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Modern America baffles me.

People spurn butter, milk and cheese for... oat milk?

For heath reasons? Does no one remember margarine? For ethical reasons... Oatmilk in a Starbucks coffee for ethical reasons is... something.

Give me some slabs of bread, a mix of cheap cheese, butter and a hot pan... some salt and pepper and maybe an in season tomato.

As opposed to an out of season tomato?
Yes? Tomatoes are better in season. Is this controversial?
It's an unusual idiom to be sure. We talk about lots of fruits and foods every day without such qualifiers. Are we to assume OP meant possibly-stale bread because it wasn't explicit?
Plenty of people will only eat in-season tomatoes. I'm not one of them but I certainly understand it. The real thing is so different than the tomato-shaped-objects you get in the supermarket in January that it makes sense to treat them as a different food item. Honestly, I've been using canned tomatoes outside the season more and more, because they retain more flavor than the "fresh" ones that come from a hothouse or 3k miles away.
To offer a different perspective, I'm unable to eat dairy, and I am very grateful that we have seen such a boom in development of non-dairy alternatives over the past 10 years.
There's no money in selling commodities. There's money in selling (proprietary) processed food.
Did they intentionally get close to writing the headline "...who are we to diss a brie"?
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