Some things I would like to see are pedal controlled devices. Something like a pedal controlled wheelchair, not powered by the pedals just control the forward and back motion. My mother with sever arthritis can still pedal but has a very hard time walking. It would be a little exercise doing something that needs to be done (getting around). A pedal controlled remote control lawnmower would be nifty also.
Where I used to live an elderly gent rode a very low to ground bike. Looked a lot like the silly motorbikes some peeps do. I imagine they’re out there for sale.
Yes, there are electric recumbent trikes out there, such as the Tadpole. A friend of mine got one after he recovered from a stroke and could no longer balance on a conventional bike. He rode it to work. It got him outdoors, with "anything is better than nothing" level of exercise.
Sorry I lacked the proper name, but yes they are about. And definitely look like they could help people certain health issues. Although getting down into it would be something to consider for older peeps.
many ebikes work this way, pedaling and the chain more or less signal the motor rather than provide meaningful power... though afaik none of them do backwards for obvious reasons
she might enjoy an etrike, though more for recreation than normal day to day
Have you seen what people are doing with hoverboards + wheelchairs? Carer- & user-operated variations. Not professional solutions, but certainly fill a need.
Not to mention they’re talking about lead-acid batteries, which have been replaced for pretty much every application, except (for now) starter motor batteries for combustion vehicles, by the various lithium batteries.
"have" is doing most of the work here. Most EVs have a small 12v battery to power 12v components. But the driving the car to the store part is done with lithium.
You could attach pedals directly to motor axle and control charging power drawn precisely to ensure smooth rotation in absence of the flywheel. It could be really small.
No, you can't. Most generators have to be spun at a thousand or several thousand RPMs to put out any sort of amount of power.
Your average inexperienced person can pedal at maybe 80rpm comfortably, but probably considers even that to be "fast."
A road cyclist with a year or so under their belt will do 100rpm if they put their mind to it and are positioned well biomechanically. Above that, to do it and be smooth and efficient, especially for any sort of sustained effort, you have to have a decent amount of experience/training.
That's well over 10x too slow.
And there's still the issue of your average person only being able to put out 100-200W past about 1-3 minutes.
This arguably had some relevance in 2011. In 2026, cheap solar and batteries make human-powered static devices that would benefit from the extra power of a stationary cyclist completely redundant.
I thought he was posting about some retro product until I saw the USB ports in the energy delivery. Weird that he edited his photos to look like that, and used retro components otherwise.
I think the photos look like that to achieve a very small file size. The whole site is hosted and a small solar and battery powered server, so every MB matters.
For photographic images, dithered PNGs have worse quality:size ratio than JPEGs. If you want small files and are willing to sacrifice quality you can turn the JPEG compression up or reduce the resolution.
What do you expect from idiot hipsters incapable of basic math and science, and who generally have no idea what the hell they're talking about, just building stuff well enough to take a few pictures?
Some quotes:
"Off-grid solar PV systems often charge lead-acid batteries."
Nobody is using lead-acid anymore, which shows how out of touch these idiots are with reality. For 5, if not 10 years LiFePO4 batteries have been the best option even for DIY systems.
You lose half the power you put into them, the deeper you discharge them the more you wear them out which means you have to buy far more capacity than you need, whereas LiFePO4 you can discharge down to 10% and charge to 90% and still get thousands of cycles out of them before they degrade to maybe 80% of their nameplate capacity. You also get higher working voltage - 13-13.8v for much of the battery's state of charge. I'm not kidding when I say that from efficiency losses alone you DOUBLE your effective solar generation by switching to LiFePO4 from lead-acid.
"At the other extreme, resistance on the pedals is too high when powering a kettle or a refrigerator."
It would take three hours for the average person to put enough energy into a "perfect" kettle to get it to boil, using a "perfect" bike that could convert the roughly 100W of mechanical effort into 100W of heat in the kettle....
Between mechanical and electrical losses, heat loss in the kettle, and energy inefficiency of the human body, I would rule it nearly impossible for even some of the world's most elite cyclists to power an electric kettle long enough for it to boil.
The handcart article goes to explain at length why a multitude of other options are inferior, but then they act like an electric generator bike would provide any sort of meaningful amount of power compared to just putting a solar panel outside.
Especially if you're willing to buy used, solar is dirt cheap. You can get NEW panels 300-400W panels on clearance for ~$100. You can get a nice-but-cheap 1-1.3kWh 12v battery for about $250. A top-notch solar controller, $75-100. And that battery will fully charge from dead in one day worth of sun in non-ideal conditions...
Were people doing much with Li in 2011? I don't remember them being all that accessible until a few years later but maybe that's just when they filtered into the worlds I was in at the time.
If we are picking nits, almost every panel in the US and Canada is _both_ 120v and 240v. But even electricians here commonly say "two-twenty" instead of "two-forty."
> An energy loss of 42 to 67.5 percent of naturally means that it takes 42 to 67.5 percent more effort or time to power a device (say, a blender) via electricity compared to powering the same device mechanically.
Nope. If input is 100W, loss is 60%, and resulting in output of 40W, then to increase output to 100W you don't need 60% more input (which would output 64W) you need 150% more input.
Are there options that don't limit the output power? Typically the light power is limited, so dynamos only provide around 5 W or so, which already makes them not so attractive even for charging your phone on a bike.
I think the problem with having a higher wattage is that you can't have a substantial amount without introducing what would generally be an undesirable amount of drag. It would certainly be useful to be able to engage / disengage a dynamo hub at a higher wattage though.
I'm not totally sure about the specifics since despite being an engineer, I cannot distinguish electricity from witchcraft. That said, I do know that if you want to charge your phone from your dynohub you need to ideally have some sort of powerbank in the middle.
44 comments
[ 0.22 ms ] story [ 14.1 ms ] threadSorry I lacked the proper name, but yes they are about. And definitely look like they could help people certain health issues. Although getting down into it would be something to consider for older peeps.
she might enjoy an etrike, though more for recreation than normal day to day
Full-cycle efficiency should be higher now. And the inverter. And the generator.
Your average inexperienced person can pedal at maybe 80rpm comfortably, but probably considers even that to be "fast."
A road cyclist with a year or so under their belt will do 100rpm if they put their mind to it and are positioned well biomechanically. Above that, to do it and be smooth and efficient, especially for any sort of sustained effort, you have to have a decent amount of experience/training.
That's well over 10x too slow.
And there's still the issue of your average person only being able to put out 100-200W past about 1-3 minutes.
https://solar.lowtechmagazine.com/about/the-solar-website/#h...
https://github.com/lowtechmag/solar/wiki/Solar-Web-Design
https://homebrewserver.club/low-tech-website-howto.html
https://solar.lowtechmagazine.com/2023/06/rebuilding-a-solar...
https://solar.lowtechmagazine.com/about/the-solar-website/ (Lots of comments at the bottom about image compression)
Some quotes:
"Off-grid solar PV systems often charge lead-acid batteries."
Nobody is using lead-acid anymore, which shows how out of touch these idiots are with reality. For 5, if not 10 years LiFePO4 batteries have been the best option even for DIY systems.
You lose half the power you put into them, the deeper you discharge them the more you wear them out which means you have to buy far more capacity than you need, whereas LiFePO4 you can discharge down to 10% and charge to 90% and still get thousands of cycles out of them before they degrade to maybe 80% of their nameplate capacity. You also get higher working voltage - 13-13.8v for much of the battery's state of charge. I'm not kidding when I say that from efficiency losses alone you DOUBLE your effective solar generation by switching to LiFePO4 from lead-acid.
"At the other extreme, resistance on the pedals is too high when powering a kettle or a refrigerator."
It would take three hours for the average person to put enough energy into a "perfect" kettle to get it to boil, using a "perfect" bike that could convert the roughly 100W of mechanical effort into 100W of heat in the kettle....
Between mechanical and electrical losses, heat loss in the kettle, and energy inefficiency of the human body, I would rule it nearly impossible for even some of the world's most elite cyclists to power an electric kettle long enough for it to boil.
The handcart article goes to explain at length why a multitude of other options are inferior, but then they act like an electric generator bike would provide any sort of meaningful amount of power compared to just putting a solar panel outside.
Especially if you're willing to buy used, solar is dirt cheap. You can get NEW panels 300-400W panels on clearance for ~$100. You can get a nice-but-cheap 1-1.3kWh 12v battery for about $250. A top-notch solar controller, $75-100. And that battery will fully charge from dead in one day worth of sun in non-ideal conditions...
Retro-look nit: all are outdated nominal voltages. The US is 120 V (since the 1960s), while the UK and EU are 230 V (since the mid-1990s).
Nope. If input is 100W, loss is 60%, and resulting in output of 40W, then to increase output to 100W you don't need 60% more input (which would output 64W) you need 150% more input.
Thanks, I learned something. I’m suprised how little drag they seem to add.
https://www.cyclingabout.com/dynamo-hub-power-drag-testing-s...