing them.
> it’s vastly more wasteful and energy intensive to run them for 20 years than to replace them at ten
I am very skeptical: Washing machine has two functions: Spinning and heating water. heating is 99% efficient, and electric motors are like 95% efficient - where is the improvement coming from? Is is smart features? What do they do, instead of spinning left it spins right?
What about an oven or a kettle, there is no possible improvement, and I bet the shoddily made ones are actualyl less efficient and worse insulated.
This is just the amount of power the washing machine uses while it is on. You need to know the energy required to manufacture all of the components and the duty cycle, to know if it makes sense to replace an appliance for a more efficient one or not.
For example even if my phone charger were to get twice as efficient, it’s drawing very little power, given that it spends most of its time unplugged: it uses a fraction of a watt. That means that I would have to use it for an extremely long time to get near to the amount of energy used to manufacture a new one.
Washing machines pull considerable power and the power scales with the water usage: They use warm water, either from a tap or using a heating element. Heating water is energy intensive, and the hot water quite literally goes down the drain. Current machines use about 50liter per cycle, heating that from 10 to 30 degrees consumes around 1.2kWh, to 60 it’s ~3 kWh. Doubling the amount of water obviously doubles the energy needed. A machine for a small family may see around 100 cycles per year, so the savings are substantial.
This doesn’t take into account the savings in drinkable water which has most likely been through an energy-intensive process as well.
Yet your washing machine does not need drinkable water specifically (can use rainwater), and your stats do not mention the energy/resource cost of manufacturing and shipping a new washing machine.
If you have collective washing machines as a public service running 24/7, the tradeoff may be worth it, but as a general rule it's certainly not the case. Extracting and refining materials for industrial processes consumes millions and millions of m³ of water and a lot of energy.
Our perception as consumers is skewed because the price we pay for electricity/water makes it economically more affordable to us to get newer devices, but from a resource usage perspective, that's certainly not a good deal for the planet. If we paid water/electricity the price that big industries do, we wouldn't even think getting a new device was a reasonable choice.
Washing machines consist mainly of materials that are easily recycled and very economical to do so. Metals, mainly, in a large package. Pure copper in the motor. All of which can be recycled to build a new washing machine.
These are generally firmware updates, no? One could imagine the same chassis, hardware and drive system with only a few modifications to sensors and the control hardware (perhaps even just an update to the microcontroller's firmware) achieving the same output.
What stops a washing machine made in year 2010 from using same amount of water as one made in 2025? Was that water never needed at all?
Did we discover new phisics of washing? Do we have any reason to believe further improvement is possible?
This is a physical process, you can't have infinite improvement - there is a certain minimum amount of water required to dissolve detergent, and it can be easilly calculated.
They don't do much, does anyone have a real explanation without any handwaving?
Have you watched the cycle of a modern front loader versus an old top loader?
The old top loader basically filled up a big tub with hot water and sloshed it around a bit.
Modern front loaders just incrementally add the amount of water needed as determined by weight. Presumably wouldn’t have worked nearly as well with the available detergents of 50 years ago.
First, we should be talking about the next 20 years - after all we are talking about a law we will introduce today, not in the past, and noone it talking about appliances lasting a century.
Secondly, while I never used a top loader, from everything I've read, they are worse in every dimention, so the comparison seems inappropriate - you are introducing extra variables.
Also I am not clear why 'incrementally adding water' was not possible previously, People built a 'smart' toaster 70 years ago, that could sence how cooked your bread is, and it was purely mechanical:
Top loaders are basically an automated version of doing laundry but by hand. A 40-50 year old top loader which is probably what mine would have been today if it had kept working is much much simpler in many respects than a modern front loader. The spin cycle and it’s control is very different. I doubt you could build a modern washing machine with 1970 technology even if you knew what the end goal should be. And you need the right detergent too.
Added: And toasters still do a crap job of figuring out done-ness.
I replaced my washing machine and dryer a year or two ago. I was pretty skeptical that a new set would make any difference, so I held off until it broke.
The new machines are better. I'm not an expert, but I think the biggest differences are: sensors to stop adding water when it isn't necessary, a really powerful spinner in the washer that dries the clothes better, powerful spinner in the dryer. Btw, my washing machine is top load, fwiw.
Oh, and to answer a different question: why didn't we have this stuff years ago? I think, no one cared enough to do it.
Previous improvements are brushless DC motors with VFD, and using less water thus less heat required. Although one can argue that water usage has been similarly MBAified, either across the board, or at least for many crappy models that fail to get the job done.
A possible future improvement could be delayed start that communicates with time of use metering or something, although this would have to be implemented in such a way that the software itself wouldn't turn the machine into a piece of junk in 3 short years (eg libre software).
I suspect there are also many sensor-based improvements that could give machines more intelligent processing, but anyone who has repaired appliances knows that BOM cost rules all. So those would seemingly rely on less time-based manifest-destiny "innovation" and more on designing machines with more value in the first place.
Of course more sensors also equals more parts equals more complexity equals more failure modes. My furnace went mostly out this winter because of what turned out to be an outside temperature sensor which it used to optimize boiler temperature.
Most of this can be tamed with competent software, which libre software can converge on in a way that throwaway proprietary embedded stuff generally does not. For example, failure of your outside temperature sensor should have just resulted in your furnace acting like it was very cold, using a bit more energy and creating a bit larger temperature swing. Furthermore, an alert of the failure through open protocols would allow for lightweight notifications through software you already use, as contrasted with the currently common commercial surveillance rigmarole.
Except the outside sensor was reporting that it was something like 75 degrees F rather than the 20 degrees F it actually was. And the microcontroller was basically going “Why doesn’t the idiot just open a window?” Not sure what the failure mode of a completely dead sensor would be.
Certainly there not necessarily anything wrong with open source controller software but it’s no
Panacea either.
And what surveillance? My heating system isn’t networked at all.
The firmware could see that the value was stuck at a constant, compare your outside temp to a local forecast, see that your internal temp continued to drop, or employ other strategies for determining bad sensor data. There's little incentive for Honeywell to add such functionality (cf the paradigm where you just call a professional who diagnoses your problem), but with libre software it might just scratch someone's itch at which point the functionality would be available to all. Libre software certainly isn't a panacea, but rather seemingly a necessary condition for embedded devices to not get stuck at whatever simplistic version of zip-source-control crapware they're shipped with.
By surveillance I'm referring to what would pass for "remote notifications" of system status (after the possible bad sensor was detected). The IoTrash solution would be to backhaul your system's data to a surveillance cloud, require you to sign up for email spam, install a bespoke app that would spam you with useless notifications, faux-consent to a ridiculous anti-privacy contract, etc. Whereas in the libre world, user-focused incentives are allowed to define functionality and that notification could be a simple single email.
Making the point in general, in order for complex software to not be some terrible black box, it needs to expose its internal state to users who want to see it. Libre software tends to do that (as many users are developers), while non-libre software tends to lock all that up and thus severely limits reliability xor complexity.
I do not want my furnace second guessing the outside temperature based on a potentially unreliable local weather forecast. Yes I would generally prefer to trust verified industrial controller code from the manufacturer that trained service people are familiar with for what’s a critical system in many parts of the world.
Individuals are of course welcome to hack together what they want using Arduinos or whatever.
Again I very deliberately do not have a smart thermostat or other network connections to my heating so no surveillance is going on. I do have network-connected temperature sensor but it’s purely passive.
I honestly don’t know. And honestly for 99% of people being able to look at the code to examine what would happen is irrelevant. In this case the false reading was within basically normal parameters. It was just about 50 degrees too high which meant the house was barely being heated (was about 45 degrees inside) on a very cold day.
The function of the external temperature sensor is so that the furnace can put out a lower amount of (instantaneous) heat when it's less cold out, so that it can operate more efficiently. On cold days, it puts out a larger amount of heat to keep up with the larger heat loss requirements.
I had a similar failure with my hot water boiler, where an older solid state control failed such that when the circulator would kick on the burner would shut off. This allowed it to limp along heating, until a day when it was too cold out and I realized it wasn't keeping up.
re: libre software, my point isn't really about being able to audit the code, but rather about having a cross-device software-maintainer-maintained codebase that users choose to use.
FWIW another, probably better, way to mitigate this particular external temperature sensor failure mode would be a second larger control loop. When the indoor temperature is more than a few degrees below the setpoint (not as a result of a scheduled change), the furnace should be less-efficiently creating a larger amount of heat to get back up to the setpoint quicker. Which is funnily enough how people think most thermostats work when they ineffectively turn it up higher to get things warmer faster.
That's not really addressing the core of my point. Sure, you personally can choose to be conservative and not adopt something promising the world based on "libre". And you probably shouldn't unless you want to tinker. But if it becomes common and shows to be more flexible and reliable, perhaps you will change your view.
I too critically rely on heating. As system complexity increases with things like outside temperature sensors, I would much rather have visibility into their workings than not. In the middle of the night, that could be the difference between a quick ten minute diagnose and override, or waiting some hours for an emergency service call.
While I don't know of any washers/dryers with them, heat pumps can be more than 200% efficient, so there's still potential for improvements there in theory.
Though to be honest I agree with your point. A lot of the low hanging fruit for massive gains in efficiency are gone. It's like cars, going from 10 mpg to 20 mpg is a huge difference. Going from 50 mpg to 60 mpg is a much smaller difference.
It probably is, but diminishing returns could make the difference negligible in the future. I expect cars to be a good example of that, the difference between a 2012 car and a 2022 car emission wise will not be that great.
For gas-only cars this is mostly true, but what if that 2012 car is gas powered and the 2022 is an electric or hybrid? (And compare the efficiency of electric or hybrid cars in 2012 vs in 2022)
Yes and no. Random pick - we have Braun kitchen blender that is running for 15 years, we use it daily, looks like new apart from few small scratches on plastics.
I see no reason to replace it, new stuff doesn't look better, doesn't work better and doesn't last more (probably the opposite). Tons of things are like that. Yes new fridge will save a bit more electricity (compared to already savvy one from 15 years ago) but the amount of energy and material that go into creating new one, and the amount of waste it produces when disposed of, are non-trivial and not handled well even in richest western societies.
I don't agree with 20 years warranty, many things like batteries and capacitors just don't last that long. But some form of longer warranty would definitely motivate manufacturers to focus more on quality.
> I don't agree with 20 years warranty, many things like batteries and capacitors just don't last that long
Some capacitors can last just as long depending on their specs. For batteries, it's more complicated but longer warranty would probably incentivize R&D for durable batteries instead of smaller/stronger batteries, which would be a great win for the environment (see also: supercapacitors).
But the point is most devices are designed to be thrown away, not repaired. If your devices had apparent screws, and easy-to-replace parts, it could be repaired very easily by any skilled laborer (preferably as a public service, but it could also come from a local private workshop). Unfortunately, i don't know a single way to incentivize manufacturers to produce easy-to-repair products apart from extending warranty significantly: when they hold the responsibility to do repair on 100% of units not just the 0.1% people actually care to return (which will likely be replaced not repaired), they may be interested to make stuff easier to repair for everyone else.
I’ve lost faith in the concept of brands. They’ve almost all been MBA’ed.
Hopefully the wheel will turn soon and product people will rule the roost once again. We need some MBA types as well, but there needs to be balance in the force.
> I’ve lost faith in the concept of brands. They’ve almost all been MBA’ed.
This is the first time that I've seen the term "MBA" being verbed (at least with that meaning) and yet I understand exactly what you mean and I fully agree with you. Congratulations if you coined this usage, it's a great way of expressing something for which I was missing a word.
It’s one of the popular tropes that’s repeated here and people use it as a lazy way of assigning blame for a phenomenon they do not understand whatsoever. Something bad happened? Couldn’t have possibly had a good reason for it, must be those MBA types. When Apple (as an example) turns around and produces groundbreaking chips and fantastic computers at an affordable price nobody gives Mr. MBA (Fuqua) Tim Cook credit for business decisions and leadership that enable this.
I’d recommend avoiding this lazy intellectual path because it’s not only incorrect in this context, it perverts your thinking in other contexts as well.
I would not be so quick to regard this as lazy thinking. It's merely shorthand for this idea: product people produce value, "MBA's" turn value into money. Obviously we need both sides.
Tim Cook is an Industrial Engineer with an MBA - a perfect combination. Apple is actually a great example of a company that produces a lot of value and also captures it in the form of dollars.
From this point of view, to be "MBA'ed" is to focus on profit while forgetting about producing value. This then waters down brands that were established on the bedrock of value produced by product people.
The reason this is lazy thinking in my view is because usually it’s not associated with the good (Apple example, nobody goes “dang they really MBA’d the price on that MacBook Pro that I love) and because when something “bad” occurs there’s no understanding or analysis of the situation that lead to the current state. Just a bunch of “that’s bad, must be MBAs screwing me”. You find similar issues with “those Silicon Valley engineers all screwing us and stealing our attention” and other common phrases. The MBA one I think is even less nuanced than the contrived Silicon Valley one.
If we go back to the MBA thing. Well. I have one. I don’t like fast fashion. I wouldn’t want to support it even if it made more money. The degree doesn’t make you do anything, your incentives and who you are as a person are much more powerful. There’s no class on fast fashion (or similar) where MBA students are trained to maximize profit at all costs or not think about sociological impact. At least at Ohio State (Fisher) that was the case in all classes I attended. We spent a lot more time learning about not doing such things and how they are bad for business and society in the long run. My classmates had a lot of empathy. Maybe it’s because like me they were/are regular people just trying to do better.
So I really hate seeing this. To the extent it can happen on an internet board I find it a little offensive and disrespectful. Not a big deal or something just saying if you joined some forum and everybody said all the bad decisions were because of software engineers, well you’d probably at least get tired of hearing about it. Especially when you’re a regular person trying to be nice and do good, value-add work. Idk. Thanks for your comment.
Perhaps you are taking it personally because you have an MBA. It's not meant as a personal attack on literal MBA's. I use the term as shorthand for the people who do the vital work of making a business run efficiently and profitably. When companies focus on that to the exclusion of the actual value-creating, bad things happen. The opposite case is when a startup does not find a market and only focuses on making a product. This, too, fails.
As an investor, I look for companies that do well on both ends of the spectrum.
No, I wouldn’t say I’m taking it personally. My self-worth exists independent of a degree, of which is obtainable by many. What I find disrespectful* is lumping large groups of people in together based on a degree, and then saying “that group is responsible for all the bad decisions”. I have to imagine you can see why this is simply lazy thinking.
Let me give you another contrived example:
“Social media co is found to have withheld information that lead to bad social thing”
“This is what happens when companies become Software Engineered. They lose all focus on the customer and society just to create better algorithms”.
You don’t think that if we just constantly repeated something like this that would be a bad thing and might alienate people? Especially when it’s not true and ignores good things that people have done as well?
What I’ll say is this. It’ll stop being lazy and disrespectful when large groups here also give credit where credit is due instead of only blame without evidence.
* Note that I don’t actually care, I’m never at home offended by something, I’m just commenting on the nature of the action, which I would classify as disrespectful.
The problem with your counter example is that it doesn't recognize prevailing power dynamics. In the vast majority of cases, software engineers, designers, product managers, and other people hands-on in the business of creating commercial software products, are outranked and have less authority than MBAs within their sphere of interaction. Many of us have been forced to be party to terrible decisions made by someone who has focused on an executive career path with no skill-based qualifications, and a deficient moral compass. Very often, these type of individuals happen to have an MBA, and so the stereotype was born. While it certainly isn't fair to tar all individuals with that brush, the short-hand has been earned by the actions of many MBAs over the decades. Whether you agree with that or not, the bottom line is you're simply not going to get much sympathy around here for the plight of the poor maligned MBA.
You are just doubling down on intellectual laziness and stereotypes which I thought we were supposed to disregard.
I guess those Silicon Valley software engineers have earned the title of bad actors with all the addicting software they write! There isn’t much sympathy around here for the plight of the poor maligned Software Engineer. After all you make a killing ruining people’s lives and destroying their ability to interact with their community with your addicting algorithms and your advertisements. You wait until a company relies on your cloud software or tools and then you raise the price just to squeeze every last drop of revenue. You have no moral compass and if you did, you wouldn’t build this stuff. I mean all you care about is career advancement. Build and ship a product and then move on before it gets shut down for not being viable. Skills? Hardly. You run easy pipelines and use software tools only you can afford to invest in to make you feel super productive while you ruin people’s lives. All in the name of getting enough “I shipped that” to put you on the executive CTO track before you dump dog shit companies on public equity markets. *
Same song different dance. Not buying it.
* I don’t actually believe this, nor do I believe similar lazy comments about any degree or profession because they are dumb and lazy intellectual positions.
> I guess those Silicon Valley software engineers have earned the title of bad actors with all the addicting software they write
You know, as someone supposed to be targeted here, I would agree, we need to take more personal and collective responsibility in what work we accept to do. This is a problem of culture. It's fair to point us out as a group when it's this systemic. Even if it's a small portion of people who are actually part of the problematic situations, the majority still accepts it for what it is, seniors will happily hire engineers without moral compass, FB and Palantir engineers working on destructive stuff still have a lot of street cred.
Of course it's frustrating being lumped together with the bad ones. And there's little you can do as an individual when you're outnumbered or outpowered. But those who can should do what they can to do good and not participate in the bad.
That aside, would it be fair to say you have an issue with that they scope the tribe/group they're accusing completely wrong? That MBAs are just a caricature if the people they're actually talking about, some of whom don't have an MBA and many MBAs are not those people? If so, agreed, it's a lazy and unfair one.
> That aside, would it be fair to say you have an issue with that they scope the tribe/group they're accusing completely wrong? That MBAs are just a caricature if the people they're actually talking about, some of whom don't have an MBA and many MBAs are not those people? If so, agreed, it's a lazy and unfair one.
Yes, generally speaking, I’d agree with that. I simply take issue with that actual espoused sentiment that “if something bad happens it must be an MBA type” and if at the same company something good happens said MBA type couldn’t possibly deserve credit.
> You know, as someone supposed to be targeted here, I would agree, we need to take more personal and collective responsibility in what work we accept to do.
I agree too. But I would also say in a similar vein it wouldn’t be fair to go around and say “those software engineering types” as a response ya know?
> “This is what happens when companies become Software Engineered"
But... people do use a very similar term, overengineered. Quite appropriately. You are absolutely allowed, encouraged, to call out someone specifying a product to the nines because they can. See Juicero, I'd argue Peloton, a.. decent proportion of products that involve Heroku or Kubernetes.
But so are engineers allowed to call out someone playing financial find-the-lady to obscure what they're really doing: using trust relationships built over decades, if not centuries, to fuck over customers.
Would another spin on this be: if the connotation of MBA includes "bad" in it, then applying this label to bad stuff is tautological and doesn't add information?
Here's another example: made in China has a connotation of cheap and low quality, despite the fact that the iPhone and all the other high quality electronic products are made in China too. But if someone says "made in china" we know they're referring to the cheap stuff.
> At least at Ohio State (Fisher) that was the case in all classes I attended. We spent a lot more time learning about not doing such things and how they are bad for business and society in the long run.
Well that's good that you were in a humane class ; from the people i know in France who received "MBA"-like education, it sounds like the exception, though. Are you familiar with critiques of neoliberal micromanagement, or as David Graeber's put it manageurial feudalism? How else would you explain the rise of bureaucracy ruling even non-profits (!) and ruining everything for everyone who cares about what they do?
> My classmates had a lot of empathy. Maybe it’s because like me they were/are regular people just trying to do better.
Cool, but how can you change the system by following its own rules? Do you feel that as an MBA working in a company you can go against the stream of anti-social control-based measures? I know as a random worker it doesn't work (which is why we have unions and cooperatives) but maybe you have a different perspective to share.
> Not a big deal or something just saying if you joined some forum and everybody said all the bad decisions were because of software engineers, well you’d probably at least get tired of hearing about it.
Well, the thing is as a class both we software people and you business people are ruining the lives of literally billions of people. So we're bound to get some resentment. Still, as Nabil Hassein points out in his talk "Computing, Climate Change, and All our Relationships", it's very mild. (paraphrasing) Given the evil we do to society as a whole, and the fate that's usually reserved to collaborators of oppressive regimes, angry messages on forums and stoning Silicon Valley buses is just the beginning and we should be very careful whose side of the barricade we are on when the revolution does come. I strongly recommend to watch the rest of the talk :)
Isn't it ironic that this comment thread was originally about devices not lasting long enough and you bring up Apple, who purposefully crippled old phones and created AirPods to generate enormous amounts of e-waste, as an example of MBA types doing a good thing?
Have you actually looked at the competition and see how long android phones last and/are maintained?
Apple also has a pretty accessible recycling program but more importantly Apple products hold their value more, leading to a pretty good used market. No doubt this is bolstered by Apple’s fairly generous global warranty policy that is also transferrable.
Btw the “crippling” you referred to was apple throttling phones so weakened batteries were able to supply enough voltage to prevent the phone from randomly shutting off. It was not some secret attempt to blanket slow down old phones. If you replaced old batteries the problem would not happened. It was just bad communication and built up sentiment that old phones kept getting slower with each new update.
> Have you actually looked at the competition and see how long android phones last and/are maintained?
Yes the Fairphone are doing well thank you. Very easy to tear apart, setup the system of your choice, and find replacement parts for.
> Apple products hold their value more, leading to a pretty good used market.
What does that mean? Money is just imaginary numbers. A phone is a phone: either it works good or it doesn't, how much and why it's valued by people brainwashed into a commercial cult [0] matters little in the equation.
> No doubt this is bolstered by Apple’s fairly generous global warranty policy that is also transferrable.
Kudos for them to respect the law. Although i must point out that for some years, at least in France, they were obviously breaking EU laws by saying their phones had only 1y warranty (2y minimum by law) and selling people "upgrades" to get the 2 years.
> It was not some secret attempt to blanket slow down old phones. If you replaced old batteries the problem would not happened.
Do you have a source for this? It's the first time i hear that explanation, and it certainly was not put forward by Apple in their update log at the time (suggesting malice). Also worth noting that Apple makes it harder than it should to crack your phone open to replace the battery, so i don't think that's a strong argument in their defense.
Transferrable warranties are very much not the law in the US. This, along with a healthy used/refurbished market mean that old devices stay in use longer. The saying is reduce, reuse, and THEN recycle. But the impact in reduce and reuse is much better than recycling.
I’m not sure what you mean “a phone just works or it doesn’t.” I’ve never heard of the Fairphone but I’m sure if it has good usability it would be catching on. I had in fact switched to Android for a year before and went back to iPhone after countless both hardware and software based quality issues.
Apple is not a religion, at least it does not affect me in that way. While I use a macbook and iPhone, I am fairly against their other products (like unnecessary icloud usage, apple watch).
If anything it sounds more like users of esoteric android feature phones (where the feature is some arbitrary definition of sustainability) is under some cult or religion.
If you look at mass market phones with actual market share, Apple does way better on the sustainability side by simply *keeping old phones usable.” If you want to be sustainable reduce first. Then reuse. An old iphone being resold or handed down is by definition made out of 100% recycled parts.
Ad-hoc verbing of nouns is a normal feature of the English language (at least in casual usage), it doesn’t necessarily mean that a term is being coined or has been coined.
I don’t know when I learned it, but I’ve looked it up a few times to be sure I’m not day dreaming; after the WW2, declassified propaganda research became the basis for ad and marketing programs in university.
It’s always been about establishing a mood and inserting a meme to go with it. Maybe that’s “gotten worse” as we whittle stats looking for growth. I think people are just aware of what’s always been true.
Somewhere along the way it became blind allegiance to a certain kind of agency, like a religion. We’re all busy FOMOing, being ourselves, like the Sprite commercials told us, we miss that we’re just shuffling along the same old routine as dad and grandpa, feeling too unique to be required to grow a potato or sew a pillow.
I want to say it was during college years which for me was mid 90s. My focus latched onto anything I could apply elastic structures to; advertising/marketing and it’s effects on economics.
Circling high minded wisdom isn’t new. Tribal chieftains, god kings, preachers, now the nerds promising human longevity and prosperity for all-time to come… if we all just follow this model, it’s ours for the taking! Not so new.
I’m still waiting to be impressed.
Onward with the next generation rug pull. They got pensions in the 80-90s. It was reported Trump and co were looking into leveraging 401ks for gambling, but they used covid to hand over stacks of cash without question to leverage the average workers debtors prison they find themselves in.
There's already a law that covers it. IANAL but my here's my understanding of things:
When you buy something in the UK/Europe, anything really, it needs to meet 3 criteria[0]:
1. Fit for purpose: i.e. if it says "running shoes", then shoes should be suitable for running. If you use them to hammer nails, then it's on you.
2. As described: match the description, model number, etc
3. Satisfactory quality: this is the key ... and it depends on the product, but generally it relies on common sense. i.e. if you bought a washing machine for 2000EUR, you can expect it to last, let's say, 20 years of regular family use... If you bought a 2nd hand washing machine for 50EUR, probably can't expect it to last more than a year...
The problem is not with the law, but generally speaking, companies don't give a toss. Nobody's going to fine them... And worse, consumers are easily misled by warranty periods and just don't expect the protection. Even if they paid 2000EUR for a washing machine and it failed after 2 years, they are more likely to just get a new one. Even if legally they can require the retailer (not even the manufacturer) to replace or repair it because the product wasn't of sufficient quality. The burden of proof is usually on the consumer though, which kinda makes it harder though.
I'm not a lawyer, but is non-transferrable warranties even a thing? I've never had a single product where they asked me for identity to use the warranty. At worst, they asked for a proof of purchase, which some second-hand sellers are happy to provide when they still have it.
Also worth noting: hardware manufacturers have found a better option to suppress the second hand market. Hardware locking (iCloud/Knox lock) is terribly efficient at this, essentially turning perfectly good devices into bricks. It's even "better" because they can advertise it as a security feature for gullible users who don't realize Apple/Samsung still has the master key and there's an entire corrupt grey market of company workers getting money under the table to defeat the lock in almost every phone store across the planet...
Yes, many product segments have non-transferrable warranties. NVIDIA warranties are non-transferrable, as are Herman Miller warranties. That being said, you can have the original purchaser make the claim for you or you can pose as the original purchaser/doctor the receipts, but it creates a big hurdle for secondary markets.
I don't understand what you mean by iCloud/Knox lock. As far as iCloud lock is concerned, it is only for stolen devices in which the owner did not deactivate their own icloud account. Where are your sources for gray market of company workers defeating the lock? I'd imagine if an Apple activation lock is bypassed it would have to do with resetting the password on the iCloud account.
One of the big issues in clothing and related is mostly market dynamics. The market used to be full of relatively niche brands (and stores) that sold genuinely differentiated, often higher quality, and typically somewhat more expensive clothing etc.
Over time, a lot of those companies got bought out by conglomerates and started selling the same Asian-made stuff as everyone else (for the most part; there can still be differences. Premium brands often manufacture in Asia as well).
It’s harder to charge a big premium for random clothing and soft goods. To pick a random example Lands’ End is a case in point.
From my experience over the past 15 years, most electronics that were high quality and high price remained the same, however the cheaper alternatives have gone up in quality by a lot.
Imo, the midrange is still there. However the number of manufacturers have gone way up and it's really hard to find something that's quality.
You can't just look at the brand name, which seems to have become a worthless concept, companies will sell their name (and long term reputation) for pennies.
You need to look at the hardware itself and know some basics about what makes it good and what not. The vast majority of people can't do that.
Over time I found myself thinking "I gotta get a new one" more often than "I need to fix it" because there's an abundance of stuff.
One of the tricky things is that the best of those low and midrange suppliers, particularly in the electronics space, are selling things that look visually similar to the cheap stuff. They're just better.
For example, if you go to buy a microphone arm, you're going to see three segments. There's the bottom tier of exposed hinges and tension springs, then there's the two-bar articulating models, and then at the top there's the unibody hinged ones from Blue, Rode, etc. which are surely nice but also a lot more expensive for not much more. Companies like Samson and Neewer sell into the bottom two categories. But even if you buy the bottom-tier mic arms, if you buy one from Neewer and buy one from another brand you'll immediately see that they look the same but the Neewer one works a lot better: better tension to hold the mic in place, ever-so-slightly better (and more pleasant to use) tightening knobs, that sort of thing. They can't be spending more than an extra fifty cents on the product but it works so much better that I preferentially buy from those brands even though it's still "cheap". And then you get into those midrange models, which for my money compete very favorably with the expensive stuff while being half the cost.
Neewer also sells camera type stuff and I'd agree with your overall assessment. It looks like the really cheap stuff but tends to be 'not bad' as far as fit/finish (as you point out, it's the knobs! Amazing what a (possibly metaphorical) extra decimal point of precision can get you.
Yeah, totally. Half my C-stands are Neewer, they're indistinguishable from more expensive. GVM is another example--they seem to pull nearly the same designs for their lights as Neewer.
I was trying to buy a Flexi brand dog lead on Amazon yesterday, and despite my search including the brand name, and me filtering the results by brand "Flexi", more than half the results were sponsored listings for Chinese knockoffs that people are drop-shipping from Ali. I gave up and went to a shop.
Not quite 5x, but if you try to buy a HDMI cable off aliexpress, it takes about 2 months to get here. It's about half the price of similar length cable on amazon.
I needed a way to charge multiple Nintendo Switch Joycons for the kids. On Amazon the charger was around $20. On AliExpress the same exact charger was $3. I wasn’t in a rush so I paid the $3 and it arrived in a little over a month.
They will ship much faster if you pay for e.g. DHL but this is cost prohibitive for most people unless ordering in bulk. But yes, it’s totally rational to pay a premium to get parts in 2 days versus 5 weeks.
> This is all part of a larger phenomenon I like to call the "Amazon syndrome".
Say what you like about Amazon, but their no-quibble returns policy is second to none, even in places like Europe that have high-levels of consumer protection enshrined in law.
From my own personal experience:
Amazon: Bought an IT component on Amazon (sold by third-party, not "sold by Amazon"). Item that arrived was not as described (lower spec than promised). Filed a return on Amazon, Amazon paid for the return shipment and refunded me as soon as the courier scanned the collection barcode.
Third-party: Bought a new PC from a reputable reseller (with whom I'd dealt with before occasionally over the years). PC arrived, hardware was OK but the BIOS was completely FUBAR (corrupted beyond salvage). Requested a return and a refund. Despite consumer law being strong in my country, the seller made it so painful and was dragging out the process so much (no doubt so they could push me past the consumer law deadline) that I gave up. I now have an expensive doorstop that is completely unusable.
I still buy from third-parties, but generally only low-risk stuff or higher-risk if I've got recent prior really good experience (or if there's no choice, e.g. things that have to be bought from "authorised resellers"). Otherwise for random stuff, if Amazon stock it and its not outrageously above the going price, I'll just buy it on Amazon for the peace of mind.
Buy from large EU eshops like Alza (if it operates wherever you are, or the local alternative) - much better experience even than Amazon, in all things considered.
Amazon judges how quickly/whether to issue a return based on an algorithm weighted by your lifetime total value. If you shop a lot on Amazon, occasionally returning an item will be 0 hassle for you. If you don't shop on Amazon that often and get unlucky, they will hassle you about the return (you can google this for confirmation). Prime customers are also generally treated much better, obviously because they have a much higher LTV. That third-party seller probably gave you so much grief about the return because their sales volume is much lower, so individual returns cost them a much more significant % of their revenue.
Also, easy returns doesn't mean the items are being reused/the process is good for the environment. Industry surveys show around 25% of returns wind up in a landfill, and this number varies greatly based on what the item is - clothes are thrown away much more often.
Basically, Amazon and other high-volume low-quality retailers simply sell so many products at so high a markup that they can absorb the cost of throwing away some XX% of the products that get returned as a cost of doing business.
> This is all part of a larger phenomenon I like to call the "Amazon syndrome".
You can validly blame Amazon for a lot of things, but the embrace of Chinese Chabuduo culture isn’t one of them. That is an international trade issue, which is to say a political responsibility of the federal government in the USA and evidently the EU in Europe.
The last thing I bought that fits this description was a new pair of ski goggles. The cheap $20 Chinese ones work great as far as I can tell. The local stores start at around $150. Am I missing something? I had a lot of fun with the $130 of easy money.
There's some things that the $150 goggles might have that the cheap ones don't (anti-fogging, UV protection, durability etc). Or they're just marked up, who knows.
Presumably the brand name goggles are made by the same brands that sell $150 sunglasses. Are there differences? Probably. But they’ll probably also still fog at least based on my past experience. Maybe they’re better these days.
How do you know the Chinese ones provide you with UV protection? Eyewear is one of the things I won't buy online because I don't trust the online stores to check that their stock meets regulations.
What you are describing is what has happend to almost all markets which are primarily price sensitive over time; you end up with a bifurcation of quality such that there isn't a "middle" anomoyre. Another example is groceries (specifically, meat). You used to have almost an even distribution of meat quality, from the cheapest garbage, to fairly affordable and quality, up to the extremely high quality pampered stuff. You used to have independent butcher shops all over the place who could survive in the middle. Then, people got price concious and super markets sprang up, putting huge price pressure. Ultimately, in many areas you now only have one option, which is the cheapest possible meat produced in the worst possible conditions (slaughtered in the US, shipped to China for processing, shipped back. Really.), and maybe if you're lucky, you have access to extremely expensive gourmet meats costing 20X+ as much, with nearly nothing in-between.
Adding an example to this after reading down the front page more: Smart TVs are the same; you either get garbage which shows you ads, or you have to pay 10x more for a normal panel.
To be fair, at least in EU, there are many cases from my experience when buying the same item from Amazon was actually cheaper than on Aliexpress. Plus 1-2 days shipping. It's always worth to check the item in several places.
There are smaller brands that try to be and are a lot better. They deserve attention.
Trippen shoes from Germany make comfortable shoes that aren’t exactly main stream, but are repairable and used to offer a very reasonable refurbishment price (haven’t refurbished any for a bit). I have several pairs of 20+ years old shoes from them.
Nudie jeans offer free repairs at their shops and 10+% discount for new jeans if they are not repairable, as trade-in. If you trade in, and they are usable, they sell as second hand.
You can just buy any Goodyear (or Blake) welted shoe to have rebuildable shoes, there are dozens of makers that offer more uh… conventional and mainstream styles of shoes anywhere from $200-$2500.
England: Loake, Alfred Sargent, C&J, Trickers, Church’s, Edward Green, Saint Crispins, John Lobb
US: Allen Edmonds, Alden, Rancourt, Red Wing, White’s, Nick’s, Grant Stone
They'll not only repair their clothes for free, even if you've been careless and damaged it yourself, but also you can pay them to repair other brands in their shop.
I see this line every so often that Patagonia will repair or replace damaged articles, but the one time I tried, I wasn't successful. I purchased a Tortentshell rain jacket and the laminate on the top of the hood started to peel after a year or so. I took it to a Patagonia store for inspection and they offered to recycle it for me. No repair, no free replacement, no offer of a discount on a replacement.
Same. My dog sliced open the sleeve, and I was about to stitch a crappy fix myself until I saw their policy when googling. Got it back and looks good as new. I’m picky and I was fairly impressed.
I wonder if this is a function of you bringing the item to a store. I contacted Patagonia online with a picture of the damage when I ripped my jacket on my chicken coop, and they had me send it in for a patch and restuff.
It's also possible that the type of damage to your gear (peeling laminate) was not repairable, but I would have at least expected a replacement.
Mizora [1] is a boutique Japanese brand producing woman's nightware out of recycled Kimono (silk) or Tencel. I purchased some for my partner, she loves them.
I thought it was such a cool concept. Everything is handmade to order, seems really well made.
Ironically I was discussing my nudie jeans 30 minutes ago. Which makes this comment feel weird.
Nudie Jeans definitely honours their repair policy, but what I find is that their jeans wear much faster than others (Deisel Jeans being the most hard-wearing so far).
At some point your jeans look so janky from all the repairs (and they become uncomfortable as the crotch are gets patched and becomes double the thickness) that the utility, fit, comfort and look of the jeans is terrible, to the point where you probably don't want to wear them.
I have 5 pairs of nudie jeans, they all end up like this.
--
When it comes to Shoes I recommend R.M.Williams. I have a pair of their garden shoes, i have worn them every single day for the last year and they look almost new (save a few creases where my feet bend), they're also repairable and have passed many teardowns. https://www.rmwilliams.com.au/
The trouble with Levi's is that when you buy, say, a pair of 501s, there are a bunch of things that factor into what you're getting. Bought them on eBay for a good deal? Solid chance they're counterfeit. Bought them at WalMart or Target? You're getting a variant that was manufactured for downmarket, price-sensitive consumers - thinner denim, cheaper manufacturing. Is it stretch denim, or 100% cotton? Shrink to fit? Levi's Premium? Or maybe you're splurging for something from the Made & Crafted line. Or if you're really looking to spend on Levi's, you've bought something from the Levi's Vintage Clothing line. (In the US, you can still sometimes find LVC and Made & Crafted items at TJ Maxx and Marshalls for a tenth of their retail price) Sometimes the fit is inconsistent, but if you buy from levi.com, you get free returns if you have an account with them, or if you can drop them off at a nearby Levi's store.
And that's just Levi's... I don't have the time or the energy to bother with the kind of denim fanaticism that blew up over the last decade or so.
Before they IPO'd, my trick to long-lasting Levi's was to wait until whatever seasonal collection they had with 'toughness' in mind went on sale or blowout, because they used to experiment more with fabrics. I've got a pair of 501s made with Dyneema, the stuff they make ropes for ships out of. The Skateboard line was marketed as being able to take more abuse than normal, and so far has lived up to that. For better or for worse, they've simplified their product line a lot since being publicly traded.
And if you want to get real weird, the other thing that I found helps is... that's right, not washing my jeans every time I wear them. There are exceptions, but I work from home, I'm generally not doing much to stink up my jeans. I have a rolling rack that I keep 10 pairs of jeans on, and I cycle through them, so that at the very most, any pair gets worn once every week and a half.
Anyway... I haven't had to buy new jeans in a long time, and I switched over to all-Levi's years ago - but It took a little trial and error to get a lay of the land.
The problem I have is that I have burned through many pairs of Levi’s in under a year of use for each pair. I’m not sure how long they’re supposed to last but that is my experience.
I don’t was my jeans, I wear them a couple days a week and let them sit for the other few days. I wash them about every 2 months (though washing does take a noticeable toll).
I’m not sure the “no true Levi’s” can apply to me however; I bought them from the official Levi’s store in Malmö.
Huh! Well, the other factors I can think of are body chemistry, and what you use to wash your clothes. I've got Levi's that are over a decade old, but the sweat from my wrists will erode the edge off a Macbook Pro in a couple of years. You win some, you lose some
Two brands that deserve a shoutout in this vein are Filson and Freitag. I have an Alaskan Guide shirt from Filson that's still in rotation after 25+ years.
My Freitag bag will no doubt outlast me. It's made from repurposed truck tarps and seat belts. Both companies will repair their products.
Timberland suckered me with their sustainable-fairtrade-robust vibe. I have never seen a pair of trousers disintegrate so fast in the wash, or a pair of jeans wear though at the knees so rapidly.
Fashion changes fast and therefore does it make sense to sell more expensive clothes that last? Many people want what is fashionable this season, not wear the same things for years.
In terms of environmental impact and use of resources I suspect that there is a sweet spot between not lasting at all and very long lasting (like there probably is for appliances and about everything else that people will replace after x months/years anyway) Likewise, "fixable" may incur overheads that actually negate the a priori benefit.
The trouble is not only finding quality goods now, its that once you do they are way more expensive than they used to be since they now serve a smaller market. Not only are they trying to stay afloat with a smaller customer base, they're losing some of the economies of scale, so prices go up or quality goes down.
I once went to a cloth repair shop and asked what brand was better for long term. “None”, they said, “all of them are equally bad nowadays“. So no chance much to make it work over the market it seems.
I provided ecommerce services for a wide variety of U.K. and European fashion brands from 2006-2016, and one thing that always stood out was that about 10% of the customers of each brand would make up >50% of the revenue - be it shoes, garments, or accessories. This applied across other verticals, too, but in fashion the concentration was far more pronounced.
The reason these customers had a higher per capita revenue was that they bought something pretty much every week of the year.
The thing is, this kind of behaviour is akin to addiction - I recall in more than a few cases concerned partners or parents requesting intervention, and blocking or limiting of accounts - it was up to the retailer how they handled that - we just heard about the ones where they wanted us to do something.
So - clamping down on fast fashion is no bad thing, however it addresses a symptom rather than a root cause, which is principally addictive shopping behaviours bought about by saturated and predatory marketing and depressed populations seeking solace in that momentary rush of dopamine when they hit purchase, waiting for a parcel to arrive like an addict waiting for a fix.
I mean, hell, I’ve lived the behaviour. Never to the extremes that I’ve seen, but compulsive consumption is an easy if temporary quick fix for a hole in the soul. Fashion is the pinnacle of this, as it gives you not just the purchase rush, but the potential esteem boost from wearing your new garments.
The problem remains elsewhere, and more fundamental.
It isn’t, by any means, but it’s almost as concentrated in fashion as it is in gambling - you tend to have a fatter long tail and smaller ramp for other verticals. Shoes are the most “Pareto” category in consumer goods that I’ve seen. There are entire brands being propped up by a hard core who spend tens of thousands a year each on shoes.
I don't disagree, but it's not an exclusive choice: we can treat the symptom AND we can treat the cause, as separate items. Particularly because the latter is difficult, very individual in nature, and without easy solution.
> principally addictive shopping behaviours bought about by saturated and predatory marketing and depressed populations seeking solace in that momentary rush of dopamine when they hit purchase, waiting for a parcel to arrive like an addict waiting for a fix.
Some of us just like looking good and having variety of clothes o.O.
For the last ten years I have been anticipating that Europe would become the Switzerland of the world, at a larger scale. For the worth and better. Sustainability is a big part of it and this kind of move as well as the platforms regulation give me hope.
I know Europe is not the only place with free healthcare, but, at least for me, free healthcare comes above [everything else].
Yeah sure, you can get insurance in other countries, but there WILL ALWAYS BE fine print, some random procedure and you're not covered, or out of pocket expense, etc.
With free healthcare, there's no fine print, everything from a allergic reaction, to neurosurgery the cost will always be 0 no matter what.
> Horribly expensive, centered on financial services, great for hiding money and impossible to immigrate too?
Yes, no, not anymore, no.
And even those costs are relative - sometimes when I travel I end up in places which are definitely not cheaper. And that's coming from somebody living in 1 of 2 most expensive spots within Suisse. Some more rural places are cheaper to live in than most big European cities.
The only way the EU will survive is if it becomes a federation. Limited federal government that takes care of specific areas, like central bank, military, diplomacy. And leaves all other responsibilities to small states, like the US (or rather like the US was). Instead we have a EU that wants to micro manage every single problem (like fashion in this example), and large states that are not ready to give up any more sovereignty.
Nowadays most Levi's jeans are just stuff made in cheap labour countries with poor cloth. I think they still made some selvedge jeans in the US under their Made & Crafted label. If you want good Made in the US jeans, look at Gustin. But nowadays the most renown manufacturers are Japanese, like Momotaro.
Unless substantial price increase, I don't see this changing behavior much. Third world landfills will have slightly more durable textiles with better stitching.
It will also mean a healthier used market with modern garments that will last years and years.
New cars are disproportionately expensive too. Shrugs. I think it's okay that not everyone can afford everything new, as long as they can afford enough to not be further disadvantaged.
There's a facetiousness to your reply that really doesn't help the discussion. My response requires thinking about clothes in a different way, but that's the sort of thinking we all need to engage with.
Since the 50s we've seen races to the bottom with clothes, homeware, furniture. It's all lovely shiny and new and when we've decided we need to change it, we burn or throw into a hole in the ground. Fashion has invented its own mechanisms and sub-industry to make sure things aren't just disposable, but that people want to throw them away. It's disgusting.
We don't do that with cars. We demand that cars are serviceable. Older cars doesn't carry stigma (unless they're clapped out). We need to start demanding the same from everything we buy.
First, this will revive the second-hand market, which is where you got clothes for cheap in the past.
Second, The absolute price for a clothing item is not really relevant without considering its lifespan.
A metric of sorts "square meter of fabric per year" per capita would be more useful, and the super cheap clothes don't look good at all here. Even poor people will not wear a super cheap shirt for years, when other people throw it away after 2 weeks.
> Second, The absolute price for a clothing item is not really relevant without considering its lifespan.
With the exception of children's clothes. These unfortunately get hit with all issues: 1. Kids are more active and will stain/tear them more often than adults. 2. They grow out quickly, limiting initial lifespan. 3. Due to point 1, it's hard to resell things past the baby stage.
A significant portion of kids inherit clothes from their older siblings when I grew up, and I still see it happening today. If clothes are more durable more items will survive to be inherited or re-sold.
Also, second-hand markets here are already large and could become even larger. Searching for "used kids clothes" on Ebay shows 350k results.
I agree and should've phrased it better - there's a second hand market, but it would be significantly larger since the kids clothes get more damaged than adult.
The best part is giving them away to friends and family, if they have kids few years younger it tends to work well for the higher quality clothes. Higher quality materials (and seams) does help preserving them too.
> Why would the law prohibit me from buying a $1 shirt that lasts 1 week and instead buy a $50 shirt that lasts a year?
Because society has to bear the cost of the environmental degredation of manufacturing and disposing of that $1 shirt. The price signal doesn't include the externalities.
This an extremely obvious side effect and this regulation will directly and very negatively affect the quality of life of Europe's poorest citizens. I'm glad you brought it up.
I guess the major issue with 'plastics' is that they are wildly different. Polyethylene (PE, LDPE - plastic bags, HDPE - pipes], Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene - ABS [Lego, cheap tools shell], and polycarbonate (PC plexiglass, quality tools] would be pretty much the same (just plastic) for most people. Yet, even sorting them is expensive, then the quality and degradation of the source material is unknown, so recycling them for new products is not very feasible.
You can talk it down if you want, it is easy, did that for years. I like that they are doing something that makes them earn less but has a positive effect. Cotton production needs huge amount of water. Would it be better to burn or throw those jeans in a landfill? Got some sweaters by [0]. The label says how many PET-bottles got recycled for it.
At least how I learned about it was the fast turnaround from design to store to capitalize on a trend.
Instead of it taking 6-9 months from initial design to manufacture to store placement, you could design quickly, outsource to global manufacturers and have new designs in store in 2-3 months.
Not sure how that’s more wasteful than traditional clothing. It all depends on often you buy new clothes?
It’s especially targeting brands like Primark which are incredibly cheap and poor quality. Clothes costs a few euros and are intended to be worn only a few times.
The inherent properties of the clothing itself are designed for how they are marketed. It has everything to do with fast fashion. It's vertically-integrated planned obsolesence.
Firstly, Europe leading the way as ever in legislation and regulations on ESG.
Secondly, fast fashion has severe social and compliance impacts and that is often overlooked (the environmental and climate piece is well understood).
Whats needed is a more homogeneous way to measure climate and labor impact especially in fashion. Newer, sustainable-focussed brands are taking charge and measuring and publishing their impacts.
It kinda starts to look like that the EU is cleaning up with laws behind USA's turbo capitalism mess. They could start to optimize this ritual a bit...
I’m able to find good quality shoes and boots, jackets, watches, and bags. I can’t for the life of me find quality chinos, polos, t-shirts, sweaters, and other basic articles of clothing.
I’m fine with Levi jeans, but all other clothing items seem to be crappy cotton/spandex blends of poor quality fabric, no matter if you spend $15 or $150 on a garment. It’s very frustrating, I’d rather just buy quality stuff that lasts, but I’m unable to find any quality clothing. Hopefully this legislation encourages clothing manufacturers to use quality fabrics and construction again.
I've not found that for the heavier clothes. If you have money to spend, outdoors clothes shops will sell you awesome quality clothes. (What's yours local equivalent of Kathmandu or Patagonia brands)
But I totally agree on t-shirts - I've been trying to find good ones for a while and each company ended up being a disappointment. American Apparel seems to survive the longest, but I got a recommendation to try one of the online-ordered tailored items. I've used those for shirts and was very happy in the past... it seems like an overkill for t-shirts but I'll give it a go.
This fast-fashion shit has ruined everything. Zara is a spanish brand that around 20 years ago used to produce high quality garments, remember having a lot of shirts, sweater and pants lasting from 5 to 10 years .... After going global they shit everything up .... Always the same issue with capitalism and globalization
If I was making policies I would oblige manufacturers of anything to take back and recycle their product at the end of life. This would make sure products/packagings are made to be recyclable and/or biodegradable.
This should be applied not only to clothing, but really everything. I would expect the first result would be no single use plastics anywhere.
Obviously the cost of the change would be transferred to consumers on the purchase price. However we are already paying it in a deferred manner with the degradation of the natural world.
Yeah — I think a “you sell it, you scrap it” law would de-externalize a lot of really harmful end-user sales: not just for source manufacturers, but every middle-man in between.
Not sure if that is enough given that most product returns are destroyed - from iPads to brand new clothes. So than that rule is already out I think?
Though an extension that that is forbidden in some sense should be fair. Or a rule that forbids the relative amount of trash produced by a company?
Here in Norway we have a law to handle recycling and waste handling of electrical equipment[1].
It requires importers and producers of electrical and electronic equipment to be a member of a return company like Norsirk or RENAS[2], directly funding the collection, recycling and waste handling.
Something similar could be introduced for other product groups as well like clothes.
The customer ends up holding the negative exernality with little ability to affect the upstream pipeline. By sending the waste "back up the pipe" it becomes each middle-company's problem. The point being that each company now has to consider how to get rid of their own generated waste. It de-externalizes the waste problem.
If they choose to put the waste in to a landfill, then so be it: they have to pay to do that.
I'm always glad to learn that I was very moral all along about something. In this case, my 10 year old, falling-apart sweatshirt that I wear every day is real, real virtuous. (I kind of suspected it all along, to be sure.)
easier to repair
Yeah, put down your phones and pick up your needle and thread, ladies. Good luck with that. Maybe the 19th century wasn't so bad.
"Yeah, put down your phones and pick up your needle and thread, ladies. Good luck with that. Maybe the 19th century wasn't so bad."
I am glad that you recognized that idea that modern clothing should be "repairable" as insane and regressive. Its a pretty good demonstration of why alot of "anti-materialist/consumerist" rhetoric is, in my estimate, actually harmful. They're making a policy out of reducing the standard of living.
We could abolish face masks. Every person uses couple every day. Most masks are not recycled. And it is micro fiber that accumulates in animal tissues!
Fast fashion sucks but this is an odd thing to prioritize given the situation Europe now finds itself in. With a massive energy shortfall, Europe is likely entering the worst economic period since WWII. I am proud of them for sticking to their principles, I just think they should be focused on the existential threats they are currently facing.
Legislative systems are massive and employ a small army of people, and such proposals take years to develop. Their current focus will become apparent in a few years.
I’d argue addressing things like fast fashion is focusing on the existential threat that we are all facing. It’s just one of the many things in society that needs to be curtailed if we want to bring our usage of planetary resources back into safe boundaries.
Developing legislation like this one on fast-fashion has little to do with management of current events. It’s a very slow and long process done in the background and doesn’t take away focus from energy and economical issues.
There's a big part of me that agrees with this. I am a bit worried though that we're making it harder and harder for new people coming into the world to make new startups, with more and more rules like this imposing a higher entry cost. Feels like we're just going to have massive companies in the future who are able to navigate all this, and too high a barrier of entry for new companies.
I highly recommend the book "Worn: A People's History of Clothing" by Sofi Thanhauser, for those interested in learning more about environmental impacts of the clothing/textile industry and its history.
Somebody should setup the uncool and reliable brand of male clothing. I want the Toyota Corolla of male clothing. I do not care about fashion. I want to wear timeless long lasting clothes. Don't care about branding either.
Just somebody please setup a shop where I do not have to worry about quality, but is also not a shop that pretends that every item of clothing is hand tailored by an Italian craftsman and costs half a thousand euros.
I haven't tried any other items from them, but I own one sweater from them and I have no bad words to say about it. The quality is superb and it has lasted me a long time. Anecdotal experience, but so far a good one.
That only indicates what the quality was a long time ago. I’ve seen far too many brands and products go from good quality to poor quality over the years. Good quality sold N years ago says nothing about the quality currently sold, unfortunately.
One year? That's pretty good by my standards. I suffer a crotch blowout roughly every 3 months or so. Jeans, apparently, are not made for people with thighs, nor for people who enjoy sitting cross legged. And certainly not both.
As a guy with lifter's legs, I can recommend American Eagle's flex line jeans, whatever they're currently called by their branding department. They come in a wide range of sizes so you can easily match what you need, and also different fits. I used to have the problem you described and no longer do.
>> In January 2021, Uniqlo shirts were blocked at the US border over concerns of violations related to a ban on cotton products produced in the Xinjiang region of China due to reports of forced labour. A protest was filed by Uniqlo's parent company Fast Retailing, but was denied.
>> In March 2022, Fast Retailing decided to remain in the Russian market despite Russia's attack on Ukraine saying that clothing is a "necessity of life".
There's quite a bit of that. Pendleton, Duluth Trading, Lands End to name a few in the US. A lot of them offer very boxy fits, but whole categories like workwear are basically "durable and reliable clothing" - or at least pretending to be. A problem arises when you want modern fit + durable + fashionable; that's when you start to see huge price tags.
The combination of fashionable and durable doesn't make sense: fashions change quickly, so why should an article of clothing outlive the fashion it was meant to serve? To embrace durability in clothing — which I would far rather remain a choice rather than be mandated — you have to embrace social durability, that is, looks that are socially acceptable but not fashionable.
I've been going shopping for shirts/jeans for 30 years now, and when I see something I like I always pinch it between my fingers to check the fabric. Had a fabulous 100% cotton Polo RL shirt that lasted me 10 years until creases around cuffs and the collar literally disintegrated. Went to the same section just last month and the most expensive, fancy shirt there was as thin as rice paper. You could see through it!
I'm not sure what to do. It might be time to switch to an online source, but then I can't "pinch the fabric" as easily - have to return what I don't like. Wish there was a source with fabric specs, but I have little hope. As it is you can barely get the manufacturers to fess up the material blend, hiding it in between a bunch of other tags in fine print or in weird spots.
Not anymore. Pendleton moved production to China a few years back. Duluth has gone far, far downhill (and killed their lifetime warranty.) Lands End is also a shadow of what it was. You only need to hold the new next to the old to see.
The same goes for LL Bean (killed their lifetime warranty, product quality went way downhill) and Filson (they even killed their slogan "Might as Well Have the Best".)
I'm not sure what's left, to be honest; let me know if anyone knows if high quality clothes still exist anymore.
Pendleton still manufactures fabric in the US - although some product lines are probably made in China these days. The fact is none of these companies have much in the way of margins, if you want higher quality, you just have to spend more.
You’re correct that they don’t have high margins, but what you imply by it is wrong. People commonly confuse margin and markup. Markup is the difference between the cost of the goods and their sale price. (Net) margin is unrelated to the cost of goods and is simply the profit generated as a percentage of revenue.
These businesses have extremely high markups because they spend lots of money on marketing or marketing-adjacent things, plain and simple. It’s typically quite easy to see - around the same time that they’ll shift from made in the USA with a lifetime warranty they’ll start paying “influencers”, hiring marketers, sending things to blogs, maintaining a beefed-up social media presence, increasing ad spend etc. They simultaneously cut material costs by outsourcing and raise marketing spend. Their profit margin may not even be changed - but with the higher growth rates that the marketing spend brings the business is more appealing.
There’s no reason you can’t get quality goods at reasonable prices. LL Bean, although not cheap, was reasonably priced before they slashed quality a few years ago. Darn Tough is not cheap but the prices aren’t crazy and they’re made in the USA with a lifetime guarantee. American Apparel was 100% made in the USA until some years back and was solid quality. Los Angeles Apparel is 100% MiUSA and solid quality, prices are fairly reasonable. Clothing just doesn’t cost that much to make; MiUSA and good quality is possible, it just needs to make a comeback.
I appreciate the discussion, but I don't really see the evidence in the numbers for these companies over the last decade or so, maybe it appears on a 20-30 year timeframe. Their gross margins and SG&A haven't changed significantly, although they have for others like Columbia Sportswear. American Apparel, just to pick out one of your examples, was bankrupted with MiUSA.
I'm wondering about the impact of ecommerce now though, especially higher return rates.
I'm not sure who you're finding data for, but most of these businesses are private and you have to look at other indicators. For LL Bean, for example, I was a loyal customer for years and paid close attention to their website, stores and social media. It was obvious when they dramatically cut the quality of their clothing and increased the gloss and marketing, to the point that an employee at a local store commented on it to me. You can't just cut quality and rest on your laurels, or the brand will slowly die (see American Apparel) - you have to cut quality and increase marketing spend, exploiting your former good name (see LL Bean - quality far down, but revenue way up.)
I don't think that American Apparel was bankrupted by MiUSA - now that they've switched away from MiUSA they seem to be a shadow of their former self. In any case, from 1989 to 2014 was a solid run, and their 2014 demise was quickly followed by other MiUSA companies copying a similar model. I think MiUSA can work - Darn Tough, LA Apparel, New Balance, Allen Edmonds, etc.
I think you may have a point with return rates - with lower markups you'd be more affected.
LL Bean used to make the "timeless and long lasting" clothes you're looking for, but sadly has gone downhill in recent years. It's still noticeably better quality than J.Crew or Banana Republic, but many things are much thinner than they used to be.
Avoid outlets or "factory" stores (clothes are made specifically for outlets.) Avoid J.Crew, Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, H&M, TJ Maxx, the Gap. Avoid anything that's gone bankrupt, or been acquired (JC Penney.) Avoid pretty much everything on Amazon.
One decent sign of quality is the thickness of the materials. Some manufacturers will actually note the weight (in gsm or grams per m2.) I have the exact t-shirt in 160gsm and 300gsm from the same company and the 300gsm feels way more substantial/high quality/will last longer. It's also the only t-shirt I've ever gotten compliments on. Of course, higher weights are also warmer. Another decent sign is the materials themselves. Avoid anything plastic-based (nylon, polyester, acrylic, microfiber, etc.) Some materials I love and would recommend in some cases (cashmere, silk, merino wool) but are less durable, so avoid those if you're going for uncool and reliable. High quality cotton and wool, depending on how it's woven, can last forever. Leather starts to age, but if you take care of it it can be a good look.
Also, don't have unrealistic expectations. Even the "best overall running shoe of 2022" from RunRepeat (who do serious running shoe reviews, tear them down etc) - is only expected to last 400-500 miles. Things have a finite lifespan.
You can also make a significant difference by how you wash your clothes. Washing gentle on cold (or hand washing) can make some clothes last several times longer, easily.
If you do all those things (buy high quality to start, made from wool/cotton/leather, wash gentle on cold) you can get 10 years out of a piece of clothing if you don't wear it too often. I've gotten a couple hundred wears over 10+ years out of several LL Bean shirts myself.
When you find a good quality item that you like a lot go back and get extras! Different colors or just some to store away for when your current copy wears out.
I've been liking Duckworth recently, especially their all-wool lines. Pricey, but the shirts appear to be holding up better than Icebreaker and Wooley, and they're made entirely in the US, from wool to shirt. Shame about LL Bean, I've been noticing this about them too, especially since they dropped their legendary warranty.
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[ 3.5 ms ] story [ 281 ms ] threadQuality is a huge issue. It's changed my shopping habits because it's often better to simply go without than to buy cheap rubbish that lasts a week and causes you more inconvenience than if you'd never had it. I mostly buy vintage things that can be repaired now.
In the UK brands like Marks and Spencer used to make clothes that lasted. Now they sell the same appallingly made sweatshop stuff. They still have their famous returns policy, and honour it, but I'd rather have something that lasts than something I can take back when it breaks. Guess they have a procurement issue because quality is uniformly low. Same with cheap electronic goods; pointless locked-down IoT cruft that cannot be repurposed or fixed and is landfill fodder straight after unboxing.
We're drowning in cheap manufactured goods whose short lifespan and overhead (transport and disposal) dwarfs its functional utility.
They buy quality handbags, jewellery and jackets, but everything else is a consumable. They do share their clothing amongst each other and a couple of close friends, but otherwise will hardly wear a combination more than once (outside that is).
Here I am, buying all my cloths in 5 fold, since I do not like matching different items.
unsustainable and wasteful consumption
the reason fast shopping exists, kids can’t afford new fashion item every week, but SHEIN and others make it so cheap and nice looking that makes this behavior possible
None of my clothes look like they need replacing anytime soon. Except for socks, which for whatever mystery known but to god periodically vanish. My wife's clothing situation much more resembles your daughters
I'm curious if other men here have cycle through clothes continously, and if so, how?
Edit: spelling
the issue is social media addiction which encourages the said behaviors
“influencers” make a living advertising fast fashion brands
My wife would love to have the same arrangement with her work clothes. I think part of the problem is that women's clothing is made to not be as durable, although I think it could be. Most women would probably be happy to wear a fancy scarf over something basic and call it a day.
There doesn't seem to be a good standard for women's professional work attire that isn't at risk of soon falling out of fashion. Because it isn't 'designed' to last for six months it doesn't.
It’s an open secret that it is. It’s less of an issue for men because they are simply less subjected to fashion. Just look at what is considered formal attire for men and women. I can survive at the office with a rotation of three suits and ten shirts. That’s impossible for a woman.
When there is no more fast fashion, people will just look in their wardrobe instead of shopping site xyz. And instead of "look what I found on xyz", they will say, "look what I found in my wardrobe".
After a short time of friction, this fast-fashion behaviour will be unlearned. Especially if the new situation applies to everyone, so there is no peer pressure going on.
Executives seem to know or are making the bet that brands may not stay popular for long as it may be fad buying and not a sustainable trend, or they simply know they can make more money individually/selfishly if they use these tactics - and hire people who use these tactics; why make $15+ million over 20 years when you maybe could milk a brand to death and get $10+ million in 5 years?
What I wonder is though are there potential pitfalls of this for consumers?
Have they or anyone done a study on cost changes, e.g. will costs increase substantially in short-term but perhaps that is more than made up on the tail end with the durability?
Did they publish a list of known poor quality textiles, I imagine that would include such things as low thread count for the textile and perhaps for stitching as well?
Does this impact certain styles of clothing that say due to their sheer nature?
And of course there are still the venerable shoe makers of Northampshire which in my opinion remain the best industrial ready-to-wear shoemaking in the world (with a few exceptions, namely Carmina and J.M. Weston) : Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Church's, Grenson etc. I'm myself a regular Crockett & Jones customer as they make the only size + width combination I've found in ready-to-wear that matches my feet really well.
Of course it's a rather militant way of looking at clothing and it's all pretty expensive stuff but :
- Frankly it's affordable if you've got an engineer's comp.
- It keeps its value well on the second-hand market.
PS my C&J Islays are probably my favourite boots, and I’ve got a ventile raincoat from Private White. Some day I’ll def buy something from SEH Kelly, although most of their stuff might be too warm for Spain.
If it is on the high street, it's expensive in order to fund advertising, not higher quality.
If you take that formula and input marketing, you've got luxury companies : great craftsmanship at inflated prices.
If you avoid the cheapest clothing lines at M&S, their mid-priced clothing is generally of longer-lasting and better quality.
For example, you can buy organic cotton chinos and jeans in the price range £25-35 (approximately $35-45/€30-40). These are reasonable prices given the premium typically charged for organic clothing.
In reality, the reason why "fast fashion" exists isn't related to quality at all. You can buy t-shirts that cost £3 that will be as long lasting as anything 10x or 100x the price. I am not sure how people think t-shirts are made, there isn't some hidden secret of durability known only to companies that charge a lot.
The reason "fast fashion" exists is because most retailers provide terrible value for money. Fast fashion charge significantly less for clothes made in the same factory, with the same materials and labour. That is it.
So it is unsurprising this is occurring in Europe: luxury goods manufacturers there successfully lobbied for exemptions from Russian sanctions, they are a formidable lobbying force in Brussels, the aim of this is to stop competition from non-EU manufacturers (particularly from the UK and China). Classic EU. If you can't win, cheat.
If you want to do more about this issue, just improve recycling...that is it. Done.
The quality standard for products seems to be incredibly low nowadays. I see people happily buying whatever cheap Chinese junk Amazon dropshippers sell, for a "low" price that's usually 4-5x the price of the exact same item on AliExpress. Reviews are overwhelmingly positive because most people don't care about actual specs or functionality and give 5 stars as long as it's cheap and it works, even when the product is marked up by the dropshipper and leaves a lot to be desired.
Reputable brands that used to make quality products now need to compete on price in a sea of "good enough" garbage, and many of them choose to do so by outsourcing manufacturing to the same Chinese factories that make the no-name stuff. Midrange products disappeared entirely and now the choice is between disposable landfill and ridiculously expensive high-end items.
As someonce in a Reddit thread (?) once said: "The product that retails for $500 costs $5 more to manufacture than the low-end equivalent that sells for $20. If you try to find a middle ground and spend $100, you end up with the $20 product in a nice box."
I don't think it's just that. Many people (like myself) stopped buying "reputable" brands because they have betrayed their reputation. Nowadays when buying electromechanic devices even when putting 10x the price i have no clue if it's going to last more than 2 years (minimum warranty in EU) and that's a fucking awful problem.
In my view, we need 20+ years warranty (minimum, i personally would argue for 50+) on all products mandated by law, then we can start to see some improvement. This is a public policy problem and as much as i hate the EU institutions they are the only entity i know doing anything about this very serious problem creating tons of waste/pollution.
Buy a washer, are a single man, use it once a week? It breaks in 15 years? Covered.
Are a family of 8, wash 2x daily, it breaks after manufacture's stated warranty? Probably, not covered.
This helps, because it stops parts that are designed to fail due to time, instead of usage, from destroying the product.
There are a few government agencies which will help you with this too, instead of going to court, by merely a form to fill out.
That sounds fair, until it's not. It's perfectly normal that a washer as a whole fails after 15 years: the thing is the belt is the only part that should fail and it should be easy to replace. Like with IT parts, manufacturers go to great lengths to ensure parts are incompatible with one another and hard to replace.
Most electro-mechanic devices i've seen fail in the past two/three decades were due to electronics: heater thermostat (not the IoT kind, the dumb kind), washing machine program selector (also dumb kind), etc. Likewise in auto industry it was reported that most vehicles being recalled in the past years in USA were due to electronics failing, not mechanics.
I personally find that outrageous and bet everyone would be better off if consumer products had standard bodies mandating use of specific interchangeable parts (like we have for electric/USB sockets or lightbulbs), and if it was illegal to sell hard-to-repair products (no glue breaking the device when you tear it apart).
Mandating a >20y warranty and duty of available spare parts is in my view the path of least effort for regulators: it will significantly raise the overall price of pushing out new incompatible models. Manufacturers would only release a device once every decade once they have achieved some significant efficiency/usability gains, instead of releasing parts-incompatible new designs for bad products every month just to profit. If you add in some standards regulations dictating interoperable formats for specific parts, that would start to look like an eco-friendly user-benefiting regulation.
Of course amateur industry like Pine64 needs to be exempt from such regulations to allow for innovation, but customer devices are a currently a nightmare destroying our planets and ruining our lives and wallets. I applaud Quebec for taking those steps, but they simply won't cut it.
PS: How is IoT even legal? In 99% of cases, it introduces unnecessary complexity and fragility, and in most cases has glaring security concerns.
To please the 'mah free market' types, we shouldn't make it illegal - we should ship broken good back to the manufacturer and have them disasemble the device into pristine materials for perfect recylcing. Breach of recycling laws shiould be a criminal offence - if I litter on the streets, I can literally go to jail, so why is a company above the law in this regard? (and so many others)
It will be so expensive to do, the effect will be the same
After that we have to get the people that get government subsidied for reprocessing, but their reprosessing is to ship our plastic illegally to poor nations where they are dumpled in the ocean
That’s because energy efficiency does tend to improve.
The lack of appliances that last this long is itself a result of better production: if you have some large number of components, each one must have a 50 year expected lifetime if you want a chance for the machine to work for even a decade.
It’s improvements in precision and knowledge of materials that tightened down the variability for individual components, making it possible to construct something that is likely to survive the decade, then see everything failing at around the same time. Cutting down on over-provisioning in this manner obviously saves resources and costs, as well.
That might be true in terms of CO2 and energy efficiency, although the only sources i've found on the topic gave very opposite results. But no study that i know of accounts for pollution (waste water and polluted surroundings of extraction sites, refinement sites, assembly sites, and "recycling" sites) so i'm tempted to argue that anything we don't manufacture is better for the environment than better efficiency.
> The lack of appliances that last this long is itself a result of better production: if you have some large number of components, each one must have a 50 year expected lifetime if you want a chance for the machine to work for even a decade.
I strongly disagree with this interpretation. First, because industry routinely employs bad parts and bad design on purpose (planned obsolescence, eg. televisions placing heat-sensitive capacitors near heat sources). But also because an individual part failing is in my view OK as long as this part is standard and easy to source.
There are some environmental/logistic concerns if you want to repair old devices given the gazillion incompatible spare parts they each use. But if they all used standard parts, we could and should have repair shops run as a free public service to avoid throwing stuff away. This in itself would do more for the environment than any "green new deal" would ever do.
It's not necessary to achieve zero failures, but it creates incentives for manufactures to use higher quality parts.
I am supportive of setting minimum lifespans for certain classes of products and to expwct manufacturers to be liable for that performance.
the factory that built that refrigerator heat pump from the 70' is unlikely to still be making it.
as of today it would be already a big improvement if the was a law saying: "if a part is no longer produced or sold by the IP owner then it is legal to recreate and sell clones of that part"
Yes but why? Why do we have 400 different models of heat pump for every fridge out there? I can understand that once every decade or so a new tech comes out that's worthy of developing parts from. But even then the new parts could be retrofitted into existing designs.
> "if a part is no longer produced or sold by the IP owner then it is legal to recreate and sell clones of that part"
That would be a huge improvement. What would be an even better improvement would be to abolish so-called IP entirely and to mandate actual durability for all parts sold. Think about lightbulbs: the parts/socket are standard (no IP involved), every factory can produce them, and yet we still have crazy bad durability.
And yet you failed to account for the embodied energy in building the product and the fact that maintaining any appliance or equipment requires repairs. So there is quite a bit to disagree with.
It is much more wasteful to build a product with no methods of repair, noting that a large number of components will statistically fail due to variability of tolerances or usage patterns.
A 50 yr product requires maintenance, replaceable parts and access to documentation. All of these are lacking in our modern consumer environment. You can blame this on complexity, or designs towards sleekness or what not but the truth is that product failure after a short amount of time (planned obsolescence) creates a reoccurring customer base, and the ability to pass off cheaper parts that don't need to be able to handle removal (glue vs. screws, etc.).
I'm skeptical about your first assertion -- think of the effect of a power surge. I don't agree with your second assertion at all, from my experience of cheap devices that fail not long after their warranty expires.
I recently bought a new washing machine. It is twice as efficient as the old one that broke down irreparably after 12 years.
I chose it by summing machines' cost, and the projected cost of each one's electricity needs going 10 years in the future, if prices go up by 10% per year, and picking the cheapest total one.
The cost of the machine itself ended up being 1149 RON, and the cost of the electricity would be 938 RON, which is almost the cost of the machine entirely.
So it is indeed important to consider efficiency and updating an old machine, and compare with what you have.
As long as the improvement in power efficiency keeps up, it will not make sense to keep an appliance for 50 years. But once that improvement stops, so does the reason for replacing them.
I am very skeptical: Washing machine has two functions: Spinning and heating water. heating is 99% efficient, and electric motors are like 95% efficient - where is the improvement coming from? Is is smart features? What do they do, instead of spinning left it spins right?
What about an oven or a kettle, there is no possible improvement, and I bet the shoddily made ones are actualyl less efficient and worse insulated.
The most water-efficient models in our ratings use an average of 10 gallons of water, 75 percent less than older models.
https://www.consumerreports.org/washing-machines/best-eco-fr...
For example even if my phone charger were to get twice as efficient, it’s drawing very little power, given that it spends most of its time unplugged: it uses a fraction of a watt. That means that I would have to use it for an extremely long time to get near to the amount of energy used to manufacture a new one.
This doesn’t take into account the savings in drinkable water which has most likely been through an energy-intensive process as well.
If you have collective washing machines as a public service running 24/7, the tradeoff may be worth it, but as a general rule it's certainly not the case. Extracting and refining materials for industrial processes consumes millions and millions of m³ of water and a lot of energy.
Our perception as consumers is skewed because the price we pay for electricity/water makes it economically more affordable to us to get newer devices, but from a resource usage perspective, that's certainly not a good deal for the planet. If we paid water/electricity the price that big industries do, we wouldn't even think getting a new device was a reasonable choice.
Did we discover new phisics of washing? Do we have any reason to believe further improvement is possible?
This is a physical process, you can't have infinite improvement - there is a certain minimum amount of water required to dissolve detergent, and it can be easilly calculated.
They don't do much, does anyone have a real explanation without any handwaving?
The old top loader basically filled up a big tub with hot water and sloshed it around a bit.
Modern front loaders just incrementally add the amount of water needed as determined by weight. Presumably wouldn’t have worked nearly as well with the available detergents of 50 years ago.
Secondly, while I never used a top loader, from everything I've read, they are worse in every dimention, so the comparison seems inappropriate - you are introducing extra variables.
Also I am not clear why 'incrementally adding water' was not possible previously, People built a 'smart' toaster 70 years ago, that could sence how cooked your bread is, and it was purely mechanical:
https://www.theverge.com/22801890/sunbeam-radiant-control-to...
Added: And toasters still do a crap job of figuring out done-ness.
The new machines are better. I'm not an expert, but I think the biggest differences are: sensors to stop adding water when it isn't necessary, a really powerful spinner in the washer that dries the clothes better, powerful spinner in the dryer. Btw, my washing machine is top load, fwiw.
Oh, and to answer a different question: why didn't we have this stuff years ago? I think, no one cared enough to do it.
A possible future improvement could be delayed start that communicates with time of use metering or something, although this would have to be implemented in such a way that the software itself wouldn't turn the machine into a piece of junk in 3 short years (eg libre software).
I suspect there are also many sensor-based improvements that could give machines more intelligent processing, but anyone who has repaired appliances knows that BOM cost rules all. So those would seemingly rely on less time-based manifest-destiny "innovation" and more on designing machines with more value in the first place.
Certainly there not necessarily anything wrong with open source controller software but it’s no Panacea either.
And what surveillance? My heating system isn’t networked at all.
By surveillance I'm referring to what would pass for "remote notifications" of system status (after the possible bad sensor was detected). The IoTrash solution would be to backhaul your system's data to a surveillance cloud, require you to sign up for email spam, install a bespoke app that would spam you with useless notifications, faux-consent to a ridiculous anti-privacy contract, etc. Whereas in the libre world, user-focused incentives are allowed to define functionality and that notification could be a simple single email.
Making the point in general, in order for complex software to not be some terrible black box, it needs to expose its internal state to users who want to see it. Libre software tends to do that (as many users are developers), while non-libre software tends to lock all that up and thus severely limits reliability xor complexity.
Individuals are of course welcome to hack together what they want using Arduinos or whatever.
Again I very deliberately do not have a smart thermostat or other network connections to my heating so no surveillance is going on. I do have network-connected temperature sensor but it’s purely passive.
I had a similar failure with my hot water boiler, where an older solid state control failed such that when the circulator would kick on the burner would shut off. This allowed it to limp along heating, until a day when it was too cold out and I realized it wasn't keeping up.
re: libre software, my point isn't really about being able to audit the code, but rather about having a cross-device software-maintainer-maintained codebase that users choose to use.
FWIW another, probably better, way to mitigate this particular external temperature sensor failure mode would be a second larger control loop. When the indoor temperature is more than a few degrees below the setpoint (not as a result of a scheduled change), the furnace should be less-efficiently creating a larger amount of heat to get back up to the setpoint quicker. Which is funnily enough how people think most thermostats work when they ineffectively turn it up higher to get things warmer faster.
I too critically rely on heating. As system complexity increases with things like outside temperature sensors, I would much rather have visibility into their workings than not. In the middle of the night, that could be the difference between a quick ten minute diagnose and override, or waiting some hours for an emergency service call.
Though to be honest I agree with your point. A lot of the low hanging fruit for massive gains in efficiency are gone. It's like cars, going from 10 mpg to 20 mpg is a huge difference. Going from 50 mpg to 60 mpg is a much smaller difference.
But then the washer is stealing heat from your house? That seems questionable?
Seems like the right way to solve the problem is to provide hot water inlet, and that should provide it is whatever most efficient way you can?
(The water is either collected in a container or goes down a drain)
For modern top loading washers, the final temperature of the water is restricted by limiting the hot water let in, they don't have a heater.
Of course I am talking about cars that use the same fuel type.
I see no reason to replace it, new stuff doesn't look better, doesn't work better and doesn't last more (probably the opposite). Tons of things are like that. Yes new fridge will save a bit more electricity (compared to already savvy one from 15 years ago) but the amount of energy and material that go into creating new one, and the amount of waste it produces when disposed of, are non-trivial and not handled well even in richest western societies.
I don't agree with 20 years warranty, many things like batteries and capacitors just don't last that long. But some form of longer warranty would definitely motivate manufacturers to focus more on quality.
Some capacitors can last just as long depending on their specs. For batteries, it's more complicated but longer warranty would probably incentivize R&D for durable batteries instead of smaller/stronger batteries, which would be a great win for the environment (see also: supercapacitors).
But the point is most devices are designed to be thrown away, not repaired. If your devices had apparent screws, and easy-to-replace parts, it could be repaired very easily by any skilled laborer (preferably as a public service, but it could also come from a local private workshop). Unfortunately, i don't know a single way to incentivize manufacturers to produce easy-to-repair products apart from extending warranty significantly: when they hold the responsibility to do repair on 100% of units not just the 0.1% people actually care to return (which will likely be replaced not repaired), they may be interested to make stuff easier to repair for everyone else.
Hopefully the wheel will turn soon and product people will rule the roost once again. We need some MBA types as well, but there needs to be balance in the force.
This is the first time that I've seen the term "MBA" being verbed (at least with that meaning) and yet I understand exactly what you mean and I fully agree with you. Congratulations if you coined this usage, it's a great way of expressing something for which I was missing a word.
I’d recommend avoiding this lazy intellectual path because it’s not only incorrect in this context, it perverts your thinking in other contexts as well.
Tim Cook is an Industrial Engineer with an MBA - a perfect combination. Apple is actually a great example of a company that produces a lot of value and also captures it in the form of dollars.
From this point of view, to be "MBA'ed" is to focus on profit while forgetting about producing value. This then waters down brands that were established on the bedrock of value produced by product people.
The reason this is lazy thinking in my view is because usually it’s not associated with the good (Apple example, nobody goes “dang they really MBA’d the price on that MacBook Pro that I love) and because when something “bad” occurs there’s no understanding or analysis of the situation that lead to the current state. Just a bunch of “that’s bad, must be MBAs screwing me”. You find similar issues with “those Silicon Valley engineers all screwing us and stealing our attention” and other common phrases. The MBA one I think is even less nuanced than the contrived Silicon Valley one.
If we go back to the MBA thing. Well. I have one. I don’t like fast fashion. I wouldn’t want to support it even if it made more money. The degree doesn’t make you do anything, your incentives and who you are as a person are much more powerful. There’s no class on fast fashion (or similar) where MBA students are trained to maximize profit at all costs or not think about sociological impact. At least at Ohio State (Fisher) that was the case in all classes I attended. We spent a lot more time learning about not doing such things and how they are bad for business and society in the long run. My classmates had a lot of empathy. Maybe it’s because like me they were/are regular people just trying to do better.
So I really hate seeing this. To the extent it can happen on an internet board I find it a little offensive and disrespectful. Not a big deal or something just saying if you joined some forum and everybody said all the bad decisions were because of software engineers, well you’d probably at least get tired of hearing about it. Especially when you’re a regular person trying to be nice and do good, value-add work. Idk. Thanks for your comment.
As an investor, I look for companies that do well on both ends of the spectrum.
Let me give you another contrived example:
“Social media co is found to have withheld information that lead to bad social thing”
“This is what happens when companies become Software Engineered. They lose all focus on the customer and society just to create better algorithms”.
You don’t think that if we just constantly repeated something like this that would be a bad thing and might alienate people? Especially when it’s not true and ignores good things that people have done as well?
What I’ll say is this. It’ll stop being lazy and disrespectful when large groups here also give credit where credit is due instead of only blame without evidence.
* Note that I don’t actually care, I’m never at home offended by something, I’m just commenting on the nature of the action, which I would classify as disrespectful.
I guess those Silicon Valley software engineers have earned the title of bad actors with all the addicting software they write! There isn’t much sympathy around here for the plight of the poor maligned Software Engineer. After all you make a killing ruining people’s lives and destroying their ability to interact with their community with your addicting algorithms and your advertisements. You wait until a company relies on your cloud software or tools and then you raise the price just to squeeze every last drop of revenue. You have no moral compass and if you did, you wouldn’t build this stuff. I mean all you care about is career advancement. Build and ship a product and then move on before it gets shut down for not being viable. Skills? Hardly. You run easy pipelines and use software tools only you can afford to invest in to make you feel super productive while you ruin people’s lives. All in the name of getting enough “I shipped that” to put you on the executive CTO track before you dump dog shit companies on public equity markets. *
Same song different dance. Not buying it.
* I don’t actually believe this, nor do I believe similar lazy comments about any degree or profession because they are dumb and lazy intellectual positions.
You know, as someone supposed to be targeted here, I would agree, we need to take more personal and collective responsibility in what work we accept to do. This is a problem of culture. It's fair to point us out as a group when it's this systemic. Even if it's a small portion of people who are actually part of the problematic situations, the majority still accepts it for what it is, seniors will happily hire engineers without moral compass, FB and Palantir engineers working on destructive stuff still have a lot of street cred.
Of course it's frustrating being lumped together with the bad ones. And there's little you can do as an individual when you're outnumbered or outpowered. But those who can should do what they can to do good and not participate in the bad.
That aside, would it be fair to say you have an issue with that they scope the tribe/group they're accusing completely wrong? That MBAs are just a caricature if the people they're actually talking about, some of whom don't have an MBA and many MBAs are not those people? If so, agreed, it's a lazy and unfair one.
Yes, generally speaking, I’d agree with that. I simply take issue with that actual espoused sentiment that “if something bad happens it must be an MBA type” and if at the same company something good happens said MBA type couldn’t possibly deserve credit.
> You know, as someone supposed to be targeted here, I would agree, we need to take more personal and collective responsibility in what work we accept to do.
I agree too. But I would also say in a similar vein it wouldn’t be fair to go around and say “those software engineering types” as a response ya know?
But... people do use a very similar term, overengineered. Quite appropriately. You are absolutely allowed, encouraged, to call out someone specifying a product to the nines because they can. See Juicero, I'd argue Peloton, a.. decent proportion of products that involve Heroku or Kubernetes.
But so are engineers allowed to call out someone playing financial find-the-lady to obscure what they're really doing: using trust relationships built over decades, if not centuries, to fuck over customers.
Here's another example: made in China has a connotation of cheap and low quality, despite the fact that the iPhone and all the other high quality electronic products are made in China too. But if someone says "made in china" we know they're referring to the cheap stuff.
Well that's good that you were in a humane class ; from the people i know in France who received "MBA"-like education, it sounds like the exception, though. Are you familiar with critiques of neoliberal micromanagement, or as David Graeber's put it manageurial feudalism? How else would you explain the rise of bureaucracy ruling even non-profits (!) and ruining everything for everyone who cares about what they do?
> My classmates had a lot of empathy. Maybe it’s because like me they were/are regular people just trying to do better.
Cool, but how can you change the system by following its own rules? Do you feel that as an MBA working in a company you can go against the stream of anti-social control-based measures? I know as a random worker it doesn't work (which is why we have unions and cooperatives) but maybe you have a different perspective to share.
> Not a big deal or something just saying if you joined some forum and everybody said all the bad decisions were because of software engineers, well you’d probably at least get tired of hearing about it.
Well, the thing is as a class both we software people and you business people are ruining the lives of literally billions of people. So we're bound to get some resentment. Still, as Nabil Hassein points out in his talk "Computing, Climate Change, and All our Relationships", it's very mild. (paraphrasing) Given the evil we do to society as a whole, and the fate that's usually reserved to collaborators of oppressive regimes, angry messages on forums and stoning Silicon Valley buses is just the beginning and we should be very careful whose side of the barricade we are on when the revolution does come. I strongly recommend to watch the rest of the talk :)
Apple also has a pretty accessible recycling program but more importantly Apple products hold their value more, leading to a pretty good used market. No doubt this is bolstered by Apple’s fairly generous global warranty policy that is also transferrable.
Btw the “crippling” you referred to was apple throttling phones so weakened batteries were able to supply enough voltage to prevent the phone from randomly shutting off. It was not some secret attempt to blanket slow down old phones. If you replaced old batteries the problem would not happened. It was just bad communication and built up sentiment that old phones kept getting slower with each new update.
Yes the Fairphone are doing well thank you. Very easy to tear apart, setup the system of your choice, and find replacement parts for.
> Apple products hold their value more, leading to a pretty good used market.
What does that mean? Money is just imaginary numbers. A phone is a phone: either it works good or it doesn't, how much and why it's valued by people brainwashed into a commercial cult [0] matters little in the equation.
> No doubt this is bolstered by Apple’s fairly generous global warranty policy that is also transferrable.
Kudos for them to respect the law. Although i must point out that for some years, at least in France, they were obviously breaking EU laws by saying their phones had only 1y warranty (2y minimum by law) and selling people "upgrades" to get the 2 years.
> It was not some secret attempt to blanket slow down old phones. If you replaced old batteries the problem would not happened.
Do you have a source for this? It's the first time i hear that explanation, and it certainly was not put forward by Apple in their update log at the time (suggesting malice). Also worth noting that Apple makes it harder than it should to crack your phone open to replace the battery, so i don't think that's a strong argument in their defense.
[0] https://www.techspot.com/news/43884-neurologists-apple-is-li...
Transferrable warranties are very much not the law in the US. This, along with a healthy used/refurbished market mean that old devices stay in use longer. The saying is reduce, reuse, and THEN recycle. But the impact in reduce and reuse is much better than recycling.
I’m not sure what you mean “a phone just works or it doesn’t.” I’ve never heard of the Fairphone but I’m sure if it has good usability it would be catching on. I had in fact switched to Android for a year before and went back to iPhone after countless both hardware and software based quality issues.
Apple is not a religion, at least it does not affect me in that way. While I use a macbook and iPhone, I am fairly against their other products (like unnecessary icloud usage, apple watch).
If anything it sounds more like users of esoteric android feature phones (where the feature is some arbitrary definition of sustainability) is under some cult or religion.
The Fairphone you mentioned has lukewarm reviews, is objectively an inferior phone aside from its more sustainable materials. https://www.theverge.com/22716194/fairphone-4-review
If you look at mass market phones with actual market share, Apple does way better on the sustainability side by simply *keeping old phones usable.” If you want to be sustainable reduce first. Then reuse. An old iphone being resold or handed down is by definition made out of 100% recycled parts.
I don’t know when I learned it, but I’ve looked it up a few times to be sure I’m not day dreaming; after the WW2, declassified propaganda research became the basis for ad and marketing programs in university.
It’s always been about establishing a mood and inserting a meme to go with it. Maybe that’s “gotten worse” as we whittle stats looking for growth. I think people are just aware of what’s always been true.
Somewhere along the way it became blind allegiance to a certain kind of agency, like a religion. We’re all busy FOMOing, being ourselves, like the Sprite commercials told us, we miss that we’re just shuffling along the same old routine as dad and grandpa, feeling too unique to be required to grow a potato or sew a pillow.
Circling high minded wisdom isn’t new. Tribal chieftains, god kings, preachers, now the nerds promising human longevity and prosperity for all-time to come… if we all just follow this model, it’s ours for the taking! Not so new.
I’m still waiting to be impressed.
Onward with the next generation rug pull. They got pensions in the 80-90s. It was reported Trump and co were looking into leveraging 401ks for gambling, but they used covid to hand over stacks of cash without question to leverage the average workers debtors prison they find themselves in.
It’s the circle of life, Simba.
When you buy something in the UK/Europe, anything really, it needs to meet 3 criteria[0]:
1. Fit for purpose: i.e. if it says "running shoes", then shoes should be suitable for running. If you use them to hammer nails, then it's on you.
2. As described: match the description, model number, etc
3. Satisfactory quality: this is the key ... and it depends on the product, but generally it relies on common sense. i.e. if you bought a washing machine for 2000EUR, you can expect it to last, let's say, 20 years of regular family use... If you bought a 2nd hand washing machine for 50EUR, probably can't expect it to last more than a year...
The problem is not with the law, but generally speaking, companies don't give a toss. Nobody's going to fine them... And worse, consumers are easily misled by warranty periods and just don't expect the protection. Even if they paid 2000EUR for a washing machine and it failed after 2 years, they are more likely to just get a new one. Even if legally they can require the retailer (not even the manufacturer) to replace or repair it because the product wasn't of sufficient quality. The burden of proof is usually on the consumer though, which kinda makes it harder though.
[0] https://www.moneyhelper.org.uk/en/getting-help-and-advice/co...
Also worth noting: hardware manufacturers have found a better option to suppress the second hand market. Hardware locking (iCloud/Knox lock) is terribly efficient at this, essentially turning perfectly good devices into bricks. It's even "better" because they can advertise it as a security feature for gullible users who don't realize Apple/Samsung still has the master key and there's an entire corrupt grey market of company workers getting money under the table to defeat the lock in almost every phone store across the planet...
I don't understand what you mean by iCloud/Knox lock. As far as iCloud lock is concerned, it is only for stolen devices in which the owner did not deactivate their own icloud account. Where are your sources for gray market of company workers defeating the lock? I'd imagine if an Apple activation lock is bypassed it would have to do with resetting the password on the iCloud account.
Over time, a lot of those companies got bought out by conglomerates and started selling the same Asian-made stuff as everyone else (for the most part; there can still be differences. Premium brands often manufacture in Asia as well).
It’s harder to charge a big premium for random clothing and soft goods. To pick a random example Lands’ End is a case in point.
From my experience over the past 15 years, most electronics that were high quality and high price remained the same, however the cheaper alternatives have gone up in quality by a lot.
Imo, the midrange is still there. However the number of manufacturers have gone way up and it's really hard to find something that's quality.
You can't just look at the brand name, which seems to have become a worthless concept, companies will sell their name (and long term reputation) for pennies.
You need to look at the hardware itself and know some basics about what makes it good and what not. The vast majority of people can't do that.
Over time I found myself thinking "I gotta get a new one" more often than "I need to fix it" because there's an abundance of stuff.
For example, if you go to buy a microphone arm, you're going to see three segments. There's the bottom tier of exposed hinges and tension springs, then there's the two-bar articulating models, and then at the top there's the unibody hinged ones from Blue, Rode, etc. which are surely nice but also a lot more expensive for not much more. Companies like Samson and Neewer sell into the bottom two categories. But even if you buy the bottom-tier mic arms, if you buy one from Neewer and buy one from another brand you'll immediately see that they look the same but the Neewer one works a lot better: better tension to hold the mic in place, ever-so-slightly better (and more pleasant to use) tightening knobs, that sort of thing. They can't be spending more than an extra fifty cents on the product but it works so much better that I preferentially buy from those brands even though it's still "cheap". And then you get into those midrange models, which for my money compete very favorably with the expensive stuff while being half the cost.
(Chinese products with made up brand names don't count.)
There are no items where it’s 5 times as much for the same item with the same speed to your door.
I buy things in aliexpress all the time. You’re paying in unavailability. Much of the time orders are actually batched
https://www.amazon.com/BAIMEI-Roller-Massager-Treatment-Rout...
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005002433548378.html?spm=a2g...
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000252753301.html?spm=a2g0o....
I happily pay 4-5x the price for a $1 part because I'll actually have it in hand this week rather than 2 months from now.
Say what you like about Amazon, but their no-quibble returns policy is second to none, even in places like Europe that have high-levels of consumer protection enshrined in law.
From my own personal experience:
Amazon: Bought an IT component on Amazon (sold by third-party, not "sold by Amazon"). Item that arrived was not as described (lower spec than promised). Filed a return on Amazon, Amazon paid for the return shipment and refunded me as soon as the courier scanned the collection barcode.
Third-party: Bought a new PC from a reputable reseller (with whom I'd dealt with before occasionally over the years). PC arrived, hardware was OK but the BIOS was completely FUBAR (corrupted beyond salvage). Requested a return and a refund. Despite consumer law being strong in my country, the seller made it so painful and was dragging out the process so much (no doubt so they could push me past the consumer law deadline) that I gave up. I now have an expensive doorstop that is completely unusable.
I still buy from third-parties, but generally only low-risk stuff or higher-risk if I've got recent prior really good experience (or if there's no choice, e.g. things that have to be bought from "authorised resellers"). Otherwise for random stuff, if Amazon stock it and its not outrageously above the going price, I'll just buy it on Amazon for the peace of mind.
Also, easy returns doesn't mean the items are being reused/the process is good for the environment. Industry surveys show around 25% of returns wind up in a landfill, and this number varies greatly based on what the item is - clothes are thrown away much more often.
Basically, Amazon and other high-volume low-quality retailers simply sell so many products at so high a markup that they can absorb the cost of throwing away some XX% of the products that get returned as a cost of doing business.
You can validly blame Amazon for a lot of things, but the embrace of Chinese Chabuduo culture isn’t one of them. That is an international trade issue, which is to say a political responsibility of the federal government in the USA and evidently the EU in Europe.
Trippen shoes from Germany make comfortable shoes that aren’t exactly main stream, but are repairable and used to offer a very reasonable refurbishment price (haven’t refurbished any for a bit). I have several pairs of 20+ years old shoes from them.
https://en.trippen.com/t/men
Nudie jeans offer free repairs at their shops and 10+% discount for new jeans if they are not repairable, as trade-in. If you trade in, and they are usable, they sell as second hand.
https://www.nudiejeans.com/repair-spots/#stores
You can just buy any Goodyear (or Blake) welted shoe to have rebuildable shoes, there are dozens of makers that offer more uh… conventional and mainstream styles of shoes anywhere from $200-$2500.
England: Loake, Alfred Sargent, C&J, Trickers, Church’s, Edward Green, Saint Crispins, John Lobb
US: Allen Edmonds, Alden, Rancourt, Red Wing, White’s, Nick’s, Grant Stone
Canada: Viberg
Spain: Meermin, Carmina
Hungary: Vass
They'll not only repair their clothes for free, even if you've been careless and damaged it yourself, but also you can pay them to repair other brands in their shop.
It's also possible that the type of damage to your gear (peeling laminate) was not repairable, but I would have at least expected a replacement.
I thought it was such a cool concept. Everything is handmade to order, seems really well made.
[1] https://mizora.studio/
Nudie Jeans definitely honours their repair policy, but what I find is that their jeans wear much faster than others (Deisel Jeans being the most hard-wearing so far).
At some point your jeans look so janky from all the repairs (and they become uncomfortable as the crotch are gets patched and becomes double the thickness) that the utility, fit, comfort and look of the jeans is terrible, to the point where you probably don't want to wear them.
I have 5 pairs of nudie jeans, they all end up like this.
--
When it comes to Shoes I recommend R.M.Williams. I have a pair of their garden shoes, i have worn them every single day for the last year and they look almost new (save a few creases where my feet bend), they're also repairable and have passed many teardowns. https://www.rmwilliams.com.au/
And that's just Levi's... I don't have the time or the energy to bother with the kind of denim fanaticism that blew up over the last decade or so.
Before they IPO'd, my trick to long-lasting Levi's was to wait until whatever seasonal collection they had with 'toughness' in mind went on sale or blowout, because they used to experiment more with fabrics. I've got a pair of 501s made with Dyneema, the stuff they make ropes for ships out of. The Skateboard line was marketed as being able to take more abuse than normal, and so far has lived up to that. For better or for worse, they've simplified their product line a lot since being publicly traded.
And if you want to get real weird, the other thing that I found helps is... that's right, not washing my jeans every time I wear them. There are exceptions, but I work from home, I'm generally not doing much to stink up my jeans. I have a rolling rack that I keep 10 pairs of jeans on, and I cycle through them, so that at the very most, any pair gets worn once every week and a half.
Anyway... I haven't had to buy new jeans in a long time, and I switched over to all-Levi's years ago - but It took a little trial and error to get a lay of the land.
I don’t was my jeans, I wear them a couple days a week and let them sit for the other few days. I wash them about every 2 months (though washing does take a noticeable toll).
I’m not sure the “no true Levi’s” can apply to me however; I bought them from the official Levi’s store in Malmö.
My Freitag bag will no doubt outlast me. It's made from repurposed truck tarps and seat belts. Both companies will repair their products.
https://www.filson.com/stewardship.html
https://www.freitag.ch/en/manifesto
I’ve since switched over to the even more expensive Lululemon, which seems vastly better. Time will tell.
I’d rather have three very expensive shirts that fit great and last a decade than a tidal wave of garbage that costs the same in the end.
Fashion changes fast and therefore does it make sense to sell more expensive clothes that last? Many people want what is fashionable this season, not wear the same things for years.
In terms of environmental impact and use of resources I suspect that there is a sweet spot between not lasting at all and very long lasting (like there probably is for appliances and about everything else that people will replace after x months/years anyway) Likewise, "fixable" may incur overheads that actually negate the a priori benefit.
The reason these customers had a higher per capita revenue was that they bought something pretty much every week of the year.
The thing is, this kind of behaviour is akin to addiction - I recall in more than a few cases concerned partners or parents requesting intervention, and blocking or limiting of accounts - it was up to the retailer how they handled that - we just heard about the ones where they wanted us to do something.
So - clamping down on fast fashion is no bad thing, however it addresses a symptom rather than a root cause, which is principally addictive shopping behaviours bought about by saturated and predatory marketing and depressed populations seeking solace in that momentary rush of dopamine when they hit purchase, waiting for a parcel to arrive like an addict waiting for a fix.
I mean, hell, I’ve lived the behaviour. Never to the extremes that I’ve seen, but compulsive consumption is an easy if temporary quick fix for a hole in the soul. Fashion is the pinnacle of this, as it gives you not just the purchase rush, but the potential esteem boost from wearing your new garments.
The problem remains elsewhere, and more fundamental.
Some of us just like looking good and having variety of clothes o.O.
Not sure what you’re getting at?
Yeah sure, you can get insurance in other countries, but there WILL ALWAYS BE fine print, some random procedure and you're not covered, or out of pocket expense, etc.
With free healthcare, there's no fine print, everything from a allergic reaction, to neurosurgery the cost will always be 0 no matter what.
Incredible how you claim Switzerland has the highest QOL, yet don't know the basics about the country.
Yes, no, not anymore, no.
And even those costs are relative - sometimes when I travel I end up in places which are definitely not cheaper. And that's coming from somebody living in 1 of 2 most expensive spots within Suisse. Some more rural places are cheaper to live in than most big European cities.
Hacker: They can stop us calling it the sausage though. Apparently it’s going to be called the emulsified, high-fat offal tube.
Fast fashion seems to be one of the problems the metaverse could solve.
In the pandemic, many people moved more and more of their social life online. Not 100% of it, but quite a bit more than before.
If less people would buy real clothes every season and just show off digital clothes online, this could solve the overproduction issue.
You can still signal being wealthy or stylish online, but nobody would actually have to sew all that stuff.
People want to be “in” and will pay or perform tasks to get the things that show theyre in
Great human coordination tool
Very little of substance in the article. I wonder if this is a “baptists and bootleggers” moment for greens and Euro clothing industry?
https://www.fairify.io/en/brands/ has been a great help finding sustainable brands. A bit sad Levi’s is only a C though, I like their jeans.
New cars are disproportionately expensive too. Shrugs. I think it's okay that not everyone can afford everything new, as long as they can afford enough to not be further disadvantaged.
Since the 50s we've seen races to the bottom with clothes, homeware, furniture. It's all lovely shiny and new and when we've decided we need to change it, we burn or throw into a hole in the ground. Fashion has invented its own mechanisms and sub-industry to make sure things aren't just disposable, but that people want to throw them away. It's disgusting.
We don't do that with cars. We demand that cars are serviceable. Older cars doesn't carry stigma (unless they're clapped out). We need to start demanding the same from everything we buy.
First, this will revive the second-hand market, which is where you got clothes for cheap in the past.
Second, The absolute price for a clothing item is not really relevant without considering its lifespan.
A metric of sorts "square meter of fabric per year" per capita would be more useful, and the super cheap clothes don't look good at all here. Even poor people will not wear a super cheap shirt for years, when other people throw it away after 2 weeks.
With the exception of children's clothes. These unfortunately get hit with all issues: 1. Kids are more active and will stain/tear them more often than adults. 2. They grow out quickly, limiting initial lifespan. 3. Due to point 1, it's hard to resell things past the baby stage.
Also, second-hand markets here are already large and could become even larger. Searching for "used kids clothes" on Ebay shows 350k results.
Create a standardised quality ranking of cloth longevity/repairability and force the manufacturers to display it prominently and accurately.
Why would the law prohibit me from buying a $1 shirt that lasts 1 week and instead buy a $50 shirt that lasts a year?
The effect will be identical to that achieved by reusable grocery store bag laws. Tons and tons of extra waste, as well as taxing the poor more.
Because society has to bear the cost of the environmental degredation of manufacturing and disposing of that $1 shirt. The price signal doesn't include the externalities.
A satisfied customer
I mean denim is already a renewable resource. Recycling old denim costs energy just like producing new denim.
It’s like people who feel good about putting plastic in the recycling bin even though most of it ends up in landfills.
[0] https://www.craghoppers.com/
What makes it different than a budget T-shirt that you wear multiple times?
Fast fashion is more about how clothes are marketed than the inherent properties of the clothing itself.
At least how I learned about it was the fast turnaround from design to store to capitalize on a trend.
Instead of it taking 6-9 months from initial design to manufacture to store placement, you could design quickly, outsource to global manufacturers and have new designs in store in 2-3 months.
Not sure how that’s more wasteful than traditional clothing. It all depends on often you buy new clothes?
I’m fine with Levi jeans, but all other clothing items seem to be crappy cotton/spandex blends of poor quality fabric, no matter if you spend $15 or $150 on a garment. It’s very frustrating, I’d rather just buy quality stuff that lasts, but I’m unable to find any quality clothing. Hopefully this legislation encourages clothing manufacturers to use quality fabrics and construction again.
But I totally agree on t-shirts - I've been trying to find good ones for a while and each company ended up being a disappointment. American Apparel seems to survive the longest, but I got a recommendation to try one of the online-ordered tailored items. I've used those for shirts and was very happy in the past... it seems like an overkill for t-shirts but I'll give it a go.
This should be applied not only to clothing, but really everything. I would expect the first result would be no single use plastics anywhere.
Obviously the cost of the change would be transferred to consumers on the purchase price. However we are already paying it in a deferred manner with the degradation of the natural world.
It requires importers and producers of electrical and electronic equipment to be a member of a return company like Norsirk or RENAS[2], directly funding the collection, recycling and waste handling.
Something similar could be introduced for other product groups as well like clothes.
[1]: https://norsirk.no/produsentansvar/lover-og-regler/om-avfall...
[2]: https://renas.no/
If they choose to put the waste in to a landfill, then so be it: they have to pay to do that.
easier to repair
Yeah, put down your phones and pick up your needle and thread, ladies. Good luck with that. Maybe the 19th century wasn't so bad.
I am glad that you recognized that idea that modern clothing should be "repairable" as insane and regressive. Its a pretty good demonstration of why alot of "anti-materialist/consumerist" rhetoric is, in my estimate, actually harmful. They're making a policy out of reducing the standard of living.
This helps no one.
That only indicates what the quality was a long time ago. I’ve seen far too many brands and products go from good quality to poor quality over the years. Good quality sold N years ago says nothing about the quality currently sold, unfortunately.
>> In January 2021, Uniqlo shirts were blocked at the US border over concerns of violations related to a ban on cotton products produced in the Xinjiang region of China due to reports of forced labour. A protest was filed by Uniqlo's parent company Fast Retailing, but was denied.
>> In March 2022, Fast Retailing decided to remain in the Russian market despite Russia's attack on Ukraine saying that clothing is a "necessity of life".
I'm not sure what to do. It might be time to switch to an online source, but then I can't "pinch the fabric" as easily - have to return what I don't like. Wish there was a source with fabric specs, but I have little hope. As it is you can barely get the manufacturers to fess up the material blend, hiding it in between a bunch of other tags in fine print or in weird spots.
The same goes for LL Bean (killed their lifetime warranty, product quality went way downhill) and Filson (they even killed their slogan "Might as Well Have the Best".)
I'm not sure what's left, to be honest; let me know if anyone knows if high quality clothes still exist anymore.
These businesses have extremely high markups because they spend lots of money on marketing or marketing-adjacent things, plain and simple. It’s typically quite easy to see - around the same time that they’ll shift from made in the USA with a lifetime warranty they’ll start paying “influencers”, hiring marketers, sending things to blogs, maintaining a beefed-up social media presence, increasing ad spend etc. They simultaneously cut material costs by outsourcing and raise marketing spend. Their profit margin may not even be changed - but with the higher growth rates that the marketing spend brings the business is more appealing.
There’s no reason you can’t get quality goods at reasonable prices. LL Bean, although not cheap, was reasonably priced before they slashed quality a few years ago. Darn Tough is not cheap but the prices aren’t crazy and they’re made in the USA with a lifetime guarantee. American Apparel was 100% made in the USA until some years back and was solid quality. Los Angeles Apparel is 100% MiUSA and solid quality, prices are fairly reasonable. Clothing just doesn’t cost that much to make; MiUSA and good quality is possible, it just needs to make a comeback.
I'm wondering about the impact of ecommerce now though, especially higher return rates.
I don't think that American Apparel was bankrupted by MiUSA - now that they've switched away from MiUSA they seem to be a shadow of their former self. In any case, from 1989 to 2014 was a solid run, and their 2014 demise was quickly followed by other MiUSA companies copying a similar model. I think MiUSA can work - Darn Tough, LA Apparel, New Balance, Allen Edmonds, etc.
I think you may have a point with return rates - with lower markups you'd be more affected.
Avoid outlets or "factory" stores (clothes are made specifically for outlets.) Avoid J.Crew, Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, H&M, TJ Maxx, the Gap. Avoid anything that's gone bankrupt, or been acquired (JC Penney.) Avoid pretty much everything on Amazon.
One decent sign of quality is the thickness of the materials. Some manufacturers will actually note the weight (in gsm or grams per m2.) I have the exact t-shirt in 160gsm and 300gsm from the same company and the 300gsm feels way more substantial/high quality/will last longer. It's also the only t-shirt I've ever gotten compliments on. Of course, higher weights are also warmer. Another decent sign is the materials themselves. Avoid anything plastic-based (nylon, polyester, acrylic, microfiber, etc.) Some materials I love and would recommend in some cases (cashmere, silk, merino wool) but are less durable, so avoid those if you're going for uncool and reliable. High quality cotton and wool, depending on how it's woven, can last forever. Leather starts to age, but if you take care of it it can be a good look.
Also, don't have unrealistic expectations. Even the "best overall running shoe of 2022" from RunRepeat (who do serious running shoe reviews, tear them down etc) - is only expected to last 400-500 miles. Things have a finite lifespan.
You can also make a significant difference by how you wash your clothes. Washing gentle on cold (or hand washing) can make some clothes last several times longer, easily.
If you do all those things (buy high quality to start, made from wool/cotton/leather, wash gentle on cold) you can get 10 years out of a piece of clothing if you don't wear it too often. I've gotten a couple hundred wears over 10+ years out of several LL Bean shirts myself.
Made in USA, absolutely amazing quality. The entire end-to-end supply chain from cotton to thread in the USA.
https://www.american-giant.com/
Bonobos for shirts and jeans
Pt01 and Pt05 for pants (sales are up to 50%)
Pure Waste for t-shirts and colleges
Asket and Everlane for everything else
- We (their men stores)
- Uniqlo