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Note that the actual title of the article is "A Natural History of the @ Sign".

Omitted the '@' (probably an escaping issue) drastically changes the title.

The funny thing about places where @ mean a unit of weight, is that the word is kept for reading emails out loud.

You spell emails as "me arroba domain dot com", which sounds to the native ear almost like "me kilogram domain dot com", but is completely normal nowadays.

I love the Polish colloqualism for it, "małpa" meaning "monkey" because of the curled tail.
"The Sign". Portentous.

I like the Indonesian name best.