Does anyone have a comprehensive guide for Canon DSLRs on MacOS on M1? The Canon drivers to use as a webcam are nightmarish and my friends had a hell of a time trying to get it to work.
I’ve solved most compatibility problems with several camera brands (and their drivers) by simply using a hardware HDMI->USB video capture/processing card or stick. Then I can mount it as a generic video device and not install drivers at all, allowing me to switch cameras out at will.
FYI, online reviews say the Atomos Connect is just a repackaged version of the same generic HDMI-to-USB converters with the ms2109 chip that sell for $10-20 on Amazon (like the one linked in the original article).
The recently viral “USB hubs drove me crazy” post forced me to realize that all commodity outboard consumer hardware are probably identically sourced boards/chips, with western branding responsible for the markup— but this one survived where a previous cheaper one failed, YMMV.
As I understand, the drivers (webcam utility? not sure) are built for x86. For some reason they don't work in apps which are built for M1, so the camera only works if an app which needs a video is running in emulation mode.
So, if you want to use Canon DSLR on M1 in a web browser (e.g. google meet), get a browser built for x86.
I'm using Chromium, it can be downloaded for x86. The issue is that Chromium doesn't have screen share feature. So, for screen share, I'm using Chrome, and joining the call for the second time, in "companion mode". That's 2 separate browsers to participate in a call. Maybe there is a way to get Chrome or Firefox for x86, but I was a bit too lazy when setting it up :)
Another reason to not use a DSLR is that many (all?) have timeouts (<30min) in their video mode due to some import tax reason, even when hooked up to a computer.
Atleast this is what I found when I tried a canon DSLR with canons webcam software.
That's only if you actually hit the record button and are actively recording to the memory card, but if you're using the DSLR as a passthrough, it works all day. I have done it w/ my Sony a6500 and it works really well.
Sony cameras work (as mentioned below) but nearly every mirrorless or dslr I’ve used does this by default or can be set up to by switching to continuous AF modes. This is best done while connected to a power source, as the motors drain battery faster.
This changed in 2019 IIRC. The EU changed its regulation and the 30 minute record limit no longer applies. Furthermore, it was always possible to install custom firmware on many cameras that bypassed this limit. Record limits due to temperature and overheating, though, is a different story.
"Digital cameras that are only capable of recording still images remain classified in this subheading. Cameras of this subheading may also have video-capture capability to record continuous periods of video. However, when such apparatus are capable, using the maximum storage capacity, of capturing video in a quality of 800 x 600 pixels (or higher) at 23 frames per second (or higher) for a continuous period of at least 30 minutes (regardless of the fact that the captured video images may be recorded in separate files of a duration of less than 30 minutes) they are always to be classified in subheadings 8525 80 91 or 8525 80 99."
Is it such a big issue? My Canon DSLR turns off every 30min, but that's only for a couple of seconds, it then turns back on. On a positive side, it's now easy to notice when 30min or 1hr meeting is running over, it's a nice reminder :)
Yep, I'm using a Pixel 2 with both DroidCamX and DroidCam OBS (with OBS' virtual camera), I can second that claim.
I occasionally use a Nexus 6 on another setup, but it's a bit bulkier to mount and is a bit finicky with DroidCamX. It has froze up on me a couple times. The OBS version works fine, though. I'll chalk it up to not cleaning up the phone prior to repurposing it.
But a new problem emerges. Your face is now larger than other faces in the meeting. When the view splits everyone into the grid, your face will be the odd one out.
I don't think it's important for your face to be 50mm photo quality portrait photography for a work meeting. Sometimes when the meeting window is full screen, I reduce its size because I don't want my colleague's faces up close in my face!
Also why do people stare directly into the camera the whole time? I don't get that. I have my laptop off to the side slightly, and use main monitors for other work during meetings, or for viewing the meeting if someone is sharing their screen. Just like in real life meetings, we don't stare directly into each other's faces the whole time. I guess personal preference in these things will vary.
Don't iPhones do that annoying thing where it shows your image flipped the wrong way when you use the selfie camera? Selfie cameras should always behave like a mirror, in my opinion. It's how humans are used to seeing themselves.
I forget if that's the default or not, but if it is you can disable it. You ideally wouldn't use the selfie camera, though; the rear camera has a bigger sensor and a better lens.
I repurposed my old 6s and I gotta say the quality is excellent. And the free version of the software has more than enough for most people, so this could very well be a completely free upgrade for someone.
I do have a lifetime license, and have tested it with my 12 pro and while it obviously looks better, most of the time I stay with the 6s and default settings since I can just leave it mounted on top of my monitor.
This looks neat. It seems like it requires you to install software on the system, which is often (usually?) not an option.
Is there anything like this that shows up as a webcam without additional software that doesn't come with the OS (i.e., uses a driver already available on Windows, Linux, ChromeOS like most webcams such as the Logitech C920 do) ?
I just switched from an old apple cinema display to a modern monitor with small bezels, so I need to cut a new one to stop it from blocking the top of my screen.
I've got a lego stand built from a few bricks holding an iPhone 7 in landscape above my screen. The lens is maybe 18mm above the top of the display pixels.
These $10 selfie sticks with handles that open into a stand are actually great and much more compact and portable when closed than even a small tripod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B6QHZK5
Changed out the mount to work with my USB webcam and it works a treat. Obviously it won't work with a heavy mirrorless camera - but there are tons of mini tripods out there - the Joby Gorillapod's and their numerous clones are among my favorites due to their flexibility.
camo is great. I was doing what the OP outlines at the beginning of the pandemic with an a6000 and a $10 ebay hdmi capture card. It looked 10% better than camo for 100% more effort.
Some camera manufacturers offer software that uses your mirrorless camera to emulate a webcam without requiring a capture card.
For example, Fujifilm's X Webcam software[1] would allow the author to connect his X-S10 to his PC using a USB-C cable, and use it as a webcam. The downside is X Webcam lacks support for Linux.
I used this for a while with my D850. It installed okay and worked, technically. I stopped using it for video calls because it was a hassle positioning the relatively heavy DSLR on my desk during calls and because it eats cam batteries for breakfast (you need a power lead that that slots into the battery location on the camera, which I don't own).
The (free) version of the webcam utility doesn't give you full tethered photographic control of the camera, which might have made it more useful to me.
Early into the pandemic, I was experimenting with an Elgato Cam Link as an alternative to a webcam. However, I never got the setup to work reliably with MacOS and MS Teams (e.g., random disconnects). Has this changed over the years and become a good solution suitable for daily usage? Currently, I'm using a Logitech Brio with two video lights; the quality isn't amazing but at least everything works out of the box.
I have the Elgato FaceCam and it's absolutely fantastic on the Mac. Zero issues, great adjustability, good quality (much better than a laptop webcam, not quite as good as an iPhone/"real" camera.
+1 I wish I could make the Elgato Cam Link 4k more reliable. Some days it is flawless and then other days during an important meeting, I have to keep resetting the USB dongle.
If you're willing to throw $1000 at a "proper camera" of the sort the author recommends, then sure, it would be very disappointing if it didn't outperform the webcam built in to most laptops or phones.
But is there a "proper camera" for under $100 that can also offer an improvement over a webcam?
Not only that, you can have a decade old DSLRs on ebay for <$200. I already happened to have a D7000 from when it was new. Checking on ebay that same (very serviceable) model seems to cost $150~$250. Of course, that might mean a high shutter count, but for the usecase of a webcam, as long as it can capture an image it will work great.
Not for $100, but a Sony A5100 with 16-50 lens can be bought for $400 over here, and will produce a great image. It is very similar to the A6000 but it a bit more compact, less features and a cheaper build.
Canon's EOS Webcam Utility supports cameras down to the EOS 1100D, which, depending on your level of luck, you can find used under $100. Then all you need is a kit lens which can be found for very very cheap nowadays. Or, if you really think you won't be moving much, just get a super cheap vintage one.
Eh, I've had mixed results with Canon's EOS Webcam Utility and my Rebel T7.
I didn't see this documented anywhere, but apparently it's built only for Intel-based Macs. It'll still work on Apple Silicon, but only if the application using it is also built for Intel-based Macs. So you'd want to ensure you install the Intel-based version of Zoom, and then be careful to avoid it auto-updating to the version for Apple Silicon.
I bought a license for Cascable's Pro Webcam, and it mostly worked, but I'd often have issues getting it to initially connect to the camera and it'd sometimes cut out unexpectedly.
Give Camera Live[1] a shot. Canon's own software doesn't support my ancient Rebel TSi so I have to use this one instead, but it's worked really well for me. It connects using Syphon so matching up architecture shouldn't matter (and it works under Rosetta).
I use Syphon Virtual Webcam[2] to feed to Zoom, but you can also use OBS.
It's under 10fps for most of the cheap models. And unless you don't move at all the focal point of the kit lens is going to make the video almost useless. Autofocus on these cameras can't follow as fast as necessary for live video.
I have played with EOS webcam utility in the past and if you are not ready to spend big, DSLR is not the way to go.
I find it interesting that so many people talking about autofocus. My set up has everything on manual focus, and unless I use a 1.8f aperture, there's no need to change things unless I materially change the way I seat.
At that budget you’d be better served getting a cheap lighting kit and a small to help push your webcam to its limits. Mount the webcam at eye level, pick a classic portrait lighting setup, and make every pixel work for you.
$100 can get you an excellent microphone with a boom arm and that will be appreciated by your colleagues much more than being able to count your stubble in 4K 60 fps.
I actually don't want colleagues to be able to inspect my face in immaculate detail, and the amount of ceremony and awkward stands begind the monitor, etc. do not make sence to me. The more expensive webcams do a decent enough job.
The key to the better quality is not camera, it's light.
A dedicated camera with a fast lens has three key improvements over a typical webcam:
- bokeh
- less noise in the dark, better dynamic range (almost irrelevant for a webcam)
- less compressed video (potentially), which is critical for chroma keying; certain USB3 webcams can deliver a much less compressed stream as well.
If you're willing to sacrifice bokeh and don't need chroma keying, $100 or slightly more can buy you light sources to make you look substantially better on your under $100 webcam. And without proper lighting, the proper camera is useless as well.
Some other steps to look good on a webcam: choose a good lighting scheme, use proper camera settings, do some color correction; a color calibration card helps with this immensely, even a cheap one. Use the virtual webcam in OBS with a LUT generated from your card, control your scene with a vectorscope plugin. Voila, you just upgraded your look to a 100x more professional one, using just a simple webcam.
Keep in mind that you need much (and by this I mean MUCH) more lighting than you probably think you do. And possibly blackout shutters or curtains to completely block the outside light, making your lighting controlled.
Not quite $100 but I see the aging yet highly-regarded, video-centric Panasonic GH4 sold used for as little as $200 without a lens. This is the camera many small-midsize video production outfits have stuck to for a >decade. There are many (often fairly good) generic lenses for the 4/3” sensor mount it uses, and the camera is known for having a clean Full HD HDMI out. I can see building a setup like this for as little as $300-400. Add a $40-$100 LED light mounted on the camera and you’ve improved your video presence by 10x for less than $500.
Phone cameras are very good but owing much of it to the DSP and software. An iPhone camera will not produce iPhone quality photos without the chipset and OS.
oh, that's for economic reasons. The industrial and desktop consumer computer vision markets are orders of magnitude smaller and their development cycle times orders of magnitude longer.
I looked into this a while ago- trying to use gcam technology for scientific imaging- when I worked at Google, and there was zero interest from those teams. They were 100% focused on next-gen camera tech (and it showed- that was the period when phones got unbelievably good at taking high quality images using computational photography).
Phones have just an image sensor with a direct interface to the CPU, with a driver plus a ton of software running on the CPU to enhance quality. You can get good cameras with modern image sensors with usb interface. Note that they need a local controller to well, control them and provide a usb interface, and need firmware for the local controller and need to provide a driver or support for a standard API at the USB end. The market is tiny compared to phones, so for those reasons you can't buy a usb camera with the same low cost and high performance as what is in your smartphone.
That being said, you can buy good usb cameras based on many modern image sensors from a company like e-con[1], but you have to do research about what features are enabled by the driver.
I'm not sure why actual webcams including a way to mount on your monitor are so far behind and expensive. Logitech C920 is still a common recommendation, and it's now 10 years old!
Extra note here, I've been running my olympus em5 mk-2 with the drivers Olympus released to run it as a web camera and its been working just fine, out of the box. I got an extra dummy battery to power it (cannot be powered though usb) so I have no worries of it dying during a long meeting.
in a remote office world, I'm glad my team leaves their cameras on and I view it as a form of professionalism to present myself as best I can, and if that's not following a dress code and keeping trim in an office, its giving good video quality in online meetings.
I'm also using an E m5 mk2 on macos, with the battery holder grip and 25mm lens. I'm happy with the image but the software is pretty bad, isn't it? There's a substantial lag between the audio and video which is disconcerting to the viewer. And the video stream doesn't reliably start. I usually have to flip the video off and on a few dozen times in the Zoom app before it begins working.
Aside from that the cost of the Very Special USB Cable is a real insult.
I haven't had the same experience at all, perhaps its because I'm on windows? I also don't use my camera as my audio source. I use my laptop microphone for now, with plans to get an external microphone. I just use the usb cable that came with the camera, I never had to purchase it separately.
The battery I use is one that uses the shell of a matching battery but provides a wired 8V DC through a usb SMPS, 20$ from aliexpress and I never have to worry about it.
Only thing I find annoying about Droidcam is that I end up having to reinstall the audio and video drivers on Linux every week or so, either due to updates, restarts, or PulseAudio breaking.
"...the A6400 seems to be slightly better as a webcam."
Contact me if you want to buy mine! I bought mine at the start of quarantine for streaming live video at my local church but haven't really used it much since.
Why does my Go Pro Hero 9 Black not work as a webcam with anything other than Cisco WebEx on MacOS? I can't get it to work with OBS or Discord on Mac, and I can't get any video from it on Windows. It's a fucking mess.
Actually I prefer not to show face during any meeting. So probably won't buy an extra camera just for that. However, could be useful once I'm semi-retired and start streaming retro gaming.
errrr... no they aren't. The 24-85 I have on my Nikon D600 is extremely sharp. The 18-55 on most DX Nikons is also pin sharp. For a webcam it surely doesn't even matter?
I agree with you. For use as a webcam, however, the author is probably after a much shallower depth of field than kit lenses generally provide, so opts for a fast prime lens.
One thing that I’ve been trying to educate my colleagues about (including the A/V folks!) is that one can bypass the need to fiddle with drivers by using a generic hardware HDMI -> USB video conversion stick utilizing the mirrorless/DSLR’s HDMI output. It’ll mount as a generic video input that Zoom/Teams/OBS can use. You can find these for $40-$100 and it allows one to switch out hardware brands at will without installing drivers. And don’t forget that it opens up a world of filmmaking mics to complete the package, and sends it all on one cable!
I’ve used Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Panasonic, and I think even a gopro once successfully using this method.
Edit - added mic suggestion
Also: this works for me on Win/Mac, but I’ve not tried Linux yet.
I just failed at this recently. Apparently the camera needs to support "clean HDMI out," which many don't. Mine (for example) has HDMI out, but it's for like a "preview" screen for a photographer--it doesn't just output a clean, high-res HDMI stream.
Yes, that is a gotcha, as some of the cheaper or older camera models have no HDMI out or the require proprietary conversion with a vendor driver. I haven’t run into this often myself yet since most people I know have been buying newer and more video focused cameras over the past couple years.
EDIT - For your case perhaps using camera settings to minimize the data (ISO/aperture/shutter etc) being shown on on the screen works well enough to use what you have?
> EDIT - For your case perhaps using camera settings to minimize the data (ISO/aperture/shutter etc) being shown on on the screen works well enough to use what you have?
I saw a few threads with that suggestion, but I wasn't able to minimize the data being shown, or confirmation that anyone with a Rebel T7 was able to do it.
I was able to do this on my Rebel T7i by switching to manual focus, and then selecting the "info" button a couple of times to remove the overlay. There might have been some other changes I made, like turning off the grid overlay, but I think just the first two changes were enough though.
EDIT: I mean it'd probably be OK if I were just shooting a video--I can fumble through it connecting unreliably, or just do another take if it unexpectedly disconnects. But I'm doing multiple video calls a day, and the webcam built-in to my monitor "just works" every time. It's tough to justify the additional complexity for something that isn't working reliably.
That's why I started leaning toward "Clean HDMI". With that method, as long as the HDMI capture device works, everything should "just work" on the Mac side, and as long as the camera can output clean HDMI, it should also "just work." I'm not dealing with a poorly-supported software webcam utility, special USB signaling, or annoying inactivity timeouts.
But it looks like I'll need a different camera, and it won't be cheap, but at least it's an option.
It's not ideal but I've circumvented this by disabling automatic focus and other things that add visible elements to the preview, and the just using the preview's 720p output. It's a hassle and you'll have to manually adjust the focus so that everything's not blurry, but the end result quality is quite good.
Different, I think. It's a Canon but I don't it wasn't bought by me and I don't have it right now so can't check the exact model, sorry. Quick googling suggests that it can be done with Rebel too: https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART17...
This is the gap I hit, after trying to set up an old Canon G11 (released 2009) as an alternative to a webcam for my partner's Twitch streaming. It has a micro-HDMI port on the side of it, but only for reviewing photos— it doesn't pass through the live viewfinder image, and it appears there may be hardware limitations which prevent that from ever being possible, even with the various hacked up firmware options like CHDK/Magic Lantern [1].
For the case of some older Nikon models, like my D7000, it is not possible to get "Clean HDMI" from the stock firmware, but there are options to patch the firmware[1][2] to get this. I use this with an HDMI to USB dongle[5], a wired battery pack[4], the aforementioned D7000 and any of the lenses I already owned. I've found that 35mm is a bit too tight given the length of my desk where the camera is mounted[3], but 20mm-24mm is about what works well for me at the moment.
The biggest problem with my setup is that when I open OBS I need to disconnect and reconnect the dongle before OBS will pick it up. Until I figured out how to repeatably get that working it was... more trouble than it was worth. I need OBS because the version of the patched firmware I'm running produces a non standard aspect ratio that I adjust for in OBS, at the cost of a more involved setup and extra CPU utilization. If I used the patched firmware that removes the fixes that (I haven't tried it yet), I would likely forego OBS for meetings.
This is the method I use, in conjunction with the Sony ZV-1 which gets a mention in the article. It also bypasses the problem mentioned in the article about turning up as a mass storage device.
What I've found is that by USB charging and using HDMI out, it's good for ~2.5 hours of streaming, which I've only ever hit once as a limit.
there's a newer Sony in the same line (the ZV-E10) but it moved the ports to the other side of the camera, so if you flick the LCD round so you can see it, the cables are in the way...
With my a6300 I actually managed to get a week (!) of constant streaming and USB charging out of it. I use a USB data blocker to enforce USB charging only, it works incredibly well.
I've been using ZV-1 with Cam Link for almost 2 years now. It can be powered indefinitely with a good micro USB cable and a reliable 2A+ power supply. I often have all day back-to-back meetings so I don't bother to turn it off. Otherwise a dummy battery is an option.
If you enable PC Remote Function [1] it disables UMS so you don't need another cable/adapter plugged in. I notified the author and he updated the article.
> You can find these for $40-$100 and it allows one to switch out hardware brands at will without installing drivers.
The cheap ones (as little as eight bucks) all use the same all-in-one HDMI-receiver-MJPEG-encoding-USB-device chip; it's not perfect, but they do actually support 1080p at 30 fps.
is the quality at least comparable to what i can get from a mid-range webcam?
because that is what this is competing with for someone like me who already has the necessary camera, but also needs a webcam occasionally.
They're generally pretty reliable but an issue to be aware of is that the cheaper ones can have quite high latency (0.5s or more). This means for Zoom etc you will have to choose between audio/video being desynced and more awkward conversation (if interactive discussion is more important than presenting).
At least my Fuji X-T4 insists on its own driver that makes use of live view video the camera sends via some proprietary protocol and exposes that as a virtual webcam. It doesn't do USB webcam sadly.
Ditto. I'm currently using an old Nikon D5100 with a generic HMDI->USB input stick ($15), a generic USB-->battery adaptor ($35) and a custom firmware (to remove borders and menus) from https://nikonhacker.com/
The body is old enough to not car about voiding warranties by using a generic battery adaptor and custom firmware.
Maybe it's a bit overkill, but I use a Fuji X-T4 + Fuji 10-24mm lens as a webcam. At around $2500 definitely not cheap but it gets the job done magnificently. Additionally, the Fuji X Webcam software allows me to switch between Fuji's film simulations, adjust color temperature and exposure on the fly. The cam is mounted on a Manfrotto ballhead tripod behind my monitor.
I repurposed my old Fujifilm X100F as webcam with the Elgato cam link 4k and dummy battery during the pandemic-- video quality received heavy compliments on Zoom. The setup was working fine until I upgraded my desktop rig. Seems Cam link doesn't play nice with the new Mac Studios.
Having done exactly this, my main annoyance is that you have to manually power on and off the camera, which means losing whatever zoom and settings you had configured.
There are proper cameras which don't remember settings across power cycles and battery swaps? Curious. Never heard of that before, that's a complete deal-breaker for actually, y'know', using a camera to me. Perhaps the SRAM battery/capacitor in yours is just dead? (Then again, not exactly sure how that happens, I've used 15+ year old Nikon DSLRs and they had no trouble with Alzheimers)
Some newer compact zooms aren't manual, but zoom by wire. They usually retract when the camera is turned off. This is also the case for most compact cameras, which maybe the GP is talking about, because technically they're also "proper" cameras".
This is actually an issue I've got with the a6300 and the Sony 18-105mm f/4.0 G lens, because it's a zoom-by-wire lens and forgets the zoom setting after every restart.
The very first one in the list of recommendations - the a6X00 series.
Theres also the annoyance of actually powering the thing on and off in the first place, which must be near universal. As it is, I use a USB "fake-battery" and just disable that. But its still something I have to manually do instead of the OS just "activating" it.
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[ 5.5 ms ] story [ 334 ms ] threadSo, if you want to use Canon DSLR on M1 in a web browser (e.g. google meet), get a browser built for x86.
I'm using Chromium, it can be downloaded for x86. The issue is that Chromium doesn't have screen share feature. So, for screen share, I'm using Chrome, and joining the call for the second time, in "companion mode". That's 2 separate browsers to participate in a call. Maybe there is a way to get Chrome or Firefox for x86, but I was a bit too lazy when setting it up :)
The categories are still defined the same way: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=OJ:... (Ctrl+F "8525 80 30")
"Digital cameras that are only capable of recording still images remain classified in this subheading. Cameras of this subheading may also have video-capture capability to record continuous periods of video. However, when such apparatus are capable, using the maximum storage capacity, of capturing video in a quality of 800 x 600 pixels (or higher) at 23 frames per second (or higher) for a continuous period of at least 30 minutes (regardless of the fact that the captured video images may be recorded in separate files of a duration of less than 30 minutes) they are always to be classified in subheadings 8525 80 91 or 8525 80 99."
…but the duty was reduced from 2.5% to 1.6% for "video cameras" (8525 80 91), and from 3.5% to 0% for "camcorders" (8525 80 99): https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/en/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELE...
People are often misinformed about EU laws, but on the other hand the EU has no shortage of ridiculous laws that give fodder to the euroskeptics.
In this case, it DOES look like the 30 minute limit is the EU's fault[1]. Thankfully it ended in 2019.
[1]: https://www.fujirumors.com/yes-eu-import-duty-reason-fujifil...
For those with no camera, DroidCamX works rather well too!
I occasionally use a Nexus 6 on another setup, but it's a bit bulkier to mount and is a bit finicky with DroidCamX. It has froze up on me a couple times. The OBS version works fine, though. I'll chalk it up to not cleaning up the phone prior to repurposing it.
Also I found out that the difference in image quality between a good webcam and a semi-professional camera is not that big after video compression.
Apart from that it's pearls before swine - any mm² of sensor area above 1/4" OF doesn't matter for MS Teams video crushing.
But a new problem emerges. Your face is now larger than other faces in the meeting. When the view splits everyone into the grid, your face will be the odd one out.
I don't think it's important for your face to be 50mm photo quality portrait photography for a work meeting. Sometimes when the meeting window is full screen, I reduce its size because I don't want my colleague's faces up close in my face!
Also why do people stare directly into the camera the whole time? I don't get that. I have my laptop off to the side slightly, and use main monitors for other work during meetings, or for viewing the meeting if someone is sharing their screen. Just like in real life meetings, we don't stare directly into each other's faces the whole time. I guess personal preference in these things will vary.
I was so impressed I bought a used iPhone to use solely as a webcam; the whole setup was cheaper than the Logitech C920 he mentions.
The picture quality is great.
I do have a lifetime license, and have tested it with my 12 pro and while it obviously looks better, most of the time I stay with the 6s and default settings since I can just leave it mounted on top of my monitor.
It’s waay better.
I only use default settings. Quality trumps anything I tried before.
Added bonus: I cannot use the phone when in a call.
https://youtu.be/U4j88uwoKZw
Is there anything like this that shows up as a webcam without additional software that doesn't come with the OS (i.e., uses a driver already available on Windows, Linux, ChromeOS like most webcams such as the Logitech C920 do) ?
https://imgur.com/a/InImQFo
I just switched from an old apple cinema display to a modern monitor with small bezels, so I need to cut a new one to stop it from blocking the top of my screen.
https://www.shopmoment.com/products/wall-mount-for-magsafe/s...
Changed out the mount to work with my USB webcam and it works a treat. Obviously it won't work with a heavy mirrorless camera - but there are tons of mini tripods out there - the Joby Gorillapod's and their numerous clones are among my favorites due to their flexibility.
For example, Fujifilm's X Webcam software[1] would allow the author to connect his X-S10 to his PC using a USB-C cable, and use it as a webcam. The downside is X Webcam lacks support for Linux.
[1] https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/software/x-webcam/
Z 9, Z 7II, Z 7, Z 6II, Z 6, Z 5, Z fc, Z 50, D6, D5, D850, D810, D780, D750, D500, D7500, D7200, D5600, D5500, D5300 and D3500.
I think the Z 50 (and updated, but cheaper construction Z fc) are the cheapest options here out of the mirrorless cameras.
[0]: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/webcam-utility...
[1]: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/548/Webca...
The (free) version of the webcam utility doesn't give you full tethered photographic control of the camera, which might have made it more useful to me.
I have a setup much like the article, Sony A5100.
But is there a "proper camera" for under $100 that can also offer an improvement over a webcam?
no just buy an off the shelf web camera if that's all you're willing to budget.
but for those of us with these cameras already becuase we enjoy photography, this dual use is quite nice!
I didn't see this documented anywhere, but apparently it's built only for Intel-based Macs. It'll still work on Apple Silicon, but only if the application using it is also built for Intel-based Macs. So you'd want to ensure you install the Intel-based version of Zoom, and then be careful to avoid it auto-updating to the version for Apple Silicon.
I bought a license for Cascable's Pro Webcam, and it mostly worked, but I'd often have issues getting it to initially connect to the camera and it'd sometimes cut out unexpectedly.
I use Syphon Virtual Webcam[2] to feed to Zoom, but you can also use OBS.
[1] https://github.com/v002/v002-Camera-Live
[2] https://github.com/TroikaTronix/Syphon-Virtual-Webcam
I have played with EOS webcam utility in the past and if you are not ready to spend big, DSLR is not the way to go.
https://medium.com/@sukeshgtambi/24-portrait-character-light...
I actually don't want colleagues to be able to inspect my face in immaculate detail, and the amount of ceremony and awkward stands begind the monitor, etc. do not make sence to me. The more expensive webcams do a decent enough job.
A dedicated camera with a fast lens has three key improvements over a typical webcam:
- bokeh
- less noise in the dark, better dynamic range (almost irrelevant for a webcam)
- less compressed video (potentially), which is critical for chroma keying; certain USB3 webcams can deliver a much less compressed stream as well.
If you're willing to sacrifice bokeh and don't need chroma keying, $100 or slightly more can buy you light sources to make you look substantially better on your under $100 webcam. And without proper lighting, the proper camera is useless as well.
Some other steps to look good on a webcam: choose a good lighting scheme, use proper camera settings, do some color correction; a color calibration card helps with this immensely, even a cheap one. Use the virtual webcam in OBS with a LUT generated from your card, control your scene with a vectorscope plugin. Voila, you just upgraded your look to a 100x more professional one, using just a simple webcam.
Keep in mind that you need much (and by this I mean MUCH) more lighting than you probably think you do. And possibly blackout shutters or curtains to completely block the outside light, making your lighting controlled.
1 - Lighting
2 - Microphone
3 - Camera
Even when you see people on the news through webcams, their pictures and audio often are not well lit or mic'd.
*Edited for grammar.
I looked into this a while ago- trying to use gcam technology for scientific imaging- when I worked at Google, and there was zero interest from those teams. They were 100% focused on next-gen camera tech (and it showed- that was the period when phones got unbelievably good at taking high quality images using computational photography).
That being said, you can buy good usb cameras based on many modern image sensors from a company like e-con[1], but you have to do research about what features are enabled by the driver.
I'm not sure why actual webcams including a way to mount on your monitor are so far behind and expensive. Logitech C920 is still a common recommendation, and it's now 10 years old!
[1]https://www.e-consystems.com/See3CAM-USB-3-Camera.asp
https://opalcamera.com/
Have they given any indication about whether it'll be a standard UVC camera and Just Work on all platforms?
in a remote office world, I'm glad my team leaves their cameras on and I view it as a form of professionalism to present myself as best I can, and if that's not following a dress code and keeping trim in an office, its giving good video quality in online meetings.
Aside from that the cost of the Very Special USB Cable is a real insult.
The battery I use is one that uses the shell of a matching battery but provides a wired 8V DC through a usb SMPS, 20$ from aliexpress and I never have to worry about it.
I’ve put it next to my monitor and put my meeting on the side of the screen so I look “into” the camera.
[0]https://www.dev47apps.com/
Just use `adb`, `ffmpeg` and the `v4l2loopback` kernel module.
Contact me if you want to buy mine! I bought mine at the start of quarantine for streaming live video at my local church but haven't really used it much since.
Twitter or email? My gmail is my username.
Yes the app is $20 but for me it was worth it.
errrr... no they aren't. The 24-85 I have on my Nikon D600 is extremely sharp. The 18-55 on most DX Nikons is also pin sharp. For a webcam it surely doesn't even matter?
I’ve used Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Panasonic, and I think even a gopro once successfully using this method.
Edit - added mic suggestion
Also: this works for me on Win/Mac, but I’ve not tried Linux yet.
There's a web page on Canon's site here:
https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/support/se...
You'll see one list of cameras on there, but at the bottom, you can expand "Clean HDMI", and then you'll see a different list of cameras.
Now I'm debating whether or not I want to spend hundreds of dollars for a DIFFERENT photography camera that support clean HDMI.
EDIT - For your case perhaps using camera settings to minimize the data (ISO/aperture/shutter etc) being shown on on the screen works well enough to use what you have?
I saw a few threads with that suggestion, but I wasn't able to minimize the data being shown, or confirmation that anyone with a Rebel T7 was able to do it.
[1] https://magiclantern.fm/
[1] https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31413073
EDIT: I mean it'd probably be OK if I were just shooting a video--I can fumble through it connecting unreliably, or just do another take if it unexpectedly disconnects. But I'm doing multiple video calls a day, and the webcam built-in to my monitor "just works" every time. It's tough to justify the additional complexity for something that isn't working reliably.
That's why I started leaning toward "Clean HDMI". With that method, as long as the HDMI capture device works, everything should "just work" on the Mac side, and as long as the camera can output clean HDMI, it should also "just work." I'm not dealing with a poorly-supported software webcam utility, special USB signaling, or annoying inactivity timeouts.
But it looks like I'll need a different camera, and it won't be cheap, but at least it's an option.
It should be an AF/MF toggle in the lens.
[1]: https://chdk.fandom.com/wiki/G11
The biggest problem with my setup is that when I open OBS I need to disconnect and reconnect the dongle before OBS will pick it up. Until I figured out how to repeatably get that working it was... more trouble than it was worth. I need OBS because the version of the patched firmware I'm running produces a non standard aspect ratio that I adjust for in OBS, at the cost of a more involved setup and extra CPU utilization. If I used the patched firmware that removes the fixes that (I haven't tried it yet), I would likely forego OBS for meetings.
[1]: https://nikonhacker.com/wiki/Supported_Models
[2]: https://nikonhacker.com/wiki/Nikon_Patch
[3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094N6W6SP
[4]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L8R4NC
[5]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3FN5MR
What I've found is that by USB charging and using HDMI out, it's good for ~2.5 hours of streaming, which I've only ever hit once as a limit.
there's a newer Sony in the same line (the ZV-E10) but it moved the ports to the other side of the camera, so if you flick the LCD round so you can see it, the cables are in the way...
[1] https://helpguide.sony.net/dc/1910/v1/en/contents/TP00028862...
The cheap ones (as little as eight bucks) all use the same all-in-one HDMI-receiver-MJPEG-encoding-USB-device chip; it's not perfect, but they do actually support 1080p at 30 fps.
i found this article https://havecamerawilltravel.com/nikon-d3400-webcam-live-str... that suggests the budget device is workable but obviously doesn't deliver the quality that the camera can provide. but how does it compare to a regular webcam?
It's a bit limited in that it only does 1080p30 and it's not the best quality either.
The body is old enough to not car about voiding warranties by using a generic battery adaptor and custom firmware.
Theres also the annoyance of actually powering the thing on and off in the first place, which must be near universal. As it is, I use a USB "fake-battery" and just disable that. But its still something I have to manually do instead of the OS just "activating" it.
With a use case as repetitive as jumping on a call, the UX is important.