No they don’t. If anything that crowd is the primary audience for a creative, DIY project like this that has no appreciable impact on the environment. It’s not even a good straw man.
Awhile back I suggested to a friend who was dealing with a tragic loss to watch from the first video as an excellent example of what heathy grieving looks like. An absolutely beautiful channel.
Including sand casting a 350cc V4 two stroke engine block (for a motorcycle). He gets a foundry to do the actual metal pours, but this guy: https://www.youtube.com/@OzBSABantams/videos sand casts cylinder heads and triple clamps on his driveway.
Taking this approach to a certain extreme, there's this video about making a bellhousing adapter to mate a Smart ForTwo EV motor to a vintage Jeep transmission. Raw materials include snowmobile clutch parts, scrap engine parts, and the housing from a dead old Skil saw. After all, once machine tools get involved, everything looks like a billet for something else, and casting is a far more accessible means of metalworking.
Much of the channel is about dragging decrepit artifacts of industry out of scrapyards or the reclaiming jaws of Nature and quite effectively repurposing or reusing the sound bits, which is something I personally find to be creative and satisfying.
Andrew Camarata's channel[0], is a bit like Bjoernstroem's, probably less engineering focused, but lots of operating heavy equipment, construction, blasting, misc electrical work and other odd jobs.
I was looking some time ago (a year or 3) how to de-rust stuff and found out that you do go over the thing with a wire brush, then some acetone, and then you pick up your industrial laser rust remover! Magic happens at step 3 apparently.
...I did good enough on my project - phosphoric acid stuff + a lot of scrubbing.
As someone who started doing things in `meat-space` at the tail end of 2020 I've learnt a lot about YouTube sponsor-fic vs reality.
I have a YT channel which is me documenting stuff I've done. Anyone interested is encouraged to (easily) find it. And this is just to prove that my mouth is exactly where my written word is.
The actual answer to derust stuff without fancy equipment is a wire brush and an Evapo-Rust bath (which is mostly nontoxic and environmentally friendly). Alternatively something like rust bluing https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/restoration-services/rus...
Find me evapo-rust in EU for a not-a-business-buyer yes-2-litres-is-more-than-I'll-ever-need for a decent price and I'll buy you a decent beer or five :-D
Sorry to steer this from rust, but is there a way to cleanly remove factory logo decals? I have a keyboard (instrument). It has what look like very thin white decals that have been heat-treated in to black painted metal at manufacture. I tried Goof Off. I don't know if there is some kind of powerful solvent that might work. I don't want to wire brush it off.
Lacquer thinner is straight up potent stuff and will remove many things, possibly more than you wanted to, including the paint.
As always, try it somewhere unobtrusive first. Use it in a well ventilated area as well.
If the logo is actually adhered on, heat will go a long ways towards loosening many glues. You can buy plastic razor scrapers that'll help lift the logo once you get the glue softened. I like the Scraperite ones. Get a sampler pack of the blades and do some experimenting to see which works best.
Again, too much heat will take the paint off too. Being in a well-ventilated area will reduce the risk to your lungs if you go too far with the heat.
ETA: if it's powder-coated like the sibling comment suspects, I have no idea where to start. Even painting over could be hard. I tried painting a black powder coated cabinet, and it's flaking off like crazy.
Decals that don't come off with Goof-Off or mineral spirits may be more vulnerable to citrus-based removers and vice versa. Either way, the key is allowing plenty of soak time. Soak the decal, cover it with something impermeable, and let it sit overnight if necessary.
It really depends on what they actually are. That sounds like a job for a heat gun on low and a plastic scraper. Butter wet wax can take care of some adhesive residues and maybe might help. Then there’s always a nice acetone soak. Be very careful (I mean just don’t) with heat and any solvent because you’ll light a nice big fire and burn your house down.
If you’ve got decals on paint there’s always a risk you’ll strip both off at the same time.
A 3M stripe off wheel might also help, but do your research on any of these.
- Vinyl decals - try applying hot water for 5 minutes. Hot to touch, not boiling and decal must be continously covered with water. It should slide off.
- Stickers - if goof off doesn't work, try epoxy paint solvent. It's added to epoxy paints that you use on floor, but you can buy it separately. This stuff is several times more potent than anything I've tried. Found out by accident when pouring into sink with a sticker at bottom. The sticker just slid off seconds after applying.
- If those two don't work - it's probably some heat-set paint, you will not remove it chemically.
When I'm looking for how-to's on YouTube, I scroll until I see (a) an actual dirty construction worker with poor camera angles (home improvement) or (b) a dirty garage (auto).
It's the easiest way to ensure material requirements will be distilled down to "Now, cut the top off a plastic coke bottle..."
For flat iron surfaces, it's hard to beat a single-edge razor scraper. The plastic Allway holders are great. Incredibly, the HDX ones are crap. Not sure how they screwed that up, but they did.
Anyhow, the steel of the blade isn't hard enough to scratch the surface without some serious effort, which means you won't wear any hollows where there's more rust (beyond any pitting from the rust itself). It's quicker than a wire brush because you're basically cutting under the rust and lifting it off in paths the width of the blade. Replace the blades when they get full or nicked. They're more than cheap enough.
As mentioned elsewhere, Evaporust does wonders for any remaining rust.
To me, the point is to make it completely yourself from only standard readily available parts, as a demonstration of how it works and what the components are. Less that anyone can replicate it with just a power drill and a hand file (because why would you do that? it's not a practical project anyway)
Harbor Freight sells flux core MIG welders for < $200, and small lathes for < $1000. You can find lathes for significantly cheaper with a few minutes of digging on Facebook. It's really not enough to detract from the title.
Cheap Chinesium tooling and measurement equipment is plenty enough. The guy in the linked video is a horrendous welder and not a very good machinist. The fact of the matter is that the engine he made is pretty brute, it could reasonably be made for <$1500 in tools (and that's on the high end), and needing a lathe (including the tooling and measurement equipment) and welder really doesn't detract from the title.
It's like those PBS woodworking shows where they say something like "today I'm going to show you how simple it is to build an Adirondack chair" or "here's how easy it is to build a bookcase with nifty joinery", and the host proceeds to walk into a ridiculously spacious workshop with about $100k worth of tools you don't have.
Technical achievements are impressive but who needs another 2 cycle engine. Yesterday I read that one two cycle engine (for a car or motorcycle, I think) puts out as much pollution as 40 modern 4 cycle engines.
This was made in the guys basement with some lengths of pipe, a cheap lathe, and a MIG welder. He ran it for a total of a few minutes.
The impressive part is that he made it in his basement with scrap pipe, not that it's supposed to be some kind of advancement in engine technology. It's just supposed to show that people out there still have the DIY spirit in them.
Well that's no fun. This tends to be one of the hardest things to do right in a small engine. Show me one with a carb made out of something from the Home Depot garden center.
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[ 3.0 ms ] story [ 120 ms ] threadAn electric engine, bought as one part from a hardware store
To provide my own example - M. Bjoernstroem's channel is awesome: https://www.youtube.com/@M.BJOERNSTROEM/videos
He's at Bonneville now, hope he's doing well and setting records.
https://www.youtube.com/@InheritanceMachining
Here are a few more on my list:
https://www.youtube.com/@AppliedScience
https://www.youtube.com/@garywillett4146
https://www.youtube.com/@Clickspring
https://www.youtube.com/@christopherhelmke
https://www.youtube.com/@JesperMakes
https://www.youtube.com/@Photonicinduction
https://www.youtube.com/@Jeremy_Fielding
Some of these are a little different in style and content but I think that they'll scratch the same kind of itch.
Awhile back I suggested to a friend who was dealing with a tragic loss to watch from the first video as an excellent example of what heathy grieving looks like. An absolutely beautiful channel.
https://www.youtube.com/@OddsandEndsMachining/videos
Including sand casting a 350cc V4 two stroke engine block (for a motorcycle). He gets a foundry to do the actual metal pours, but this guy: https://www.youtube.com/@OzBSABantams/videos sand casts cylinder heads and triple clamps on his driveway.
https://youtube.com/@Le_Dan
https://www.youtube.com/@StuffMadeHere
https://www.youtube.com/@PaskMakes
https://www.youtube.com/@MikePatey
https://www.youtube.com/@jamesbruton
Much of the channel is about dragging decrepit artifacts of industry out of scrapyards or the reclaiming jaws of Nature and quite effectively repurposing or reusing the sound bits, which is something I personally find to be creative and satisfying.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz3OKeD4_hU
https://youtube.com/@cuttingedgeengineering
https://youtube.com/@snowballengineering
https://youtube.com/@noengineerhere (but probably too much comedy for your taste)
https://youtube.com/@matthiaswandel
https://youtube.com/@agingwheels
https://youtube.com/@breakingtaps
https://youtube.com/@saveitforparts
No snark, minimal editing and narration.
[0]: https://www.youtube.com/c/AndrewCamarata
Restorations, whacky projects, all laid back and down to earth.
That's not quite what the headline promised.
I was looking some time ago (a year or 3) how to de-rust stuff and found out that you do go over the thing with a wire brush, then some acetone, and then you pick up your industrial laser rust remover! Magic happens at step 3 apparently.
...I did good enough on my project - phosphoric acid stuff + a lot of scrubbing.
As someone who started doing things in `meat-space` at the tail end of 2020 I've learnt a lot about YouTube sponsor-fic vs reality.
I have a YT channel which is me documenting stuff I've done. Anyone interested is encouraged to (easily) find it. And this is just to prove that my mouth is exactly where my written word is.
Reality always wins. I take solace in that.
(Apologies if not I don’t really read German)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY
If the parts are small enough for the ultrasonic, I use it as well.
Lacquer thinner is straight up potent stuff and will remove many things, possibly more than you wanted to, including the paint.
As always, try it somewhere unobtrusive first. Use it in a well ventilated area as well.
If the logo is actually adhered on, heat will go a long ways towards loosening many glues. You can buy plastic razor scrapers that'll help lift the logo once you get the glue softened. I like the Scraperite ones. Get a sampler pack of the blades and do some experimenting to see which works best.
Again, too much heat will take the paint off too. Being in a well-ventilated area will reduce the risk to your lungs if you go too far with the heat.
ETA: if it's powder-coated like the sibling comment suspects, I have no idea where to start. Even painting over could be hard. I tried painting a black powder coated cabinet, and it's flaking off like crazy.
If you’ve got decals on paint there’s always a risk you’ll strip both off at the same time.
A 3M stripe off wheel might also help, but do your research on any of these.
- Stickers - if goof off doesn't work, try epoxy paint solvent. It's added to epoxy paints that you use on floor, but you can buy it separately. This stuff is several times more potent than anything I've tried. Found out by accident when pouring into sink with a sticker at bottom. The sticker just slid off seconds after applying.
- If those two don't work - it's probably some heat-set paint, you will not remove it chemically.
Edit: or dare I say, safer than rust?
It's the easiest way to ensure material requirements will be distilled down to "Now, cut the top off a plastic coke bottle..."
Anyhow, the steel of the blade isn't hard enough to scratch the surface without some serious effort, which means you won't wear any hollows where there's more rust (beyond any pitting from the rust itself). It's quicker than a wire brush because you're basically cutting under the rust and lifting it off in paths the width of the blade. Replace the blades when they get full or nicked. They're more than cheap enough.
As mentioned elsewhere, Evaporust does wonders for any remaining rust.
The impressive part is that he made it in his basement with scrap pipe, not that it's supposed to be some kind of advancement in engine technology. It's just supposed to show that people out there still have the DIY spirit in them.
Well that's no fun. This tends to be one of the hardest things to do right in a small engine. Show me one with a carb made out of something from the Home Depot garden center.