Ask HN: My house might burn down in the next 24 hours. Suggestions?

498 points by kbenson ↗ HN
E.g. Paperwork not to forget, items to document, things to expect when dealing with insurance, etc. I'm looking to avoid stupid mistakes from things I just didn't think of.

I'll forward the discussion along to the thousands of others in a Facebook group facing the same situation.

349 comments

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Take photos/videos of your entire home interior. For insurance.
Did that, but it was yesterday morning when it was a bit more hectic. Planning to go through again more thoroughly soon.
Record precise model numbers of the most expensive things you own, pictures of them help. If you put "42 in TV" for reimbursement, you'll get reimbursed for the cheapest one that can be found. If you put Sony XYZ123, you'll get reimbursed for that very specific model (always higher, sometimes very much higher)

Spend one minute just experiencing being inside your house before you leave.

Leave a note with your contact information inside.

Turn on the lawn sprinklers and faucets to flood the house. Cut down any close trees. If you can, hose the roof. Keep windows closed and put flammables in the basement

From Reddit: omeowner turned his sprinklers on before leaving to escape a Kansas wildfire. He came home to the only house saved.

https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/5ymk35/homeowner_turn...

Does this really help? Is coming back to a half-burned-down house better than coming back to a house that's completely burned down?
It might let you recover things you couldn't take, like family photos or computers, etc.
There are several news stories that show similar benefits.
City mandated drought resistant front yard with mulch and drip system. :/

Two story house, so hosing the roof is hard, but it's tile at least.

Northern California, so basements are pretty much non-existant.

Faucets left on is an interesting idea, but given the fire is leaving flat slabs in its wake, not sure how much it will help. Probably can't hurt though.

Thanks!

I'd hate to disagree, and I hope you're not wasting too much time, if it's a big fire, fuck the house, you should be concentrating on your family. Family first, then necessities(water/food/clothing). Everything else is bullshit.
We've been packed since 7am Monday when the initial scare hit, but stuff looks to be taking a turn for the worse tonight. Theres a lot of variables in play, but my wild guess would be maybe a 20% chance of it reaching my neighborhood, but not for many hours. This puts me in the situation of being able to be a bit more methodical than I have been so far.
Hmm methodical is good, just don't be too sure about how quickly a fire can move. A slight shift in the wind and a better combustible can make an amazing difference in speed.
I read once you should run the AC at max, something about keeping the attic and house cooler can help it avoid spontaneously catching fire from close heat.
AC units also typically dehumidify air, which is the last thing you want in a bushfire.
Though the air is already so dry I’m not sure it makes much of a difference.
I think it'd be much preferable to turn the power off before leaving.
The comments in the reddit post from professionals stated that the sprinklers were not very useful for that purpose and advise against it:

https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/5ymk35/homeowner_turn...

Not to mention that, if everyone does this, the water pressure will be decreased where the fire trucks need it. If the fire turns out not to threaten your property you’ll feel like the worlds’ biggest jerk.
Actually, no where does he advise against it. Did you even read the comments? He said "The sprinklers could have helped, but I just see solid defensible space. Trees are limbed up, grass is maintained, no dead veg on the property, no trees taller than the roof that would put litter into the gutters."
That's not what they said: "As a former wildland fire fighter I can tell you the sprinklers made a huge difference but..."
24 hrs is too late to cut down trees. The amount of flammable branches left around is too high of a risk. That's a week or so beforehand type job.
Google maps snapshot to get the scope of the lot for location and "foot print"
Pile rocks in the corners of the lot. Maybe record good GPS of each corner. If it all dissapears, at least you know where to rebuild the fences. Don't want to argue with your neighbours on boundaries.
"An employee from an insurance company describes in detail how to get the most out of your claim." https://np.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/43iyip/our_...

Basically take photos of everything, if just to remember what will be lost so you can list it for the insurance later.

I have no idea how this works but aren't most policies exempt from force majeure like forest fires?
I thought that's exactly what insurance was for though. I thought force majeure was something that applies to cancellation of contracts - e.g. I work for a performer and if he can't make it to a show because there are no fights due to weather, both he and the venue reschedule with no penalties paid by either side. Likewise if the venue is snowed in our something. But if they just choose to cancel the concert at short notice, they still have to pay his fee.
Most policies exempt "acts of God", but I think forest fires are firmly in the covered realm. A meteor hitting your house might be in the uncovered area. (They also exempt acts of war, so a north korean missile hitting your house would also likely not be covered.)
I just purchased some life insurance with exactly the North Korean scenario in mind and I specifically asked the agent about the acts of war exclusion. He told me the company doesn’t have this exclusion, and most insurance companies don’t have it nowadays, and if they have it, it only applies to military personnel. Of course, everyone who buys insurance should check with their agent, not take my word for it.
You bought life insurance to hedge against a nuclear attack? I suspect we will have other things than accounting to worry about after an exchange like that.
Food is going to be expensive.
The prevailing assumption about nuclear attack is every weapon every manufactured will be simultaneously fired at op who is at ground zero. For all values of op across the entire country. And no other scenario can exist. Which of course is silly. The only wartime nuclear activity we've had on this planet wasn't a nuclear exchange, for example.

Most likely outcome is something like a single "dirty bomb" attack on a city 1500 miles downwind of where I work, unfortunately where a datacenter is located, resulting in me putting in a 36 hour work day trying to bring everything up at a disaster recovery datacenter 1000 miles away from both me and the attack, then on the commute home after 36 hours without sleep, I fall asleep driving and die in the resulting car accident, and my family won't get a penny because "clearly his death was a result of a N.K. act of war". Even worse not only might my family not get a penny WRT death but if anyone can sue anyone for anything, and my liability insurance is cancelled because of "act of war" then my family could end up quite destitute after a multi-car accident.

I wonder how many people had heart attacks watching the 9/11 news coverage a couple decades ago.

Or for any value of american response, a large fraction of the population would be very unhappy with the american response to a nuclear terrorism attack, regardless of the specific response, so my car parked downtown gets set on fire in the riots. That would suck if my car was temporarily uninsured because it was an act of war.

There's a lot of people paid a lot of money to deny insurance claims. See also, medical insurance.

Shouldn't everyone read their policy? The written policy is what matters, not what an agent tells you.
I would say it's faster to just take slowly video than trying to take hundreds of photos.
I hope the OP notices this, it's excellent advice. The time you spend on your claim to your insurance company may be the best hourly rate you ever make in your life. Don't rush it, get it right. My takeaway from the reddit comment is "be as specific as possible, especially about expensive things."

Like this, for example: 'If you said "High-end Toaster, Stainless Steel, Blue glowing power button" ... you might get $35-50 instead [of much less]. We had to match all features that were listed.' I can imagine that someone who has been through an ordeal and just wants to get the claim processed might just say 'toaster', and end up with $7 instead of $50. Multiply that by everything in your house, and you're really coming up short.

Box up mementos, backup data, pull drives, receipts & model info of large purchases... travel supplies
Food/water, clothing(warm weather and cold), phone chargers!!! if you have time (never ever risk for this), mementos (not photos, they are a waste - I lost all mine to a fire previously),now only if you have a lot of time (do not even think about it it you don't ). Hard drives -pca/laptops are a waste of time.

The most important rule. IF YOU CAN SEE THE FIRE AT ALL, GO.

I'm an Aussie, from the country, we saw a lot of fires when I was growing up. It moves soich faster than you can imagine. In good condition ditiona it can go faster than you can drive.

Be careful, gods speed buddy.

Edit, as mentioned : if safe turn off gas.

2nd edit as techjuice said: legal documents and video, but this is the last thing. Documents won't help your family if you don't get out.

Look I'm not kidding about how fast fire can move, if you can see it, it's panic time.

Also, I emailed you, if you need to ask a question, drop me a email with your skype, I'll call and answer anything I can.

Edit: email I sent to op, for anyone else's info:

Okay, now I'm sorry if some things sound like I'm talking down to you. I'm just going to explain as I know it (also forgive typos I'm on a phone).

Driving through a fire- even on a road is not a plan. Ever. It starves the engine of oxygen and the vehicle will stall. Bad place for it. Only ever do it if it's an emergency.

Fire will move faster than you. Yes it takes days sometimes to move a few hundred feet, but Murphy is an arsehole and fire can move faster than you can drive, if the conditions are right.

Clothing; hot and cold, you don't know where you will be, pure cotton is better than synthetic, synth melt if your in fire, melting is worse than burn.(you have to take it out of the skin if it melts).

Water, lots.

First aid kits: if you have it bring it, alovera plants are an amazing treatment for burns, snap a small part off and run the juice over the burn. If there is a burn with a melt(eg clothing, plastic etc), and if it's safe, do not pour cold water on, it will set the melt, try and remove as much as possible (without touching the burn), before applying water.

I'll write more after this email. If you are forced to drive through fire, a)very. Fucking. Dangerous. B) all windows up, clothing(cotton) around mouth and nose. Be. Careful.(gods I hope you don't get into this)

Again. If you can see the fire, get. Out.

I don't have much more for during the fire, some people recommend sprinklers, watering roof etc, I believe that's an edge case. Yes if you have time, it may help, but there is no reason to risk your family for it.

Lives can be rebuilt, life cannot.

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> The most important rule. IF YOU CAN SEE THE FIRE AT ALL, GO.

Actually, listen to local authorities, if you can see the fire then there's a good chance that it's too late. I'm sure you're aware of our newer "stay or go" procedures and that these decisions must often be taken 12-24 hours in advance. You don't want to be one of those tragic images of a burnt out car on the road while you were trying to evacuate.

If OP is asking on HN now then I think it's safe to say they don't have a well thought out evacuation plan and should leave ASAP if it's still safe to do so, just take the phone, wallet and a few clothes.

I would assume OP is up on whatever local authorities are advising and is posting to HN (at least in part) as an alternative to running around flailing arms and screaming like Kermit the Frog. I approve such choices and am happy to participate in helping them try to stay calm and do something vaguely constructive in the face of this.
Hmm I'm on two minds about this, I don't know what it's like in the us, but in aus, when there's a fire we get constant updates about position and direction.

If you are unsure, I'll certainly agree, be. Fucking. Careful.

Otherwise, staying seems like a bad plan(cavet yes I know I know, but shit. If it's coming towards toh, go, if there is akm firebreak between you don't, I can't cover everything edge case)

Staying is an awful plan right up until the point where it isn't. That point depends on local factors like which roads you can take. If there is only one access road and it's in the fires path with no time to escape then you're better off taking your chances at home with a garden hose or swimming pool. A significant number of the black Saturday deaths were from people that left evacuation too late: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Saturday_bushfires
The same could be said for leaving is an awful plan until it isn't.

I don't disagree with you, it's risky either way, and I only have my own personal experience to go from (which was dense bush to near the house), so I can't give op a definite plan. Not without knowing a lot more than I do, what I do know though, is leaving 24 hours before it arrives, is a lot safer than either of the previous options. Worst case scenario ario, a little fuel is wasted.

An above-ground pool or water tank is a bad place to go. In-ground can be a little better. If you're trapped and there's no way out, go for it, but don't depend on a water store to save you.
Unbelievably, and as a complete shock to me given the fire-prone nature of this area, there is almost no information available other than "the fire was here". We all went on line expecting such simple and fundamental information, but there is none to be found. It is truly disgraceful that they don't have anything better than it's fine/evacuate. I literally need to check twitter/facebook once I am done typing this comment.

Edit: Just found a good facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/SCScanner/

Also, if you have time, throw out all food in your fridge and freezer that you aren’t taking with you. If your house ends up being fine, it may be without power for a long period of time and you may not be able to go back home right away. It will save you from cleaning up a real mess afterwards. Also clean your dishes if there is time, for the same reasons.
Shit really good point, I'd forgotten that (been a while since I did the drills).
Does the trash day happen within the same 24 hours?
Put a quarter on top of a frozen cup of water in your freezer. If it's still there when you get back, you haven't lost power for a long enough time for your frozen food to thaw. If it sank to the bottom of the cup, toss out all the food.
FWIW, some documents still help your family even if you don't get out. Trust Documents, Life Insurance Policies, Last Will and Testament, etc.
Turn off your natural gas line at the meter.
I would turn off the water lines as well. On the chance the house doesn't burn but is damaged, preventing water damage and flooding may make some property significantly more salvageable.

(Unless the house has sprinklers, of course, or other fire suppression, obviously.)

Fire suppression systems that I'm familiar with, which is absolutely not all, don't rely on an external water supply. They use stored water, often mixed with some oily substance that prevents corrosion, and are gravity or bladder fed.

Not that this helps, I just figure it is interesting and one less thing to worry about at a stressful time.

They usually don't require power or external water because those can be disrupted. I only know this because I've been involved in having a few systems installed and am not an expert.

The house is only a few years old, so has the state mandated sprinkler system. Interestingly, it does get fed off the water main, which I know because it prevented me from getting a house wide water softening system. It's a 2" main because it needs to feed all the sprinklers, and it has a notice posted that it's illegal to impede the flow because of that (and a softening system that could handle that is much more expensive).
I'm sure they have a reason for it. There's no storage tank to supply it?

The systems I'm familiar with were all commercial, so that may be why I'm unfamiliar with them being fed from the main. I had to deal with getting a couple of commercial buildings done. I am not completely certain, but I think both of those systems were completely independent of the municipal water supply. I'm 99% certain, at least.

> There's no storage tank to supply it?

Not that I'm aware of, which means I'm pretty sure not. It might be that at the house level, a single house isn't expected to draw so much water, while in a larger structure it's probably possible to overwhelm any feasible main that could be expected if a bunch of sprinklers go off. Even if the main can handle it, maybe there isn't a large enough connections to specific portions of the building from the main which causes water starvation. I imagine there's lots of insidious details when scaling to a large building which aren't immediately obvious.

In both cases I experienced, it was a big giant tank up on the roof of the building. It was separate from the fire suppression system in the server room.

I can see why there would be different systems and code requirements for residential construction. Come to think of it, whilst you could put the tank in an attic space - or use a bladder system, it would occupy a lot of space and I'm not sure residential construction would support the weight of the system.

As others have said, I would walk through the house with a video camera and get every inch of it on tape. Both as evidence as well as a reminder to yourself of everything you owned.

I would also take a look at your policy and look for things that are not covered under traditional home owners. Things that come to mind are jewelry, art, and sometimes computers. Jewelry especially being high value and easy to evacuate with you.

Best of luck. Will be thinking of you all.

Set up live streaming GoPro.
Gather all of your legal documents (deed to house, loan paperwork, birth certificates, pictures, social security cards, insurance docs, car titles, and any other documents and valuables), blankets, computers, 5 to 7 days worth of clothes, some food, water, drinks, snacks and other digital devices. Insure they are all secured in the vehicle you are going to use to vacate the area.

Also insure you have video and pictures of the now to include the inside and outside of your home, vehicles and land along with what the neighbors homes looked before you vacate the area.

Once you are sure you have everything, fill up on gas if possible and vacate the area and check the safety status of the area many miles away from the fire. To be safe go to a different county or city far away from the flames.

Take photos of everything and sync them with the cloud. Documents, hard copy photos, drivers licence, certificates. Everything.
Google Photos offers unlimited storage for free, as long as your pictures are smaller than 16MP.
Or just give a DVD with the photos and videos to your sister or parents, or send it to a friend in another city. Encrypted if you prefer. Uploading photos of all your valuable items and your identity documents to internet could lead to a different category of big troubles.
I agree. You should take pictures of any valuables you leave behind so it'd be easier to prove you owned them to the insurance. Take pictures of serial numbers when possible.
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Something people frequently overlook - take photos of all your clothes (or at least count each item), because replacing an entire wardrobe of clothes is expensive and remembering everything you had is very difficult.
USPS will automatically put a 'hold' on your mail when the home is unsafe for delivery and you'll have to pick it up from the local PO. It may be best to forward it to another residence.

https://www.usps.com/manage/forward.htm

During Hurricane Matthew, Fedex delivered a package to my door while the island I live on was under a mandatory evacuation order. The package got destroyed. My advice is to contact the sender and have them put a hold on it.
At least according to UPS they will not deliver to places under evacuation notice.

https://www.ups.com/us/en/service-alerts.page?id=alert1

> At least according to UPS they will not deliver to places under evacuation notice.

That's UPS, not USPS. I wouldn't really trust either one of them, but if there's one I'd trust to do the obviously wrong thing, it's USPS.

Make sure to take ID, debit card, cash, credit cards, smart phone, tablet, laptop, etc. Wear comfortable clothes, like sweats. Try to have a change of clothes. View this as stuff you may live in for a while.

Grab your homeowner's policy and any small personal items, like wedding rings.

It is cool if you can grab personal hygiene items, but those are relatively easily replaced. Try to take prescription medications. People sometimes wind up seriously ill a week or more after an evacuation event because they don't have their usual drugs and can't readily get more. In some cases, people die a few months later and relatives speculate that it is partly because they couldn't get a steady supply of their usual meds in the weeks afterwards.

Edit: After the fire, when you go back, take photos and call an insurance adjuster immediately. Do this before you try to fix anything or do any clean up. Cleaning up amounts to destroying evidence.

You can hire a public adjuster to file for you. Your broker, lawyer or a public adjuster are essentially the only people that can talk to the insurance company on your behalf.

(Edit: changed private adjuster to the correct term public adjuster)

As I mentioned lower, try to wear as little synthetic as possible, if worse comes to worse, it melts into flesh. Cotton at least burns. (Yes I know, lesser of two evils here).

Good call on the meds op.

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I don't think he's planning on being in the house.
Sometimes people have to escape through the flames. Synthetic clothing can have a low burn point and can damage skin if only melted.

If it were me I would pack synthetics in a bag for use after reaching safety, and wear long sleeve shirt, pants, and boots while escaping in a vehicle or worst case on foot.

Would jumping into the shower and saturating your clothes before running through flames retard the burning of synthetic, if fully saturated? I ask cause I sleep in 100% polyester and nylon exclusively as cotton makes me sweat under a blanket.
Be careful of private (aka public) adjusters. They take a cut of your settlement. They can help you get more from insurance sometimes.... but if your house burns down with everything in it, you are likely maxing out. They can't get you more than you are insured for... but they will still take a cut.

There will for sure be people be swooping in like vultures after something like this to try to profit... Not all are bad, but I would just say, be careful.

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In some states they amount to little more than scam artists. I'd hesitate before hiring one. Better, hesitate before speaking to one.
Funny, that is about how I feel about the entire insurance industry.

(Source: I worked for an insurance company for over five years.)

Theoretically, insurance is supposed to work like mortgage or other deaspool, where people pool money to cover a low chance but big risks by paying a small amount. However it got broken the moment it got capitalist. There is a whole idea of maximizing gain and doing essentially what is investment banking in some countries.
> it got broken the moment it got capitalist

Like, in 1681 when the "Insurance Office for Houses" was founded, or did you mean the maritime loans from the 4th century BC? Insurance and mutual aid societies have coexisted for literally millenia now, and if you think the latter are better, you're still free to join one (assuming your government doesn't force you into the former). But it's pretty nonsensical to blame capitalism if you don't like the way your insurance company currently operates.

Only approach one after the insurance company has made an offer that you think is terribly unfair. I worked with one in this situation and it worked out very well.
It depends on how much expensive merchandise you own. People forget just how quickly things add up. As a single example (out of hundreds in an average home), most people won't even remember to add their toaster to the insurance claim. And even if you remember to claim "a toaster", insurance will pay you $20 for the most basic toaster possible - rather than the $120 you spent on an 8-slot, temperature-aware model.

If you're claiming < $10k and you can live with receiving less back, you may be better off doing it on your own. If you're claiming much more, a (proper, non-scammy) insurance agent is going to multiply your return by an unimaginable amount. The majority of people are getting back less than 50% of their potential insurance payout. It can be worth paying an insurance agent $2000 to get back $30k instead of $10k.

Source: not an insurance agent or anything related; just remembering a Reddit thread where multiple people shared the gap between what they assumed they were eligible for, vs. what an agent squeezed out for them. Normal people don't know how to describe their possessions in proper detail. A decent insurance agent will ensure that what is being replaced is of equivalent value, rather than a bunch of the cheapest generic products.

Nevermind the toaster — clothes add up surprisingly fast. Replacing your wardrobe is a surprisingly expensive thing to do
Not just the money but your time. If you can't easily buy off the rack clothing then will be spending days replacing. You can always order another TV.

I suggest grabbing 1 suit & tie for any legal battles you might face with insurance companies.

> Nevermind the toaster — clothes add up surprisingly fast.

And your shower curtain, food in the fridge, extension cords and cables, business cards, books that you got as gift but never read, and so on.

Most people have tens of thousands of dollars worth of $5 items in their home. But in the stress of losing your home in a fire, you will forget about all of them unless you have a good walk-through video of the entire place, opening each cupboard and looking under each bed.

I guess with that in mind, an addition to the todo-list is to go through each room with a digital camera and carefully photograph everything, including each cupboard and each drawer.
> maxing out

Taking this off topic, but what point is a fire insurance if it can be "maxed out"?

To insure what you truly can't afford to lose. i.e. you definitely need the money to rebuild your house/kitchen/etc., you don't really need the replacement tv.
almost every type of insurance can be "maxed out". You buy a policy with a particular amount of coverage based on your perceived need. The insurance company charges you less for a lower cap, but if you put the cap too low, it won't cover everything you lost. So choose a policy with enough coverage.
Fraud prevention, so you can't claim you had more than was actually there and get exorbitant money back.
As an insurance company, how can you possibly value and determine adequate premiums for a potentially unlimited policy?
To protect the value of the house and stuff as evaluated at the time where you make the insurance deal (and calculate the premium), not at the time when the fire happens - generally, there wouldn't be any significant difference, so it's not a problem and doesn't make the fire insurance any less valuable.

In a small fire it makes sense to look at what exactly was damaged and evaluate the loss, but if a house and all the belongings need to be replaced, then you can calculate that value beforehand, and put that as a reasonable limit to be used for the insurance; I believe you'd agree that if you add a million dollar painting to a half-million dollar house then that would need an adjustment to the insurance policy if you want it to be covered.

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> Wear comfortable clothes, like sweats. Try to have a change of clothes. View this as stuff you may live in for a while.

I would recommend extra changes of underwear and socks, as those are the two bits that will get bad quickly (especially in a hot environment) and can make life pretty miserable with the resulting rashes/fungus.

Before you leave, if you have time, take pictures of your rooms, especially the expensive items (and their serial numbers) as this will make life much easier for insurance claims later on.

yep. you'll want clothes that typically hikers get for long multi-day hikes. synthetics and/or stuff like merino wool for your underwear and socks is much more performant than cotton, which can get nasty in one day of exertion.
If there's time, I'd also take photos of any higher value items you're leaving behind. It removes the risk of being unable to prove you owned something.
Just take a HD video of your whole house. Can take some still pictures too.
Take a photo of every item, not just the high value items. Those small items really add up to thousands. (unless you are a student/poor)
"Those small items really add up to thousands. (unless you are a student/poor)"

Given the price of most college and university books, a student could likely get very rich by simply buying used and having those burn if they looked new enough and could be documented as being in the home when the fire occurred.

I'm not talking about insurance fraud?

My only point was if you're a college student you probably aren't going to have the same amount and quality of items that someone more established has.

If you're a college student/low income/young you are likely to have, say, 1-2 bath towels bought from the Dollar Store; if you are more established then you're likely to have a nicer towel set that costs closer to $50. Those small items ($5-$50 each) are going to add up to probably be just as much, if not more, as any one expensive item. Every small thing matters.

Passport, too, and any documents that would be difficult or impossible to replace. Hopefully you already have these all in one place so they’re easy to grab.
> Edit: After the fire, when you go back, take photos and call an insurance adjuster immediately. Do this before you try to fix anything or do any clean up

Don't forget to take lots of pictures before the fire too.

That's a good tip, maybe for everyone - have an offsite backup (Gmail works, iCloud, whatever), with photos of your valuables, your place, etc.
I have most of the stuff mentioned in this comment permanently in a Pelican case. Grab and go.
I'd add Birth certificate and phone/laptop charger.
Great advice. I'd add that it would be wise to record serial numbers and pictures of items that you cannot take with you. There are many sites out there that will host specifically this, but here's a project i worked on. https://reportit.leadsonline.com/
Let us know what happened when you can. I'll be thinking good thoughts, fellow hacker.
Is this hypothetical or do you think it’s unsafe for some reason?
probably to do with the current wildfires in Santa Rosa, Sonoma and Napa regions of Northern California.
Thanks, so those on HN not living in US knows what is going on. And may god bless them.
They mention in the comments that they are in northern California where there are large wildfires burning.

15 people have died and hundreds of structures have been destroyed.

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/10/us/california-fires.html

Structural losses are now in the thousands.

"At least 2,000 homes and commercial facilities have been destroyed in the fires, which are burning in Napa, Sonoma, Solano, Lake, Nevada, Butte, Calaveras, Shasta, and Yuba counties. A fire station in the Fountaingrove area of Santa Rosa was among the ravaged structures."

http://www.sfchronicle.com/news/article/Wine-Country-fires-W...

Yeah, the NYT article listed 2,000 when I posted it but I have a style preference for describing small thousands as hundreds.
I'd guess he's just asking. I stress enough about whether I've packed the right stuff for vacation. If I was under the pressure of a raging forest fire coming for my home[1], I would not be able to confidently tell you that "yes, I got the necessary stuff, let's evacuate". A checklist would be great to have. (And is a great reason, I suppose, to have a plan for emergencies beforehand, though I don't intend to berate the OP here. I'm just as unprepared, I feel.)

[1]: I am presuming that the poster is north of the Bay Area; the smoke from the fires up there obscured Oakland from view of SF this morning, and the smell of the fire was all over. Eerie as heck, and I'm thankful to be on this side of the Bay. Co-workers reported accidentally leaving a window open and returning to a thin layer of ash covering stuff.

I live in Santa Rosa. Friends have already lost houses. Family in other locations will likely get an evac order within hours. Wind is expected to pick up tonight, and the fire is coming over another hill (pics of it cresting were posted) and that area has already gotten evac orders. 2000+ structures have already burned.
Take pictures of everything you can. Get passports, birth certs, if you have copies of bills grab those so you can cancel or suspend accounts as needed.
Not really anything to add (never been in this kind of situation before), but I hope you and your family stay safe!
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Time to think about your fire plan. My home one is six pages long - not joking! I had to write one when my wiff wanted to run a small bus. from here. It's actually longer than my business one ...

Anyway, this is not a joke and should be taken a bit seriously. A 2l "dry water" fire extinguisher costs about £20 a pop. They work on all fires that are likely to be encountered in the home (not rated for flamable metal). They are quite new but are certified in the EU and maybe beyond. The great thing about these is that they are safe for electrical fires as well as paper etc. So you can replace foam and CO2 with one extinguisher. I was encouraged to look into these by a member of the British Fire Brigade. Put one on each floor.

As well as that, get an escape ladder for upstairs - ~£30-40 and a blanket for the kitchen - ~£5

Fire needs three things to crack on: Something to burn, oxygen, source of ignition. It's not rocket science. No one needs to know about your little fixation about removing the towel that your sig. other leaves next to the gas hob etc.

Keep safe kids!

EDIT: Just seen a few posts whilst I was pontificating here from people who really have to deal with fire as a way of life.

You have a lot of good advice here - heed it!

My comment is a bit pithy, but the time to think about that has passed.

There are many fine suggestions in the thread, so I'm going to amend, assuming you don't mind, your statement - just a little.

"It's time for everyone else to think about their fire plan."

At this point, OP should just follow the best solutions posted in the thread that the situation safely allows for. I'd add that they should monitor local radio as that's likely the source of a rapid evacuation notice.

-

Edited to make it clear that my comment is the pithy one, not the one to which I am responding.

Yes, I suddenly realised that the OP is not worrying about the basics but a clear and present danger (see my EDIT2)

I'm not from around there ...

LOL I think we might both be editing our comments in real time.

As it appears to be a real and present danger, I'm tempted to write about how to respond in an emergency situation. I'd be more concerned with it derailing the subject of the thread, however.

I'd also add that if there is real risk, moving before the traffic increase may be a wise option. I'm not able to determine their risk and, for liability reasons, would not do so.

I completely understand taking the opportunity to give basic fire advice. But I have to know: what did you think the "next 24 hours" part was for?
EDIT2: Shit - just realized that the OP is probably from CA or somewhere else prone to current forest fire.
Yes he's likely near the Santa Rosa/Napa fires that have been going on since Sunday evening.
Well, I certainly got a good laugh out of the perspective of some poor Joe fighting a forest fire in his backyard using a fire extinguisher :)
Well you pointed out the next extinguisher I'll but for my boat so you can be pleased with yourself a tiny bit.
Only save lives, GET OUT
So sorry to hear this. As for documents, focus on those you'll need to prove your identity and financial position. Things that come to mind are:

Drivers licenses

Passports

Birth certificates

Social security cards (not technically ID but good to have)

Insurance documents (home, auto, health, life, anything else)

Property deeds or rental agreements for real estate, vehicles, any other major physical investments (own a boat? a tractor?)

Latest statements from bank accounts, credit cards, etc (digital copies will suffice - this is more about making sure you have account numbers, etc.)

Checkbooks

Paperwork from any corporate entities you may own or agreements such as stock option plans (digital may suffice here as well)

A digital copy (photos on phone if necessary) of your last year's tax documents

Photos of your last few pay stubs (if they're not already digital)

Any financial vehicles whose ownership depends on physical documents, such as bearer bonds

If you have documents relating to care of relatives (guardianship, power of attorney, DNR), bring those

If you have a will, make sure you have a copy (digital or otherwise).

Any other licensing documentation you might expect to want to refer to without having to ask the issuing body for a replacement (firearms licenses, medical licenses, marriage licenses, etc.)

Any documents relating to medical history or prescriptions

Contact info for everyone you know (this may already be digital, but some people do still keep Rolodexes or little black books)

Keys to any and all the things (shed, office, storage unit, safety deposit box, whatever)

You'll likely want to bring with you any laptops and external hard drives you own. If you're somewhat electronics savvy and have a desktop computer, consider extracting its drive too and taking that with you.

And of course, it's the things with sentimental value that are hardest to replace. You can always buy a new stereo system or replace a pair of jeans you left behind (even if you have to wear the jeans you did take until they fall apart and play music over a $20 pair of computer speakers while you save up to replace that tuner). You can never replace your photographs, your favorite stuffed animal from childhood, your grandmother's jewelry.

Good luck!

This might actually be my favorite post in the thread. It's a nice list and it doesn't require leaving the page to visit links. Having it in one spot is a handy thing, especially while in the midst of a stressful situation.

Panic will probably harm more people than fire or smoke. Anything to reduce stress is a good thing.

It is unrealistic, but it would be nice, to have everyone take some lessons in coping with emergencies. There are almost certainly local classes in emergency preparedness, and some varied levels associated with it.

So, in addition to the fine list above, I'd suggest that folks consider such courses in the near future - as well as taking refresher courses. My area has drills and training for citizen/volunteer search and rescue, more so than dealing with other disasters. They even offer free first aid training and classes for pay with some certifications as the result.

If anyone is interested, I'd check with your local fire department, EMTs, or police.

Grab all identification you can muster, and I'd say laptop, photos, etc. that has sentimental value - but don't overdo it. I suggest also calling your insurance company now, let them know what's likely to happen, get a case opened, that way when the house is toast, things will already be moving for you.