So what does this mean for all of us who buy coffee at coffee shops every morning? Will this cause serious problems long term since we are consuming residues of their dishwasher chemicals? One potential solution is to always get your coffee to go, but that probably only partly solves the problem.
There are a lot of things than can go wrong when you order from a restaurant or coffee shop. There could be diseases, bacteria, virus, chemicals or even contaminent such as glass parts or insects. The answer to this question would be to only order from places you trust - and even then, contamination can happen quickly and in invisible ways.
I've worked in several, and if you mean "infallible" OK, but I can assure you the people I worked with gave a damn, cared, and would never intentionally slack off, or do a poor job, placing people at risk.
Certain pieces of equipment are cleaned at the end of the night, so even if you bring your own mug you don't remove the possibility of leftover soap or sanitation solution residue.
It is talking about professional dishwashers like the ones used in restaurants. So if you dine out on a regular basis you're probably getting exposed to this stuff even if you don't use it at home.
PS I have no chemical expertise, but the article singles out alcohol ethoxylates as the cause of this damage. And while I don't use rinse aid in my home dishwasher, my Cascade dishwasher pods list "Isotridecanol Ethoxylated" as an ingredient, which may be one of these substances? At least this gets rinsed off, though I doubt it gets rinsed completely.
Many years ago I worked as a skivvy in a hotel kitchen. We never used any detergent for the crockery, it just used extremely hot water. The dishes seemed very clean and they dried very rapidly.
How... many... years ago? When I started cooking professionally in the 80s three-stage hand wash had already been required by health codes everywhere for decades. I've seen all kinds of shit but every kitchen at least has the setup and chemicals for that for health inspections if nothing else. In practice even the sketchiest restaurants will have quats even if they only fill it once a day.
GP is talking about a commercial dishwasher. You can't hand wash hot enough -- you'd get serious burns. So anything you hand wash needs the three-stage wash, rinse, sanitize process with detergent and chemical sanitizer.
Yep. If the water is hot enough you don't need chemical detergent or sanitizer. But we're talking about water that is almost boiling -- you'd only find dishwashers that hot in a commercial kitchen.
I wonder if the sanitize button on a residential unit is good enough. (The machines in the article are pressurized, but that is a new technology. The GP post’s machines were probably older.)
If the purpose of the substance is to make the dishes dry faster it makes sense that it would not be fully rinsed off at the end of the cycle. In theory you would hope that they would evaporate off of the dishes, but that leads to air quality issues, so all in all these rinse aids seem problematic.
Rinse aid and detergent both have the same active, harmful ingredient: sulfates aka AES aka surfactants. The difference is that detergent gets rinsed off, while rinse aid IS the rinse (vs plain non-aided water).
That may be true, but your assertion that rinse aids have sulfates is incorrect. All the ones I've looked at have nonionic surfactants that are not sulfates.
(There are also sulfates that are aren't AES, such as sodium sulfate, which appears in many powdered dishwasher detergents. I doubt this has the same effect, so it's incorrect to just blame "sulfates".)
I think you need to learn the gloriously liberating feeling of admitting you were wrong.
while it is nice that you have cleared up what you meant by 'aes' (a third category which excludes not only most sulfates and most surfactants but even the most common surfactant that is also a sulfate, sds) you have not answered my question
why are you posting this egregious misinformation here
Interestingly enough there was ANOTHER study where they looked at safety of plastic bottles. And then they discovered that plastic bottles absorbed WAY more detergent in the dishwasher than glass or metal and whatnot. This was not even the original intention of their study.
> our results suggest that alcohol ethoxylates were the main culprit component of the rinse aid responsible for the observed toxicity and damage to the epithelial barrier integrity.
If you're talking about "don't full-on wash them in the dishwasher on the 1 hour wash cycle every time you see a breadcrumb drop on the plate and just rinse in warm soapy water and towel dry" then yeah.
Ironically, the summary isn't as good as the "Key Messages" section at the bottom:
> * Professional dishwasher rinse aid causes cellular cytotoxicity and directly impaired barrier integrity of gut epithelial cells by damaging TJ and AJ expressions in daily exposed concentrations.
> * The underlying mechanisms of epithelial barrier disruption in response to rinse aid were cell death in 1:10,000 dilutions and epithelial barrier opening in 1:40,000 dilutions.
> * The alcohol ethoxylates, an ingredient of the rinse aid that remains on washed dishware, caused the gut epithelial inflammation and barrier damage.
It appears to be the rinse aid when used in professional dishwashers utilized in restaurants, etc, due to high concentration of the rinse aid contaminating the "clean" dishes.
Importantly, when they tested a household dishwasher, they didn't find the same issues:
> In contrast, the residual substances on the cups washed in a household dishwasher with detergent B were not present at sufficiently high concentrations to exert cytotoxicity and impair the epithelial barrier function (see Fig E9).
If you use a rinse aid in your dishwasher I bet you’d find harmful results.
Home detergent does contain AES (sulfates) but it gets rinsed pretty well. However if you use rinse aid, the rinse water itself has surfactants (AES, more sulfates), which will remain on the dishware- that’s the whole point actually, so the water beads off.
Also, they've only tested one professional dishwasher and one household dishwasher using one specific formulation of rinse aid.
There's enough here to indicate a need for further investigation, but not enough data to come to any overall conclusions about commercial or household dishwasher safety in general.
They call for further study at the end, acknowledging that their data was all /in vivo/ in a lab, and not direct data in humans. Thus, while they claim to have demonstrated a mechanism, they make no claims that it works the same way in people.
Tangent: most papers seem to do that… which confuses me. It feels like it’s basically saying to discard everything the paper talked about because to be actually sure you’d need to investigate more than they did.
Is it a pro forma formula or does it really mean what I understand it to?
Generally, answering questions will raise new ones. It is very unlikely for a single paper to be the end of a line of research. Sometimes the new questions are quite fundamental (like here), sometimes the new questions are details, and sometimes the further research is "try this same method on this other known big problem".
Besides the inherent fractal nature of how science works, there is also an incentive. Being a scientist in a solved field is not very smart. Or even more cynically the 'further work' section says 'please pay me to do these things next'.
But I think the cynical view is not as important here. Research tends to be strictly limited in time, and for good reason. During the research you will probably find new directions, and also get insight into what old questions are interesting, or what new methods matter. All of these are great cause to include a further work section.
Yeah in industry they are often called sanitizers because the purpose and mechanism are fundamentally different from the home ones people are familiar with. Or as a common chef quip: "the dishwasher is the guy running it, the machine is a sanitizer."
They are notoriously bad at removing food residue, which must be sprayed or scraped off before running. Anything more than trace is cooked onto the dishes. They're really good at removing thin layers of grease quickly, and sanitizing. Doesn't surprise me at all that they don't do a final rinse; handling stuff right out of them leaves a distinct feeling on your fingers, like the opposite of bleach kinda. You have more friction than you should until they fully dry, it's very noticeable.
Started working as a dishwasher as a teenager, ended up spending a couple decades cooking professionally eventually at a pretty high level. Did something else for a while, then got back into it for another few years before learning to code and ending up here.
I have sensitive taste buds and worked for an industrial kitchen with a Hobart washer:
1. Rinse plates before putting them in crates
2. Slide the crates into the washing machine.
3. Close the machine to get it to perform a 3-stage cycle over 2 or 3 minutes: soap, sanitizer (usually some ammonium solution like in sanitizing tablets), then rinse.
I was able to taste bitterness after the rinse cycles and we were never in a rush, so I had the habit of re-rinsing the plates afterwards.
In restaurants I notice soap in my water or on the plate every now and then. It seems like most people don’t mind or notice. If you don’t feel the texture change or taste the bitterness of soap, you can see it by observing pearlescent colors on the surface of your drink.
Based on the paper it seems to be primarily an issue with dilution. They say home dishwashers dilute it to a rate of around 1:80000, the commercials ones are around 1:1000 - 1:10000. The problems they observed seem to happen in that lower dilution range.
Residential version is marketed under the trademark "Jet Dry". It's intended to prevent hard water spots on your dishes, but most people don't care enough or don't have this problem so it's not heavily used.
It really depends on if you have a dishwasher that relies on evap for drying, or an explicit heating element. The latter is becoming more rare as time goes on.
This is why rinse aid is critical, you have to minimize the amount of water on the dishes. The extremely hot water tends to heat up the dishes enough so they retain enough heat to evaporate off the rest of the water. Plastic stuff like cups tends to stay pretty wet since they don't have the thermal capacity of metal or porcelain. A big advantage with this design, other than the energy savings, is that you don't have to worry about putting plastic stuff on the bottom rack, since there's no localized source of heat that can melt them.
It’s just surfactants. Aka detergent. That doesn’t get rinsed off, it gets “rinsed on.” It’s function is to make water bead off the glass so that water spots are not left
Rinse aid is completely unneeded if you properly maintain and use your dishwasher.
I never use any, and my dishes are completely spotless. 30 years old dishwasher, super hard water.
Specifically, you should:
- always fill the salt of the dishwasher's water softener once it's empty. It cannot soften the water if it doesn't get cleaned by the salt. If the water is not softened you will get spots. EDIT: Apparently US folks often have dishwashers which don't soften the water. Ugh. In Europe I haven't even heard that such a thing exists! :|
- configure the dishwasher to your water hardness.
- do NOT use detergent which is advertised as "you won't need salt". This is garbage for lazy people. It cannot properly replace the water softener. Think about it for a moment: The detergent is meant to fully dissolve during washing so you won't have it on your dishes after the final water cycle. The only way it could affect the softness of the water in the final cycle is if it did NOT fully dissolve in time. So there are two factors to be optimized which contradict - stay long enough to soften the water, but not long enough to leave remainders on the dishes. It will never work properly.
- This is not related to rinse aid, but you should know it: Clean the sieve regularly, at least every week. It will get ultra nasty with gunk if you don't. If you have no time for cleaning it, buy a second one, switch them once one is dirty and put it among the dishes so the dishwasher washes it like a dish.
The water hardness setting determines how much the water softener tries to soften the water.
If the water isn't soft enough, it will leave spots on the dishes. Hence people use "rinse aid", so the improperly softened water would drip off before it leaves spots.
If the water is properly softened it contains no calcium etc. which could cause spots on your dishes.
Ditto, no clue what either of those mean. Never, ever heard of adding salt to a dishwasher, certainly. Not in new ones, not in ones from the bad ol' days when they used way more water but actually worked.
I have a new one (a few years old) and yes there's a compartment for salt. My previous one did as well. I'm in Europe (Spain) if that helps. I don't go to any special store to buy them, any old Lidl or other supermarket has it. Where you from where this isn't a thing?
From other comments it's looking like this one of those US/European divide things, with compartments for salt being uncommon on US dishwashers except for a few rare higher-end models/brands that are likely common to both continents (due to low volume in the US not justifying a localized version, I'd guess). I'm middle-aged and in the US and this thread is the first time I've heard of adding salt to a dishwasher.
Really odd that it differs so close to neighbouring countries. Here (UK) I've never seen a Dishwasher without a salt hole, and there's often several well know brands of salt in the supermarket (no idea why, its all the same stuff).
I wonder if its based on average water hardness in the area. I'm in the north of England and our supply comes out of Buxton Springs (yep the same as Buxton bottled water) and is extremly soft so despite filling the salt it never asks for it to be refilled again as its not needed.
When I used to live in north London I'd be filling it up once a month as the water there is extremely hard - so hard that it'll kill your kettle within a year if you don't keep on top of descaling.
In the US you would install a house water softener that would soften the water when it comes into the house. It would only be used in areas with hard water. Our dishwashers usually use hot water rinses instead of cold water like European style ones, the hot water heaters will soft the water before it gets to the appliance.
Anecdotes are not data and all that. The dishwasher in my house is a NEFF, and it has a salt compartment. Came with the house, built-in unit. So yes, some Irish houses have dishwashers with salt - sample size 1.
But I think most people here in the Netherlands never set it up correctly and go for “all in 1” tabs. I never do, always set it up correctly. I do feel I need rinse aid to not have that nasty feel to the glasses.
Miele has it. It's a reservoir with a twist-cover at the bottom of the dishwasher that you fill with salt whenever the dishwasher tells you its time. Seems to be about once a quarter.
My dishwasher doesn't have a salt compartment or any sort of water-softening features; in the US, I haven't heard about this feature. Apparently it's a UK thing?
interesting.. I got a Kitchenaid but maybe I would have gotten a Bosch. I wanted a Bosch but they were on tremendous backorder compared to the Kitchenaid in 2021.
Fill the salt? I'm not sure all dishwashers have a receptacle for that. Ours doesn't, and I'm pretty confident that I've never had one that did across several states in the US and one place in Belgium.
Is the salt for doing a softening process that substitutes for a whole house softener if you don't have one?
We live in a place with hard water and have no softener in the house (you should see our electric kettle when we haven't cleaned it recently). Recently the accumulation of what I assume to be mineral film has gotten a bit noticeable on the dishes that go in the dishwasher.
You might not have paid attention to it because your didn't know about it, but I don't think there are any dishwashers in Belgium that don't use salt, at least for the last twenty years or so.
In my limited experience in the several places I've lived in the US, only one had an issue with water that was hard enough to need addressing. Most residences there had a dedicated household water softener, so even there the dishwashers didn't need to do their own softening.
Another anecdote from the USA: I've only ever had problems with hard water in a house that got water from a well. Never had a problem with municipal water (although there are other contaminants in that).
From that link [1 above]: "An overwhelming 85 percent of the USA has hard water, so the likelihood that you live in state or city with hard water is high."
For a random location. Comparing the water hardness map with a population density map it seems that most are living in areas with soft water.
I'll give you an upvote for that little dive into Wikipedia. For those who haven't already swum as deep, the article on ion exchange resins[0] is also worthwhile. Turns out they are used for reprocessing spent nuclear fuel as well as softening water. Plus a few other things.
I did bad in high school chemistry, I never could understand this stuff. First, the ion exchange resin beads are washed with Na+ which bind to the beads. Second, the hard water is run through the beads and bad stuff like Mg2+ has a stronger attraction to the beads than Na+, so the Na+ is pushed off and Mg2+ binds to beads. The resulting water out of tap is softer because Mg2+ is out, but saltier because Na+ is in. Then once in a while the beads are flushed with Na+ again with the Mg2+ being sent down the drain... but how does this happen if Na+ has a weaker bond? How can it push the Mg2+ off the beads??
The concentration matters. Concentrated Na will displace Mg, but in the Na concentration in the tap water Mg will displace Na. If you had a concentrated brine with large amounts of both sodium and magnesium, the Mg would win.
I believe the Mg+ Ca+ have a stronger attraction to the Cl- ions in the salt so when soaked in brine they trade places with the Na+
Beads prefer Mg over Na but Mg prefers Cl over beads. So you can recharge with salt brine.
Or it might just be a concentration thing where Na / Mg ratio wants to be the same in the brine and beads. So you just give a really strong brine and most of the Mg etc leaves the beads.
Ca²⁺ is the more important ion, since limescale is mainly calcium carbonate (CaCO₃). Otherwise, the explanation is fine.
The exchange of the ions is driven be the difference in concentration between water and resin surface. It works both ways, but Ca²⁺ is preferred (=stronger bonds) by the binding groups (e.g. carboxylate salts). That's why a concentrated Na⁺-brine is needed to flush out the calcium ions.
Imagine the bonding as reaching an equilibrium where Mg2+ bonds and then dissociates in a repeating cycle. If you flood that solution with Na+, the chances for Mg2+ to bond after dissociating are lower when an excess of Na+ is doing the same thing, and a new equilibrium is reached.
As explained, it's the concentration. If you don't have a dishwasher with a water softener: You don't sprinkle a little salt in some compartment, it's large and filled with 1-2 pounds of salt to make a saturated brine. The salt sold for dishwashers is purified NaCl (table salt has some other stuff like anti-caking agent). That's what the dishwasher uses to drive the Ca2 and Mg2 off the resin.
If US folks are looking for this feature, it can be found on higher end Bosch dishwashers in the US.
I have very hard water and a Bosch benchmark series. The water softener makes a huge difference. I don't want a whole-house softener because I don't enjoy the feel of softened water in the shower.
We had a Bosch dishwasher with a built-in water softener when we lived in Lake in the Hills, IL, a suburb of Chicago. The municipal water there (from wells) was extremely hard and it made a big difference.
We now have a Bosch dishwasher in another house in NY state. The water is not hard (it's from one of the Finger Lakes), and the dishwasher does not have a softener, but we like the brand. After reading this story we looked up how to tweak the rinse aid dispenser and turned it down from "5" to "1".
It may be over-softening. Our water felt slimy until we replaced our old unit. The new unit uses way less salt (at least 10x less) and the water feels normal.
Everyone I've ever known with water hard enough to be a bother just installs a whole-house water softener, so all the water inside the house is already softened. Seems inefficient to soften only the dishwasher when a whole house system is pretty cheap.
Fisher & Paykel dish drawers have a salt-dispenser, at least my 2004 models do. They are (were?) designed in New Zealand but sold in the U.S. For a while they were sold rebranded by KitchenAid. My water isn't hard though so I haven't had to use any salt.
(Aside, and I don't know if they are still any good, but these dish drawers are really well engineered. Mine had some problems early on that were resolved by small changes in the design, but FP provided me the parts to retrofit my washers. They've been nearly trouble free since then.)
They were bought out by Haier a few years ago, they still exist as a brand in NZ, not sure about elsewhere. Anecdotally not as good as they used to be.
Available in the UK too. I don't have experience with the drawers (that's the dream though - fridge/freezer especially, drawers for everything (below waist height) makes so much more sense to me) but I'm familiar with a couple of more recent (last couple of years, definitely post-Haier) appliances that are pretty nice. You pay for it though... Seems roughly like Skoda/VW/Audi in terms of top-end F&P branded units with nicer fit and finish than fairly similar but much cheaper Haier branded ones.
I was looking for a fridge-freezer specifically, considered Haier but went with Liebherr in the end - I like that (in terms of white goods/kitchen appliances) it only makes refrigeration units, other than where you use them there's nothing tying them together in why a manufacturer would be good at making them all really, makes sense to specialise in refrigeration, or dish washing, or gas products or whatever IMO.
The H series F&P dishwasher models have a built-in water softener. [0]
According to the user guide, a water softener is recommended if your municipal water hardness is >250ppm which would be quite hard for municipal tap water.
In my region of central Florida the city’s water quality report shows a hardness well below 250ppm, Which you can divide by 17.1 to determine how many grains of salt to take that with.
rinse aid is for hard water. restaurants probably tend to not treat the water and the commercial dishwashers they use probably tend to not have a provision for salt. they operate very differently than your residential dishwasher.
So yes, completely unneeded if you have soft water. Most dishwashers don't have a provision for salt.
I have hard water and a dishwasher with a softener. The plates are dramatically cleaner if there's salt in the softener, no matter what detergent i use.
> Apparently US folks often have dishwashers which don't soften the water. Ugh. In Europe I haven't even heard that such a thing exists!
I've only come across this in Spain so far. Never seen in Norway. But maybe I just haven't been paying attention. Then again, the water in Norway in :chefskiss:
This is the real key, modern dishwashers have so many limitations in an attempt to reduce water and power usage they do an awful job. I wish there was more information on how to disable these features.
EA and EAS are extremely similar in the studied context, both in their use as surfactants in the tested products and their effect on the human body.
The harm done by EAS was previously established by these same researchers and referenced in the paper: "Our recent studies have demonstrated that exposure to anionic surfactants in laundry detergents impairs the epithelial barrier functions in human skin and bronchial epithelial cells even at very high dilutions."
wonder how the proliferation of small motors + robots will affect the use of chemicals in applications like this
better robotics tech can reduce chemical use by:
1. spot application of sponge in place of general application of chemicals
2. more targeted application of chemicals (only when + where needed)
3. replacing poison for pest / weed elimination with smart mobile traps (have seen laser POCs for both bugs + weeds)
4. cleaning materials for recycling using targeted friction instead of soap. separating oil and food scraps from drain water. separating human waste from gray water (and selling the nitrates)
even for something innocuous like brushing your teeth, a robot can use advanced sensing to modify the dose of fluoride
feels like lots of 'bits to atoms' projects here for someone who enjoys garbage
It is a tip I see often, and dishwasher manufacturers generally don't recommend it
White vinegar is a very different product: it is not a surfactant, it is an acid. It means that it doesn't help rinsing, but it can remove scale. Both can prevent white stains, but the mechanism is very different.
If it works just as well, why don't dishwasher manufacturers use acids instead of rinse aid? You can argue that white vinegar is cheap and they they prefer you use expensive detergents so that they can make profit, but they could also sell you expensive acids, so I don't think it is the reason.
So what to do with it? Personally, I still use rinse aid because it is what the manufacturer recommends, and I have no better idea. It is not a significant expense, and according to the study, not as much as a problem with household dishwashers as it is with professional dishwashers (very different machines using different products).
In places with very hard mineral deposits, one solution is to put an inline mechanism that dispenses a very small amount of citric acid into the water supply. I'd guess that, for the amount of exposure time that your dishwasher components have with vinegar, it's not a problem. Same as the above poster, I've run rinse aid and vinegar both, with very similar results.
I suffered from chronic diarrhea for years which I attributed to Crohn's disease. This seemed obvious since diarrhea is a very common symptom of Crohn's, but its onset had been several years after I was diagnosed and prior to that I had tended more towards the opposite problem (constipation). I was thus always suspicious that the root cause lay elsewhere. After much experimenting I found that if I ran my dishwasher through an extra rinse cycle the diarrhea went away.
I tried many different detergents but never found one which didn't cause problems, so I've just continued to run an extra cycle. My GI doctor didn't really believe me when I told him. I wonder how many people are having their IBS/IBD symptoms exasperated by detergent residue left on their dishes.
While searching for causes, did you also look at ways to strengthen/rebalance/improve your GI system?
I'm not sure if this will turn out to be quackery or snake oil, but the Super Gut book by William Davis makes some believable claims as to common causes of digest issues (along with solutions).
A HN poster recommended L. Reuteri supplements a while back, and I cannot recommend them enough: 6 months on and I've been able to completely drop a prucalopride prescription and have almost eliminated what used to be frequent and fairly crippling gut pain.
The key I found was at about the 2 month mark things seemed to be getting worse, but after that a dramatic improvement. I was able to stop the supplements after the 3 month pack, though 6 months on there was some regression so I'm taking another round (which seems to have improved things).
It might not be possible for whatever reason to sustain the culture in my intestine, but it's been the first actual improvement I've had in decades.
Available as BioGaia, I recommend trying it if you have IBS symptoms.
This is good to hear. The Super Gut book describes a somewhat involved process in stages, with the latter rebuilding stage involving growing your own high population cultures; so it's nice to know that comparatively low effort supplements can be effective.
The first stage of resetting, as described in the book, was to rebuild the lining of the intestine. Forgive my imprecision in describing it, as I have forgotten the details and don't feel like digging. The issue is that many of our foods are made with emulsifiers (baked goods, ice creams, etc.), and emulsifiers cause thinning of the intestine walls. That in turn creates a less than optimal environment, causing losses of good bacteria as well as increases/movements of bad bacteria.
Fortunately that first stage is pretty easy - making clove tea with a couple other ingredients daily. I actually found it pleasant after the first few days. And then I read about clove tea and discovered that it's already a big thing, but where I grew up we've never heard of it!
Get some Natto at any local asian market. Bonus if you make it yourself which is pretty easy. There are now also bacillus subtilis supplements out there but the full food is much better.
A. Watch his follow up video. Where he talks about all he got wrong.
B. I recently switched to a more “natural” SevenGenerations pouch and holy crap it’s been excellent.
C. You can not buy anything but pods at two of my grocery stores. You need to go to Walmart near me to find any straight powder. Market has spoken right or wrong.
We use dissolvable tablets (from Blueland) with all "natural" ingredients; can't vouch for how true the natural claim is, but we're happy with them and it's one way to reduce plastic; we also get their dissolvable tablets for hand soap, all purpose cleaners, glass cleaner, etc.
I tried the dishwasher tablets and felt like it didn’t clean the dishes as well. We been using the hand soap and other cleaners and I’m never going back on those. Maybe I need to give the dishwasher tabs a try again.
Maybe it depends on the dishwasher. We used them in our previous house and weren't as impressed with them but then moved and our new dishwasher works very well with them.
Switching to powder has done a lot for us in getting dishes cleaner, and we can dial in the amount of powder needed for the particular soil level of a load.
The fact that it's cheaper per load, and the box fits more neatly under the sink are added benefits.
And if your hands are slightly damp, the cardboard box for the powder doesn't stick to your fingers, where a dissolvable membrane would start dissolving on you.
I call BS on this. The non-pouch detergents disappeared, that much I know. I strongly doubt people had stopped buying gel and powder. I suspect that some bright bulb at Johnson & Johnson or wherever did the math and realized that pouch margins were higher than gel and powder margins.
Fixed serving sizes force over-use. Lots of included water means extra volume and weight (perceived value) on the shelf. While powders allow measured use, and reduce turnover.
I buy 20lb boxes of cheap powder and they last for months. Hot water just doesn’t need that much help if you put some in the pre-wash too.
Depends on the household size and habits. Daily cooking for 4 or 5 people and sharing two other meals and the occasional baking can quickly fill up the dish washer, especially in those growing phases when the kids are eating like there is no tomorrow ;-)
20 years ago in my country overuse of powder detergents was well known by all the manufacturers; this is when fixed serving sizes were developed as a way to contain the problem and they are also considered more convenient by most consumers. I was working in one of these companies at that time, so I know the subject pretty well.
There were a couple of very undesired side-effects that manufacturers hate because it was making the consumers angry:
1. Burning the color of clothes.
2. Irritating the skin (hand-was was very common, it still has some use cases even today).
Also there was a move around 2003-2004 to increase the concentration of automatic washer detergents, that was meant to decrease the transportation cost for manufacturers, but overuse was even riskier. I know it was done, somewhere before 2005 when I left that area of business, part of the solution was a big marketing campaign, another part was switching to liquid detergent with a measuring cup, also including a measuring cup in the package with the larger sizes. I don't know what happened later.
I'll grant that the pods are often reasonably sized. My main complaint is that they don't provide any detergent to the pre-wash cycle. That can leave a lot of oil for the main wash to process.
The local supermarkets all stock literally one or two boxes on the shelf at a time, even though I know they have more in the back because as soon as I buy one it's put back on the shelf the next day. Something really funny is going on, I wouldn't be surprised if they had some contractual arrangement to artificially limit the amount that appeared in stock, to make it seem less appealing.
As someone who has worked in a grocery store I think you're reading way too much into it. They have priorities when stocking shelves but I think conspiracies by Big Detergent to get you to buy tide pods are low on the list.
Liquids have enzymes or bleach. They might have oxiclean instead of bleach but apparently the two best cleaning agents don’t exist in liquid together very well.
I always break a corner off the pod and crumble it into the pre-wash partition since watching the video nerdponx in the sibling thread posted (found it through a different post maybe a half year or so ago also here on HN). I also do the hot-water priming when I remember to.
The difference with "primed" hot water is pretty crazy for something that seems trivial. I've also found opening the door and jiggling the racks during the drying cycle also makes a pretty big difference (assuming you catch it at the right time--and use heated dry)
Apparently, energy efficient dishwashers have an energy budget per cycle and will only put a fixed amount into heating water, so getting hotter water into the dishwasher makes a huge difference in performance.
I wonder about sulfates, specifically SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate - which has many whack-a-mole names). SLS is a surficant, and although not named in this study, it has been shown in other studies to interfere with mucous membranes (canker sores, etc)
I would wonder if that happens in the gut too.
It is in many things. toothpaste, shampoo, dishwasher and laundry detergents, and lots more
Since people are trying to avoid SLS, MANY tricky marketing synonyms have appeared to obfuscate ingredient lists:
The best part is all SLS does is contribute to the foaming of the toothpaste, that's literally all it does (Same thing in soap). It's just to give some psychological idea that foamy toothpaste cleans better. Something like a focus group in the 1950s came up with this ingredient.
surfactants emulsify lipids in polar liquids like water
such emulsification is crucial to many kinds of cleaning
because cell membranes are lipid bilayers surfactants also can cause cytolysis, maybe relevant if you're trying to get bacterial films off your teeth, and sds is commonly used for this in bio labs
surfactants also often foam but this is irrelevant
research papers in biomedical fields often drip with disdain for 'practitioners' (doctors, dentists, nurses, etc.) because their knowledge of chemistry, epidemiology, genomics, etc., is so limited and often wrong
i'd like to see one of those statisticians save an abscessed motherfucking molar though
anyway your dentist is probably not actually being bribed by tom's of maine, he just knows a lot of his patients had less canker sores when they stopped using toothpaste with dish detergent in it
Just seeing that makes me want to switch toothpaste. There looks to be an 'Oral B Toothpaste Pure' that doesn't have SLS or colourants, might give that a go.
I stopped getting canker sores some years ago after changing toothpastes. Having read of SLS, I assumed that was the culprit — but no, I read the ingredients and my new "good" toothpaste also has SLS. So whatever the change was, that wasn't it. For all I know it wasn't even the toothpaste at all!
Interesting. Could have also been a concentration thing, if the newer one just had less of it. But yeah, could potentially have been something else completely!
Do you happen to know of somewhere in the US that sells that 'Oral B Toothpaste Pure'? Everywhere I can find that sells seems to be in Europe or Australia which I assume would mean paying a stupid amount in shipping fees.
It might have just been an Australian market thing? Unfortunately after I posted, when I went to try and order it from Chemist Warehouse (big chain here) it was out of stock, and lots of other places have it on their sites but out of stock too. So it seems to be discontinued even though Oral B still list it on their Australian site...
I’m trying a SLS-free toothpaste now from a local company (again Australian) called Grant’s, but they only have one with fluoride, which has a bit of an intense flavour. But it’s OK. They do seem to have a US distributor but I don’t know if it’s available anywhere over there. Sensodyne as the other commenter mentioned does have SLS free toothpastes but I wanted to avoid some of the other things in it (not that there’s strong evidence against their use, but one ingredient, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, is just a potential irritant, I wanted to avoid the sweetness, and the EU has stopped allowing titanium dioxide in food).
I also had to switch from SLS toothpaste. I used to use a thing called Rembrandt gentle, but they stopped selling that so I started using something called Squigle, which has atrocious branding but is just fine.
I have some amount of uncooked nut allergy and chocolate allergy that causes similar effects to SLS toothpaste. I'm still trying to figure it out.
I wanted to pass along this product I found a few years ago that really changed the game for me though, check out "Durham's Bee Farm, Inc. Canker-Rid."
This has been a problem for me since I was a kid, and all we had back then was Campho-Phenique and pain killing gels. Those things were / are awful. This bee stuff is absolutely amazing. 10/10 check it out.
I'm also SLS sensitive. I found "Verve" toothpaste on Amazon. Reasonable minty taste, cheap, and SLS-free. There are options out there but you really have to search hard for them.
No idea about canker sores but cold sores outbreaks (caused by the herpes virus) are linked to almonds consumption because they are heavy in arginine and don't have much lysine.
Are organisms other than the individual in question attempting to survive unscathed where SLS exists in the water which goes down the drain and gutters and ultimately into watersheds?
Your inability to recognize the issue upon narrowly imagining an individual human as the only potential victim does not eliminate it's deleterious effect on biomes and, by extension, humanity.
Your invalidation is, itself, invalid.
I hope this ability to rationalize away real problems by means of intentional ignorance is never applied to a human other than yourself, as others may recognize this as a genuine cognitive sickness.
Please do not spread this illness.
There's apparently evidence that emulsifiers added to food are problematic regarding mucus membranes, as well as gut biome. We try to avoid foods that contain them as additives as much as possible (and they really are everywhere).
I worked in an office where I eventually realized I got annoying to bad GI problems whenever I drank the water (won't describe in detail but very atypical and I at first wondered why it only happened when I was in the office), and someone else there once mentioned they had the same problem. I always used the office-services provided glasses to drink out of, and reading this it seems very likely it could have been residue on them
Might also be the result of shitty water treatment or softening, or even the state of the water source, water main and pipes in the building. Some water softening is done via agents like EDTA, which are also used heavily in soaps and detergents.
Yup. I once found out that I had been drinking water from a source that had mold growing all inside the water fountain's plumbing itself. It explained why I constantly felt like shit, given my mold allergy.
I had issues severe enough to visit a gastroenterologist, which turned out to be caused by a water filter that wasn't being changed. I stopped consuming water going through that filter, and all symptoms went away within a day or two. It was stunning.
Same where I grew up. The town regularly won awards for far surpassing all the drinking water standards, even the super strict totally voluntary standards they additionally attempted to meet and exceed.
Then I moved to Houston. After talking with some water treatment engineers, I only drink bottled water here. Was very hard to change my habits.
I don't know about the health side, but growing up on South Australian rain and tap water, I think the Sydney tap water tastes absolutely foul by comparison.
True story... Years ago, my friend (let's call her "Alice") and I put it together that whenever we went over to "Bob's" house for dinner we both got the runs. Finally, one of us mentioned it to Bob and he immediately blamed his wife: "I've told her," he said, "sometimes she doesn't wash the soap off the plates well enough." Something like that had never occurred to me. Sheer speculation, but it made some sense, as the dinners themselves were fairly basic.
There are so, so many cases like this with modern chemicals. Air fresheners in office bathrooms being another major “ghost” aggravation is another one.
In general I low-key proselytize the practice of removing excess stuff from air using HEPA and carbon filters to make a space smell better, rather than adding even more shit to the air (candles, scented sprays, etc). Also the benefits of using “free and clear” products. And using just water or water+soap with a rag to clean countertops/surfaces rather than weird chemical disinfectants that leave a microbial-toxic film of chemicals on the surfaces like Pledge.
I personally use marijuana-growing carbon scrubbers to clean my home air, see TerraBloom products. It’s made a massive difference for my family.
Stand-alone. I got two cylindrical carbon filters and one fan. I slide the three components together and then stand them up vertically like a floor standing speaker.
Currently living in an apartment. It scrubs the air really quite fast. Helps a lot with kitchen smoke, pet smells, cleaning chemical vapors, and new furniture/plastic VOCs.
I also live in the middle of a bunch of chemical plants so it’s invaluable for the 3-5 leak events we experience every week.
One of our cats has learned how to turn our HPA300 fan to “turbo mode” by bopping the correct button with his paw. This year he’s been an excellent early warning system for nearby chemical plant leaks and I’ve learned to blindly trust his judgment so I just turn the scrubber fan to 100% whenever the cat turns up our largest HEPA air filter.
- $3,000 (2022 prices): Siberian cat. Bought before recent price rises where the prices have apparently more than doubled, somewhat killing my dream of getting another Siberian kitten. Closely related to Maine Coon and Norwegian Forest Cat. Very very very playful and social. Enjoys playing friendly games of tackle with my Texas Heeler dog (50% Australian Cattle Dog, 50% Australian Shepherd), and often can be found entertaining itself throughout the day by training my dog. Naturally played fetch with plastic water bottle caps from a young age. Wants lots, and lots, and lots, of cuddles and play time. Our other Siberian, which was imported from Russia by American breeders, has had a very rough life and joined us late in her life. She has a very similar natural temperament. All three shed a truly totally insane amount of fur -- recommend Miele vacuums which are fully sealed with proper gaskets for maximum suction and minimum allergen leaking/spreading...Dyson strongly not recommended. He has had a lifelong fascination with dissecting electromechanical objects, especially air filters, and insists to supervise/assist with all maintenance work going on in the home. He learned that biting apple cables causes humans to stop using the laptop and destroyed $1,000 of laptop chargers when first generation MagSafe charges had non-detachable cables. Unlike his older sister, he has never had interest in killing/murdering animals, but enjoys removing all the legs from cockroaches and then playing fetch with himself by throwing the body around. Announces most of his poops with a loud meow and insists that the litter box be maintained daily. Enjoys training the humans, especially enjoys training the dog to get the humans to perform desired behaviors on his behalf. Contrary to marketing materials, neither Siberian is actually "hypoallergenic" in any sense of the word...maybe they're "less" allergenic but they still cause a lot of allergies and sheets/pillowcases need to be changed often.
I'd probably go 8" if I was buying today, I hedged a bit cheaper because I wasn't sure if the quality/performance would be what I needed.
> recommend Miele vacuums which are fully sealed with proper gaskets for maximum suction and minimum allergen leaking/spreading...Dyson strongly not recommended
There is actually, it’s called Rainbow Vacuum. They used to (maybe still do?) sell them door to door MLM style but the vacuum is actually good in my experience with them.
My mother has one of these, but I didn't know its name until now! I actually remember the salesman coming to our home and showing us how it works. It's still going strong ~25 years later. I'm currently using a Miele something, but I'm always a little weirded out by the fact I have to change vacuum bags, because when I grew up we would just flush the dust down the toilet after vacuuming.
Now that I know what my mother's vacuum is called I'm a little tempted to get one myself...
Funny thing as it pertains to this thread is the Rainbow salesmen used to sell an air freshener or early essential oil to add to the water. I can recall the smell perfectly now
Thanks for sharing your air filter setup. How large is the space you’re filtering with your setup and how many months do the Terrabloom filters last before you have to change them? Also where’s the HEPA component of the system? (Agree about Miele vacuums with a HEPA filter insert, which is supposed to be changed annually. Mieles also last forever with minor maintenance).
700 sq. Ft.
So far 9 months with the terrabloom and no noticeable degradation of filtration.
HEPA provided by 7 other filters, mostly Coways. Those need filters changed every 2 months.
Agree with Miele ease of maintenance, though they immediately stopped providing OEM parts (belts) for the uprights the day they discontinued them. They still sell the expensive bags for them though.
I would personally get the silenced fans in the largest diameter you can afford / fits in your desired space because it will move larger amounts of air more quietly. The apartment was 700 sq. ft. I got the silenced 6" and it's reasonably quiet at most speeds, and not that loud at the highest speed -- putting filters at both intake and outlet greatly reduced the noise vs. just one side.
If you get the filters and fans in the same diameter they will just slip together without any additional hardware. But it will be quite wobbly. I used velcro (monoprice, laying around for wire-taming) to secure it to a vertical bookshelf.
I'd probably go 8" if I was buying today, I hedged a bit cheaper because I wasn't sure if the quality/performance would be what I needed. This has been running for 9 months now with almost no noticeable degradation in performance, although I'm not currently quantifying it. Eventually I intend to install 3 VOC sensors, one outside the unit near the intake, one inside the unit, and one outside the unit at the outlet....to measure the VOC scrubbing efficiency curve over time and assist in deciding when to replace the carbon.
We've been running it 24 hours per day, usually about 40% but sometimes at the lowest setting (maybe 25%) and sometimes at the highest 100% setting.
After 9 months, it can still use it for point sources of concentrated smells like soldering and it captures 100% of the odors. And this is operating in a high-VOC environment near a lot (dozens) of chemical plants on our side of the city.
I've been running a similar setup next to my litter box for about 2 years using "Vivosun" products, which seem like a cheaper knockoff version of Terrabloom.
The Terrabloom stuff looks higher quality and I can't compare it directly to Vivosun, but I've got no complaints about my Vivosun duct fan or carbon filters. I'm not necessarily suggesting one brand over the other, but just to add that you can run a knockoff version of this setup for a lower cost.
I’m trying to picture the systems. They’re basically a carbon filter sandwiched by two fans, it runs the air through the filter and puts it back in the room? Or is it connected to a vent that exhausts the air outside (or does it filter one coming outside air?)
In my case, a fan sandwiched by two filters. Recirculates through room so filtration will follow the differential equation models for “CSTR’s”, which are Constantly Stirred Tank Reactors.
Very important. “Non-ducted” suction doesn’t have enough static pressure to pull air through a carbon filter, will pull the air around it instead. In electrical terms, this would be like feeding a power sink with a large gauge copper wire and a medium resistance resistor in parallel. 0.01% of the electricity will pull through the resistor, 99.9% will come through the bare copper wire.
the one major downside you'll find to terrabloom is how often you have to replace the carbon filters, but that's just true of carbon air filtering in general.
The insane thing is not your cat - cats are damn smart if they want to. The insane thing is that leak events happen multiple times a week and nothing seems to happen, or that residential zoning is right next to heavy industry in the first place. WTF?
I also constantly rant about the zoning thing. Even if you believe people should be allowed to live where they want, there should be more information provided to help dramatically lower the price of that housing but the apartments cost about the same as apartments in cleaner parts of the city 60 miles away.
I think I'm going to try this. A little concerned about the wobbly-ness of the vertical stack of all of these given the weight of the filters. Seems like all these systems are intended to be ceiling mounted to grow tents. Wish there was a nice metal frame that could be used to floor-mount this setup a little more elegantly.
I live in the middle of a lot of chemical plants. They have leaks constantly, like 3-5 moderate events per week.
Different chemicals cause disparate effects on my wife and I, but often manifests as anxiety, asthma, lethargy, general sense of being very uncomfortable.
Additionally we have two cats and a dog in a small apartment and sometimes they pee on the carpet/etc.
The carbon scrubber reduces the noticeable chemical plant effects down to just once a week, and greatly minimize that as well. Has completely eliminated stress caused by residual pet pee vapors.
We do have a bissell big green machine that we use regularly to clean the carpets and lots of HEPA air filters for dander, pollen, and other particulates.
But knocking out VOCs using a carbon scrubber has truly been wonderful. Works very very well whenever we get new furniture etc that offgasses for a week or so.
I use a similar setup just for near my cat litter box. Almost totally eliminates pet smell. I have an AC Infinity fan I really like, it's very quiet on the lowest 3 of 8 speeds. The filter is just some generic brand. I never want to own pets without this level of air filtration again.
No offense intended, but the best way to reduce any potential odors from your cat’s box is simply to pick it up regularly. Several times per day when my partner or I pass the box we scoop it and place the waste in a sealed bag in a sealed bucket. Takes 30 seconds. Never had issues with odors and the cats appreciate a clean box, just as any person appreciates a clean bathroom (more so for cats with their stronger sense of smell). And from time to time fully empty and wash down the box tray with soap. We’ve been shocked by how poorly many people maintain their cat boxes, which leads to the misconception that cats are smelly. They are incredibly clean animals, far cleaner than we humans. And we’ve been asked by some guests why our house doesn’t have that “pet/cat smell.” Empty the box regularly, you’ll be amazed by the results.
Counter point: I don’t eat raw uncooked mice nor lick my excrement shoot. Then again maybe it’s because I have unrefined country barn cats who are lacking culture.
I'm allergic to lemonenes ('citrus/orange smell'), the oil in the shell of citrus fruits. It's in everything. Deodorant, soap, detergent, various cleaners etc.
Every time there's some sort of "better smell" somewhere, where it's just "nice to have" I think: why? Why have this as well on top of everything?
We all gotta eat and doing something "meaningful" often seems like the worst possible way to try to keep a roof over your head. Doing something seemingly trivial that you imagine won't be controversial and that will be a "nice to have" for enough people to pay your own bills probably seems to some people like the best way to get by in this world.
And they probably didn't think anyone was allergic to something so seemingly trivial and didn't think it could be a big deal in that way.
Edit: I'm on your side if that's not clear. I spend a lot of time wondering how we solve this and my hypothesis is we first understand why this crap happens and I think "we all gotta eat" is, unfortunately, a root cause of a lot of ills in the world today and I don't know how we fix it.
> "we all gotta eat" is […] root cause of a lot of ills in the world today
hits the nail quite well I think. People are forced to generate income, even when that is to the detriment of other people or the environment. Natural resources are exploited without restraint, factories keep producing incompatible, low quality electronics and online services that harm mental health but create a profit are pushed onto markets with great vigor.
But with the advent of machines of human-level ability (physical & cognitive), within the next decade, human labour will not be competitive any more. This provides us a unique opportunity to overcome the traditional compulsions of our current growth-fixated economic framework and transition to a steady-state, cooperative economy (aka RBE) instead. That means leaving behind barter trade and local optimization for individual or company profit, paving the way to a good life for all, without time pressure and compulsory work.
We (Open Source Ecology Germany) are actually working on getting funding (via PrototypeFund.de) for a cooperative economy simulation game.. To make it easier for people to imagine a post-capitalist economy and to start working on rules and organisational mechanisms for such a society. HN is invited oc ; )
You can put stronger/commercial detergent in the pre-wash dispenser (or just dump it wherever before running) and then a small amount of castile soap + citric acid (or just citric acid) in the main dispenser.
I have a similar tale to tell. Ever since I've taken activated charcoal regularly, I have felt considerable improvement in my digestion and overall well-being. I feel happier, even. The charcoal is "sourced from non-GMO coconuts" which I don't necessarily believe but I take it as a sign that it's a higher quality product instead of repackaged industrial waste (like a lot of the market probably is).
I take 1000mg of activated charcoal per day and feel better. It is paradoxical, because all charcoal does is absorb. It makes me think that everything we put into our bodies nowadays is poison. And if all charcoal does is absorb, maybe most foods are a net negative. My interest in fasting has piqued as a result.
I think we are entering an era of rampant industrialization wherein the products (food, soaps, cookware coatings, packaging materials, etc.) are not necessarily the best products on the market, but simply cost effective enough to put on the shelves--meaning if waste can get on the shelf through clever marketing and engineering then it will.
Not directly related to the food products as your refer to them, but a couple of years ago there was the big Cradle-to-Cradle "Waste is Food" hype. Loved by many companies and governments. As a result in The Netherlands this whole paper bureaucracy appeared where through all kinds of tricks you can transform almost any waste back into 'building materials' that are good for the market again. In many cases waste processing became extra profitable. Companies get paid for waste removal at some industry, do the magic transformation tricks, and sell building material at premium price.
So waste = food = money literally without much processing, and effectively just waste = money. A process where waste conveniently disappears on paper only and is spread out over the lands without many people complaining. It is like waste processing of the 60's but way smarter.
My son has eczema and food allergies and I did a lot of research on actions we could take to help prevent the so called "atopic march" to hay fever and asthma. There's a lot of woo-woo stuff out there that I think can be safely ignored, but I did find what I consider strong evidence that families that hand wash their dishes have significantly lower incidence of some allergic symptoms. I thought it sounded weird and I didn't know what the mechanism could be but the evidence looked so strong that we stopped using our dishwasher. I guess this is one potential mechanism.
Gas stoves and ovens are the other thing we stopped using, with good justification I think.
As evidence for the claim that Gas range put out more PM2.5
But if you consult table 3 of that article you will see it doesn't show that at all. The food (especially frying) swamps differences between electric vs gas ranges, which themselves aren't even significant.
When we lived in houses with gas, some difficult to remove yellow residue formed on the outsides of all our stainless steel. We assumed it was cooking oil, but apparently, it was not. Our induction range completely eliminated that problem.
I wonder how much of the gunk is still in my lungs.
The real kicker is that most gas stoves leak. That residue might not have even been from USING the stove - it could have been from a very slow leak constantly coming out of the stove.
I took apart mine and completely greased all the fittings and put the proper type of teflon tape. Feel way better. Confirmed there are zero leaks now
Gas stoves exhaust right into the house. Besides raising the CO2 level, they produce CO, carbon monoxide, and smoke from whatever impurities come with the gas, that vary according to where it comes from. I doubt anybody bothers to get the radon out. That would cost money.
Propane is probably purer than straight-up NG, but it's exhaust is still exhaust.
radon decays into dust in a couple of days, but natural gas deposits are tens of millions of years old and have been out of touch with potential radon-generating rocks for weeks or months by the time they reach your stove burner
In a week or three, anyway. Anywhere somebody has bothered to liquify the NG, the radon will have decayed before it gets vaporized again. Where pipelines lead straight to gas wells, the dwell time in the pipeline before it is burnt could be quite short. But there might be negligible radon even at the wellhead, as it would need to be picked up from surrounding rock on the way out, unlike e.g. helium which accumulates.
Probably other toxins are more important: mercury vapor and hydrogen sulfide are usually mentioned. Hydrocarbons other than methane may burn to carbon monoxide or soot. Gas is said to get much less processing before delivery than it used to.
SpaceX will probably purify theirs before pumping it aboard, just to increase the useful life of their Raptor engines.
My home as a kid did. I don't know why it's fallen out of favor, since I can't imagine it costing more than $100 or so in parts and labor on a build... If we can have a bathroom vent, why not a cooking vent?
If the vent moves more than a certain amount of CFM air, then an exchange system is required, but that takes almost a restaurant grade vent to get to.
>There's a lot of woo-woo stuff out there that I think can be safely ignored, but I did find what I consider strong evidence that families that hand wash their dishes have significantly lower incidence of some allergic symptoms.
Yes, I believe there are studies that have found households that use detergents to wash their dishes have significantly high rates of allergies than households that only hand wash dishes. After hearing that, I started trying to try to avoid using detergent when possible. I think it makes a lot of sense-- really the majority of the powerful chemical detergents we use in the home are mostly unnecessary. They're just bound to leave residue that enters our bodies
So, pragmatically, we can’t not use our dishwasher - time is just not available given some other constraints. Given that, do you have any suggestions from your reading about less harmful detergent replacements?
Ok, so what do I use as a rinse aid then? I just dug all over amazon and pretty much everything has akoxylated alcohol or some form of polyoxypropylene laureth. And yes, I've purposely let the rinse aid run out just to see what happens. It wasn't pretty...
Anyway to make something more "natural"? Some other ingredients I've seen include citric acid, urea, trisodium phosphate. But not sure if just mixing those together would work out....
Did you not read what I wrote? Not sure what point you are making... I don't need to brush my hair, wear clothes, or wash my car either... But those are usually considered "proper" things to do. My first load without rinse aid resulted in spotty dishes. Not too bad, but annoying. By the third, it was worse. By the end of the week, all of the glassware was milky white and you could no longer see through it. You know that feeling you get when you run your finger nails across a chalkboard? Yea, we were getting that feeling by just running your hand across a glass plate.
I ended up buying more rinse aid and then running the milky dishes through a cycle with about a 1/4 cup of coffee machine cleaner (citric acid) thrown in.
Our water comes from a local lake and an underground aquifer surrounded in limestone if you are curious.
Install a whole home water filter so you're not washing your dishes in crap water anyways. I don't use rinse aids at all and my dishes come out spotless.
Plain 5% vinegar will be fine. It will smell funny if you open the door during the dry cycle. But it is safe, non-toxic, and will prevent mineral spots, and help rinse starch.
Those of you with chronic diarrhea, please look into bile malabsorption. Normally consumed by gut bacteria at the end of your small intestine, it can cause problems when it passes into the lower intestine. Bile sequestration medication, normally used to reduce cholesterol levels, can be used to remediate the symptoms.
I remember washing clothes at my aunts for some holiday, and started sneezing crazily sometime afterward. 12 year old cousins kid said “oh, you’re allergic to Tide”
derp. If it was toxic on my clothes, I wondered what I was eating.
People think I’m crazy to not have a dishwasher or microwave.
This is a fascinating topic because there is no practical way of knowing what food-related items (containers, utensils, washing up liquids) are safe to heat and what aren't. Indeed no one can track the makeup of everything in their kitchen that comes in contact with food.
Then there's the topic of items that are safe to use only in ideal conditions. Like Teflon in cookware that is said to be very safe unless it overheats, chips, or degrades in some way.
The more I think about this, the more it sounds like a blind spot for most people. So I'd like to know whether heated-up washing-up detergent/dishwasher detergent is associated with something unhealthy in a proven (or reasonable) way.
The plastics industry dodged the issue/controversy by eliminating BPA. While BPA is by far the worst endocrine disruptor, it is extremely likely that all the plastics that you are currently "safely" using contain endocrine disruptors.
You should be avoiding storing consumables in plastics as much as possible. At that point microwaves become perfectly safe.
419 comments
[ 3.9 ms ] story [ 304 ms ] threadMaybe you just worked with/for terrible people?
https://fivestarchemicals.com/star-san-sanitizer-32-oz
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodophor
I don't use rinse aid, never have, you don't actually need it, you can just let the dishes air dry for slightly longer.
If you have hard water then soften it, rather than use a rinse aid.
PS I have no chemical expertise, but the article singles out alcohol ethoxylates as the cause of this damage. And while I don't use rinse aid in my home dishwasher, my Cascade dishwasher pods list "Isotridecanol Ethoxylated" as an ingredient, which may be one of these substances? At least this gets rinsed off, though I doubt it gets rinsed completely.
Home dishwashers attempt to remove food residue with enzymes (also no soap).
It does not get rinsed off. The hope is that it drips off the dishes, but some will remain and then dry. Does this ingredient dry? I don't know.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethoxylation
(There are also sulfates that are aren't AES, such as sodium sulfate, which appears in many powdered dishwasher detergents. I doubt this has the same effect, so it's incorrect to just blame "sulfates".)
I think you need to learn the gloriously liberating feeling of admitting you were wrong.
many sulfates are not surfactants
none of the numerous meanings in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AES are in any way related to surfactants or sulfates
many sulfates and surfactants are not 'harmful' as generally understood (though there's probably a lethal dose of any of them)
why are you posting this misinformation here
why are you posting this egregious misinformation here
So basically do not dishwash plastic stuff.
It would be like my college apartment kitchen, so you could hire me as manager.
*you might die of other causes, though
> * Professional dishwasher rinse aid causes cellular cytotoxicity and directly impaired barrier integrity of gut epithelial cells by damaging TJ and AJ expressions in daily exposed concentrations. > * The underlying mechanisms of epithelial barrier disruption in response to rinse aid were cell death in 1:10,000 dilutions and epithelial barrier opening in 1:40,000 dilutions. > * The alcohol ethoxylates, an ingredient of the rinse aid that remains on washed dishware, caused the gut epithelial inflammation and barrier damage.
It appears to be the rinse aid when used in professional dishwashers utilized in restaurants, etc, due to high concentration of the rinse aid contaminating the "clean" dishes.
> In contrast, the residual substances on the cups washed in a household dishwasher with detergent B were not present at sufficiently high concentrations to exert cytotoxicity and impair the epithelial barrier function (see Fig E9).
Home detergent does contain AES (sulfates) but it gets rinsed pretty well. However if you use rinse aid, the rinse water itself has surfactants (AES, more sulfates), which will remain on the dishware- that’s the whole point actually, so the water beads off.
http://www.rbnainfo.com/MSDS/CA/FINISH%20-%20JET-DRY%20Rinse...
There's enough here to indicate a need for further investigation, but not enough data to come to any overall conclusions about commercial or household dishwasher safety in general.
Tangent: most papers seem to do that… which confuses me. It feels like it’s basically saying to discard everything the paper talked about because to be actually sure you’d need to investigate more than they did.
Is it a pro forma formula or does it really mean what I understand it to?
Besides the inherent fractal nature of how science works, there is also an incentive. Being a scientist in a solved field is not very smart. Or even more cynically the 'further work' section says 'please pay me to do these things next'.
But I think the cynical view is not as important here. Research tends to be strictly limited in time, and for good reason. During the research you will probably find new directions, and also get insight into what old questions are interesting, or what new methods matter. All of these are great cause to include a further work section.
They are notoriously bad at removing food residue, which must be sprayed or scraped off before running. Anything more than trace is cooked onto the dishes. They're really good at removing thin layers of grease quickly, and sanitizing. Doesn't surprise me at all that they don't do a final rinse; handling stuff right out of them leaves a distinct feeling on your fingers, like the opposite of bleach kinda. You have more friction than you should until they fully dry, it's very noticeable.
1. Rinse plates before putting them in crates
2. Slide the crates into the washing machine.
3. Close the machine to get it to perform a 3-stage cycle over 2 or 3 minutes: soap, sanitizer (usually some ammonium solution like in sanitizing tablets), then rinse.
I was able to taste bitterness after the rinse cycles and we were never in a rush, so I had the habit of re-rinsing the plates afterwards.
In restaurants I notice soap in my water or on the plate every now and then. It seems like most people don’t mind or notice. If you don’t feel the texture change or taste the bitterness of soap, you can see it by observing pearlescent colors on the surface of your drink.
Try and see if you have a B vitamin deficiency, it leads to slower regeneration of the lining.
I don't bother; I've tried it and haven't observed any effects.
I never use any, and my dishes are completely spotless. 30 years old dishwasher, super hard water.
Specifically, you should:
- always fill the salt of the dishwasher's water softener once it's empty. It cannot soften the water if it doesn't get cleaned by the salt. If the water is not softened you will get spots. EDIT: Apparently US folks often have dishwashers which don't soften the water. Ugh. In Europe I haven't even heard that such a thing exists! :|
- configure the dishwasher to your water hardness.
- do NOT use detergent which is advertised as "you won't need salt". This is garbage for lazy people. It cannot properly replace the water softener. Think about it for a moment: The detergent is meant to fully dissolve during washing so you won't have it on your dishes after the final water cycle. The only way it could affect the softness of the water in the final cycle is if it did NOT fully dissolve in time. So there are two factors to be optimized which contradict - stay long enough to soften the water, but not long enough to leave remainders on the dishes. It will never work properly.
- This is not related to rinse aid, but you should know it: Clean the sieve regularly, at least every week. It will get ultra nasty with gunk if you don't. If you have no time for cleaning it, buy a second one, switch them once one is dirty and put it among the dishes so the dishwasher washes it like a dish.
I've never heard of either of these things before. Certainly not things on my, relatively fancy, dishwasher.
The water hardness setting determines how much the water softener tries to soften the water.
If the water isn't soft enough, it will leave spots on the dishes. Hence people use "rinse aid", so the improperly softened water would drip off before it leaves spots.
If the water is properly softened it contains no calcium etc. which could cause spots on your dishes.
I wonder if its based on average water hardness in the area. I'm in the north of England and our supply comes out of Buxton Springs (yep the same as Buxton bottled water) and is extremly soft so despite filling the salt it never asks for it to be refilled again as its not needed.
When I used to live in north London I'd be filling it up once a month as the water there is extremely hard - so hard that it'll kill your kettle within a year if you don't keep on top of descaling.
I'm pretty sure the majority of dishwashers sold here have salt compartments - I've never seen one without one.
Much of Ireland has very hard water.
But I think most people here in the Netherlands never set it up correctly and go for “all in 1” tabs. I never do, always set it up correctly. I do feel I need rinse aid to not have that nasty feel to the glasses.
Just small differences in water treatment and quality.
I know a few people who have a single outlet for osmosis water, I use a optional water filter in the kitchen outlet for drinking water.
But nobody I know is softening their whole water supply. Why soften toilet water? Why soften cleaning water? Garden water?
Well for the last 2 I guess it depends on how hard it really is
Softening cleaning water means your clothes come out - well, quite literally softer. And last longer.
It’s a great idea, given most municipalities have hard water.
Is the salt for doing a softening process that substitutes for a whole house softener if you don't have one?
We live in a place with hard water and have no softener in the house (you should see our electric kettle when we haven't cleaned it recently). Recently the accumulation of what I assume to be mineral film has gotten a bit noticeable on the dishes that go in the dishwasher.
The dishwasher is also 30 years old. Miele G 680 SC from 1992. Living in New York. Perhaps adding salt was more common in older models.
You might not have paid attention to it because your didn't know about it, but I don't think there are any dishwashers in Belgium that don't use salt, at least for the last twenty years or so.
2) IIRC, that house had a whole house softener.
It's not common in the United States. Some all-in-one detergent packets might contain some amount of dishwasher salt, though.
Here's a nice map [1]
[1] https://homewater101.com/articles/hard-water-across-us
For a random location. Comparing the water hardness map with a population density map it seems that most are living in areas with soft water.
[0] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ion-exchange_resin
Beads prefer Mg over Na but Mg prefers Cl over beads. So you can recharge with salt brine.
Or it might just be a concentration thing where Na / Mg ratio wants to be the same in the brine and beads. So you just give a really strong brine and most of the Mg etc leaves the beads.
The exchange of the ions is driven be the difference in concentration between water and resin surface. It works both ways, but Ca²⁺ is preferred (=stronger bonds) by the binding groups (e.g. carboxylate salts). That's why a concentrated Na⁺-brine is needed to flush out the calcium ions.
If US folks are looking for this feature, it can be found on higher end Bosch dishwashers in the US.
I have very hard water and a Bosch benchmark series. The water softener makes a huge difference. I don't want a whole-house softener because I don't enjoy the feel of softened water in the shower.
We now have a Bosch dishwasher in another house in NY state. The water is not hard (it's from one of the Finger Lakes), and the dishwasher does not have a softener, but we like the brand. After reading this story we looked up how to tweak the rinse aid dispenser and turned it down from "5" to "1".
I actually do have a whole-house softener which came with my house. I installed a bypass valve so it does not feed the pipes in my home.
(Aside, and I don't know if they are still any good, but these dish drawers are really well engineered. Mine had some problems early on that were resolved by small changes in the design, but FP provided me the parts to retrofit my washers. They've been nearly trouble free since then.)
I was looking for a fridge-freezer specifically, considered Haier but went with Liebherr in the end - I like that (in terms of white goods/kitchen appliances) it only makes refrigeration units, other than where you use them there's nothing tying them together in why a manufacturer would be good at making them all really, makes sense to specialise in refrigeration, or dish washing, or gas products or whatever IMO.
According to the user guide, a water softener is recommended if your municipal water hardness is >250ppm which would be quite hard for municipal tap water.
In my region of central Florida the city’s water quality report shows a hardness well below 250ppm, Which you can divide by 17.1 to determine how many grains of salt to take that with.
[0] https://www.fisherpaykel.com/us/dishwashing/all-dishwashers/
rinse aid is for hard water. restaurants probably tend to not treat the water and the commercial dishwashers they use probably tend to not have a provision for salt. they operate very differently than your residential dishwasher.
So yes, completely unneeded if you have soft water. Most dishwashers don't have a provision for salt.
Also completely unneeded if you don't mind spots.
I've only come across this in Spain so far. Never seen in Norway. But maybe I just haven't been paying attention. Then again, the water in Norway in :chefskiss:
This is the real key, modern dishwashers have so many limitations in an attempt to reduce water and power usage they do an awful job. I wish there was more information on how to disable these features.
You probably confused them with ethoxysulfates, which are a related but different class of chemicals.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethoxylation
The harm done by EAS was previously established by these same researchers and referenced in the paper: "Our recent studies have demonstrated that exposure to anionic surfactants in laundry detergents impairs the epithelial barrier functions in human skin and bronchial epithelial cells even at very high dilutions."
"Anionic surfactants" AKA sulfates, sulfonates, phosphates.
The EA are nonionic, by comparison, but do the same damage to the gut or any other part of the epithelium.
https://www.ipcol.com/wp-content/uploads/SURFACTANT-TYPES.jp...
better robotics tech can reduce chemical use by:
1. spot application of sponge in place of general application of chemicals
2. more targeted application of chemicals (only when + where needed)
3. replacing poison for pest / weed elimination with smart mobile traps (have seen laser POCs for both bugs + weeds)
4. cleaning materials for recycling using targeted friction instead of soap. separating oil and food scraps from drain water. separating human waste from gray water (and selling the nitrates)
even for something innocuous like brushing your teeth, a robot can use advanced sensing to modify the dose of fluoride
feels like lots of 'bits to atoms' projects here for someone who enjoys garbage
White vinegar is a very different product: it is not a surfactant, it is an acid. It means that it doesn't help rinsing, but it can remove scale. Both can prevent white stains, but the mechanism is very different.
If it works just as well, why don't dishwasher manufacturers use acids instead of rinse aid? You can argue that white vinegar is cheap and they they prefer you use expensive detergents so that they can make profit, but they could also sell you expensive acids, so I don't think it is the reason.
So what to do with it? Personally, I still use rinse aid because it is what the manufacturer recommends, and I have no better idea. It is not a significant expense, and according to the study, not as much as a problem with household dishwashers as it is with professional dishwashers (very different machines using different products).
I tried many different detergents but never found one which didn't cause problems, so I've just continued to run an extra cycle. My GI doctor didn't really believe me when I told him. I wonder how many people are having their IBS/IBD symptoms exasperated by detergent residue left on their dishes.
I'm not sure if this will turn out to be quackery or snake oil, but the Super Gut book by William Davis makes some believable claims as to common causes of digest issues (along with solutions).
The key I found was at about the 2 month mark things seemed to be getting worse, but after that a dramatic improvement. I was able to stop the supplements after the 3 month pack, though 6 months on there was some regression so I'm taking another round (which seems to have improved things).
It might not be possible for whatever reason to sustain the culture in my intestine, but it's been the first actual improvement I've had in decades.
Available as BioGaia, I recommend trying it if you have IBS symptoms.
The first stage of resetting, as described in the book, was to rebuild the lining of the intestine. Forgive my imprecision in describing it, as I have forgotten the details and don't feel like digging. The issue is that many of our foods are made with emulsifiers (baked goods, ice creams, etc.), and emulsifiers cause thinning of the intestine walls. That in turn creates a less than optimal environment, causing losses of good bacteria as well as increases/movements of bad bacteria.
Fortunately that first stage is pretty easy - making clove tea with a couple other ingredients daily. I actually found it pleasant after the first few days. And then I read about clove tea and discovered that it's already a big thing, but where I grew up we've never heard of it!
B. I recently switched to a more “natural” SevenGenerations pouch and holy crap it’s been excellent.
C. You can not buy anything but pods at two of my grocery stores. You need to go to Walmart near me to find any straight powder. Market has spoken right or wrong.
You're going to kill some poor soul trying to clean all the baked-in francium and lions off their crockery.
Shame on you.
The pouches are still pointless.
We switched and it almost completely solved our "dishes not getting cleaned properly" problem.
Switching to powder has done a lot for us in getting dishes cleaner, and we can dial in the amount of powder needed for the particular soil level of a load.
The fact that it's cheaper per load, and the box fits more neatly under the sink are added benefits.
I call BS on this. The non-pouch detergents disappeared, that much I know. I strongly doubt people had stopped buying gel and powder. I suspect that some bright bulb at Johnson & Johnson or wherever did the math and realized that pouch margins were higher than gel and powder margins.
Fixed serving sizes force over-use. Lots of included water means extra volume and weight (perceived value) on the shelf. While powders allow measured use, and reduce turnover.
I buy 20lb boxes of cheap powder and they last for months. Hot water just doesn’t need that much help if you put some in the pre-wash too.
...is this a commercial kitchen? 20lb is like two loads a day for a year.
1. Burning the color of clothes.
2. Irritating the skin (hand-was was very common, it still has some use cases even today).
Also there was a move around 2003-2004 to increase the concentration of automatic washer detergents, that was meant to decrease the transportation cost for manufacturers, but overuse was even riskier. I know it was done, somewhere before 2005 when I left that area of business, part of the solution was a big marketing campaign, another part was switching to liquid detergent with a measuring cup, also including a measuring cup in the package with the larger sizes. I don't know what happened later.
? I still see them everywhere. And a quick Amazon search for “cascade complete” lists gel as the first result and powder as the third.
Powder is better. Pods are just powder.
Can also help to run/prime your hot water tap before starting cycle to start off with hot water (in places where it’s hooked up to hot).
Citrus acid does "WONDER" in shorten lifespan of rubber/plastic seals.
Apparently, energy efficient dishwashers have an energy budget per cycle and will only put a fixed amount into heating water, so getting hotter water into the dishwasher makes a huge difference in performance.
I would wonder if that happens in the gut too.
It is in many things. toothpaste, shampoo, dishwasher and laundry detergents, and lots more
Since people are trying to avoid SLS, MANY tricky marketing synonyms have appeared to obfuscate ingredient lists:
https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/151-21-3
this seems to be almost the definition of evil
people are trying to avoid something specific that makes them ill, so they try to hide it from them instead?
scum
it's a surfactant
surfactants emulsify lipids in polar liquids like water
such emulsification is crucial to many kinds of cleaning
because cell membranes are lipid bilayers surfactants also can cause cytolysis, maybe relevant if you're trying to get bacterial films off your teeth, and sds is commonly used for this in bio labs
surfactants also often foam but this is irrelevant
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_dodecyl_sulfate
i'd like to see one of those statisticians save an abscessed motherfucking molar though
anyway your dentist is probably not actually being bribed by tom's of maine, he just knows a lot of his patients had less canker sores when they stopped using toothpaste with dish detergent in it
because guess what else has cell membranes
https://www.epa.gov/saferchoice/safer-ingredients#searchList
Just seeing that makes me want to switch toothpaste. There looks to be an 'Oral B Toothpaste Pure' that doesn't have SLS or colourants, might give that a go.
Here's a non-paywalled copy of that same article.
I’m trying a SLS-free toothpaste now from a local company (again Australian) called Grant’s, but they only have one with fluoride, which has a bit of an intense flavour. But it’s OK. They do seem to have a US distributor but I don’t know if it’s available anywhere over there. Sensodyne as the other commenter mentioned does have SLS free toothpastes but I wanted to avoid some of the other things in it (not that there’s strong evidence against their use, but one ingredient, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, is just a potential irritant, I wanted to avoid the sweetness, and the EU has stopped allowing titanium dioxide in food).
I cut out SLS by purchasing Toms toothpaste, and that helped a lot.
I would still get them though, maybe twice a year.
The thing that finally fixed it was almonds. I stopped eating almonds and I’ve never had a canker sore since.
I have some amount of uncooked nut allergy and chocolate allergy that causes similar effects to SLS toothpaste. I'm still trying to figure it out.
I wanted to pass along this product I found a few years ago that really changed the game for me though, check out "Durham's Bee Farm, Inc. Canker-Rid."
This has been a problem for me since I was a kid, and all we had back then was Campho-Phenique and pain killing gels. Those things were / are awful. This bee stuff is absolutely amazing. 10/10 check it out.
Hardly ever get them anymore since when it was a weekly occurrence before.
There aren’t many SLS free toothpastes. In Europe I found Elmex and in the Americas Sensodyne (not all, check ingredients)
Things I've found that cause them:
- Pineapple
- Lemon/Lime juice
- Chilli
- Sometimes Chocolate
Things that prevent/reduce them:
B6/B12/Folate
Dawn is my favorite dishwashing liquid of all times, SLS seems to be the first active ingredient[1]. What should I use instead?
[1] https://dawn-dish.com/en-us/how-to/what-dawn-is-made-of-ingr...
Tap water in Sydney and most of Australia is excellent.
Then I moved to Houston. After talking with some water treatment engineers, I only drink bottled water here. Was very hard to change my habits.
Kindly elaborate! I live here, too.
In general I low-key proselytize the practice of removing excess stuff from air using HEPA and carbon filters to make a space smell better, rather than adding even more shit to the air (candles, scented sprays, etc). Also the benefits of using “free and clear” products. And using just water or water+soap with a rag to clean countertops/surfaces rather than weird chemical disinfectants that leave a microbial-toxic film of chemicals on the surfaces like Pledge.
I personally use marijuana-growing carbon scrubbers to clean my home air, see TerraBloom products. It’s made a massive difference for my family.
Currently living in an apartment. It scrubs the air really quite fast. Helps a lot with kitchen smoke, pet smells, cleaning chemical vapors, and new furniture/plastic VOCs.
I also live in the middle of a bunch of chemical plants so it’s invaluable for the 3-5 leak events we experience every week.
One of our cats has learned how to turn our HPA300 fan to “turbo mode” by bopping the correct button with his paw. This year he’s been an excellent early warning system for nearby chemical plant leaks and I’ve learned to blindly trust his judgment so I just turn the scrubber fan to 100% whenever the cat turns up our largest HEPA air filter.
I recognize this sounds insane.
- $199: TerraBloom 6" Silenced EC Inline Duct Fan, ECMF-150-S, 288 CFM, 36W
- $114: TERRABLOOM 6" AIR FILTER 24" LONG, 1.8" (46MM) THICK,
- $80: TERRABLOOM 6" AIR FILTER 16" LONG, 1.8" (46MM) THICK
- $3,000 (2022 prices): Siberian cat. Bought before recent price rises where the prices have apparently more than doubled, somewhat killing my dream of getting another Siberian kitten. Closely related to Maine Coon and Norwegian Forest Cat. Very very very playful and social. Enjoys playing friendly games of tackle with my Texas Heeler dog (50% Australian Cattle Dog, 50% Australian Shepherd), and often can be found entertaining itself throughout the day by training my dog. Naturally played fetch with plastic water bottle caps from a young age. Wants lots, and lots, and lots, of cuddles and play time. Our other Siberian, which was imported from Russia by American breeders, has had a very rough life and joined us late in her life. She has a very similar natural temperament. All three shed a truly totally insane amount of fur -- recommend Miele vacuums which are fully sealed with proper gaskets for maximum suction and minimum allergen leaking/spreading...Dyson strongly not recommended. He has had a lifelong fascination with dissecting electromechanical objects, especially air filters, and insists to supervise/assist with all maintenance work going on in the home. He learned that biting apple cables causes humans to stop using the laptop and destroyed $1,000 of laptop chargers when first generation MagSafe charges had non-detachable cables. Unlike his older sister, he has never had interest in killing/murdering animals, but enjoys removing all the legs from cockroaches and then playing fetch with himself by throwing the body around. Announces most of his poops with a loud meow and insists that the litter box be maintained daily. Enjoys training the humans, especially enjoys training the dog to get the humans to perform desired behaviors on his behalf. Contrary to marketing materials, neither Siberian is actually "hypoallergenic" in any sense of the word...maybe they're "less" allergenic but they still cause a lot of allergies and sheets/pillowcases need to be changed often.
I'd probably go 8" if I was buying today, I hedged a bit cheaper because I wasn't sure if the quality/performance would be what I needed.
Have you tried a water vaccuum? :)
Still, if you’re looking for that, edibles and temperature-controlled vaporizers are way to go.
Now that I know what my mother's vacuum is called I'm a little tempted to get one myself...
Agree with Miele ease of maintenance, though they immediately stopped providing OEM parts (belts) for the uprights the day they discontinued them. They still sell the expensive bags for them though.
If you get the filters and fans in the same diameter they will just slip together without any additional hardware. But it will be quite wobbly. I used velcro (monoprice, laying around for wire-taming) to secure it to a vertical bookshelf.
My BOM: - $199: TerraBloom 6" Silenced EC Inline Duct Fan, ECMF-150-S, 288 CFM, 36W
- $114: TERRABLOOM 6" AIR FILTER 24" LONG, 1.8" (46MM) THICK,
- $80: TERRABLOOM 6" AIR FILTER 16" LONG, 1.8" (46MM) THICK
I'd probably go 8" if I was buying today, I hedged a bit cheaper because I wasn't sure if the quality/performance would be what I needed. This has been running for 9 months now with almost no noticeable degradation in performance, although I'm not currently quantifying it. Eventually I intend to install 3 VOC sensors, one outside the unit near the intake, one inside the unit, and one outside the unit at the outlet....to measure the VOC scrubbing efficiency curve over time and assist in deciding when to replace the carbon.
We've been running it 24 hours per day, usually about 40% but sometimes at the lowest setting (maybe 25%) and sometimes at the highest 100% setting.
After 9 months, it can still use it for point sources of concentrated smells like soldering and it captures 100% of the odors. And this is operating in a high-VOC environment near a lot (dozens) of chemical plants on our side of the city.
The Terrabloom stuff looks higher quality and I can't compare it directly to Vivosun, but I've got no complaints about my Vivosun duct fan or carbon filters. I'm not necessarily suggesting one brand over the other, but just to add that you can run a knockoff version of this setup for a lower cost.
How important do you think the external fan is? (versus just placing it next to the modest airflow of a HEPA filter, as a sibling commenter suggested)
The insane thing is not your cat - cats are damn smart if they want to. The insane thing is that leak events happen multiple times a week and nothing seems to happen, or that residential zoning is right next to heavy industry in the first place. WTF?
I also constantly rant about the zoning thing. Even if you believe people should be allowed to live where they want, there should be more information provided to help dramatically lower the price of that housing but the apartments cost about the same as apartments in cleaner parts of the city 60 miles away.
Can you describe the massive difference it’s made for family?
Different chemicals cause disparate effects on my wife and I, but often manifests as anxiety, asthma, lethargy, general sense of being very uncomfortable.
Additionally we have two cats and a dog in a small apartment and sometimes they pee on the carpet/etc.
The carbon scrubber reduces the noticeable chemical plant effects down to just once a week, and greatly minimize that as well. Has completely eliminated stress caused by residual pet pee vapors.
We do have a bissell big green machine that we use regularly to clean the carpets and lots of HEPA air filters for dander, pollen, and other particulates.
But knocking out VOCs using a carbon scrubber has truly been wonderful. Works very very well whenever we get new furniture etc that offgasses for a week or so.
Would you mind expanding on that?
Every time there's some sort of "better smell" somewhere, where it's just "nice to have" I think: why? Why have this as well on top of everything?
We all gotta eat and doing something "meaningful" often seems like the worst possible way to try to keep a roof over your head. Doing something seemingly trivial that you imagine won't be controversial and that will be a "nice to have" for enough people to pay your own bills probably seems to some people like the best way to get by in this world.
And they probably didn't think anyone was allergic to something so seemingly trivial and didn't think it could be a big deal in that way.
Edit: I'm on your side if that's not clear. I spend a lot of time wondering how we solve this and my hypothesis is we first understand why this crap happens and I think "we all gotta eat" is, unfortunately, a root cause of a lot of ills in the world today and I don't know how we fix it.
> "we all gotta eat" is […] root cause of a lot of ills in the world today
hits the nail quite well I think. People are forced to generate income, even when that is to the detriment of other people or the environment. Natural resources are exploited without restraint, factories keep producing incompatible, low quality electronics and online services that harm mental health but create a profit are pushed onto markets with great vigor.
But with the advent of machines of human-level ability (physical & cognitive), within the next decade, human labour will not be competitive any more. This provides us a unique opportunity to overcome the traditional compulsions of our current growth-fixated economic framework and transition to a steady-state, cooperative economy (aka RBE) instead. That means leaving behind barter trade and local optimization for individual or company profit, paving the way to a good life for all, without time pressure and compulsory work. We (Open Source Ecology Germany) are actually working on getting funding (via PrototypeFund.de) for a cooperative economy simulation game.. To make it easier for people to imagine a post-capitalist economy and to start working on rules and organisational mechanisms for such a society. HN is invited oc ; )
There's a lot of commonly used chemicals that are irritants and disrupt how the body works, but are underneath the threshold of toxicity.
I take 1000mg of activated charcoal per day and feel better. It is paradoxical, because all charcoal does is absorb. It makes me think that everything we put into our bodies nowadays is poison. And if all charcoal does is absorb, maybe most foods are a net negative. My interest in fasting has piqued as a result.
I think we are entering an era of rampant industrialization wherein the products (food, soaps, cookware coatings, packaging materials, etc.) are not necessarily the best products on the market, but simply cost effective enough to put on the shelves--meaning if waste can get on the shelf through clever marketing and engineering then it will.
So waste = food = money literally without much processing, and effectively just waste = money. A process where waste conveniently disappears on paper only and is spread out over the lands without many people complaining. It is like waste processing of the 60's but way smarter.
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/sep/19/us-state...
Also, if you drink it, you will certainly die.
https://www.cdc.gov/drowning/facts/index.html
I always sanitized my baby’s bottles, either via boiling water or via sanitizing steam bag.
But also, yes rinse them after washing them, also use a baby bottle detergent instead of "full strength" or whatever.
And then sterilise them.
Gas stoves and ovens are the other thing we stopped using, with good justification I think.
Most people keyed into this from the Vox article:
https://www.vox.com/energy-and-environment/2020/5/7/21247602...
Which links to:
https://www.osti.gov/biblio/1172959
As evidence for the claim that Gas range put out more PM2.5
But if you consult table 3 of that article you will see it doesn't show that at all. The food (especially frying) swamps differences between electric vs gas ranges, which themselves aren't even significant.
I wonder how much of the gunk is still in my lungs.
I took apart mine and completely greased all the fittings and put the proper type of teflon tape. Feel way better. Confirmed there are zero leaks now
Propane is probably purer than straight-up NG, but it's exhaust is still exhaust.
getting radon out does not cost money
Probably other toxins are more important: mercury vapor and hydrogen sulfide are usually mentioned. Hydrocarbons other than methane may burn to carbon monoxide or soot. Gas is said to get much less processing before delivery than it used to.
SpaceX will probably purify theirs before pumping it aboard, just to increase the useful life of their Raptor engines.
Best case you have a hood that vents to the outside. Hoods really work
If the vent moves more than a certain amount of CFM air, then an exchange system is required, but that takes almost a restaurant grade vent to get to.
Yes, I believe there are studies that have found households that use detergents to wash their dishes have significantly high rates of allergies than households that only hand wash dishes. After hearing that, I started trying to try to avoid using detergent when possible. I think it makes a lot of sense-- really the majority of the powerful chemical detergents we use in the home are mostly unnecessary. They're just bound to leave residue that enters our bodies
I ended up buying more rinse aid and then running the milky dishes through a cycle with about a 1/4 cup of coffee machine cleaner (citric acid) thrown in.
Our water comes from a local lake and an underground aquifer surrounded in limestone if you are curious.
Citric acid [1]
1 - https://www.thespruce.com/homemade-dishwasher-rinse-aid-1388...
https://www.southernliving.com/home/organization/dishwasher-...
IANAD, but it worked for me.
derp. If it was toxic on my clothes, I wondered what I was eating.
People think I’m crazy to not have a dishwasher or microwave.
Not to mention a burrito wrapped in plastic…
You are what you eat.
So... what happens?
Then there's the topic of items that are safe to use only in ideal conditions. Like Teflon in cookware that is said to be very safe unless it overheats, chips, or degrades in some way.
The more I think about this, the more it sounds like a blind spot for most people. So I'd like to know whether heated-up washing-up detergent/dishwasher detergent is associated with something unhealthy in a proven (or reasonable) way.
You should be avoiding storing consumables in plastics as much as possible. At that point microwaves become perfectly safe.